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10-24-2006 06:29 PM  11 years agoPost 1
fyrfighter358

rrNovice

columbus, Oh

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Here is my problem. I have a vibration in my head from 0-1/2 throttle. I am running a bcp, 1320 ma lipo, aluminum swash, carbon fiber blades. here is what I have done so far. rebalanced the blades. replaced the grips, feathering shaft. replaced the pitch linkage, verified the blade angle in idle up. at idle up throttle centered blade angle -.5 best i can get. I am getting a little frustrated. I have been working this problem for a week. I figure my next step is to replace the entire head assy. any help would be appreiciated. Also with my blades off my heli has no vibration at all throttle ranges. Still new and still frustrated

Avionics makes a pilots job obsloete

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10-24-2006 06:49 PM  11 years agoPost 2
slider46

rrProfessor

Ocala Florida

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You need to find out what is keeping you from getting 0* at mid throttle first before you can fix anything else... Are all the servo arms level, if so then you can adjust the servo rods til you get to 0*pitch at 1/2 throttle in idle up.

Tom..... No "D" flying....

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10-24-2006 11:36 PM  11 years agoPost 3
Gino CP

rrKey Veteran

Philippines

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Check the main shaft and spindle. Most likely the spindle. You can't see a minor bend but that messes up balance. Same with tracking. And even with new parts, check for trueness.

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10-25-2006 12:28 AM  11 years agoPost 4
BLADE CP GUY

rrApprentice

Houston, Texas- USA

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To save you money more and time, and FLy more
Change your spindles every two hard rashes if you see some wiggles, if not then it's ok... IT might be also your main shafts...main shafts are week a single mini, bitty, small blade strikes can bend a main shafts so when that happens and you can see wiggles in your head then dont waste your time, buy a new main shaft or to save money you can straighten it out by rolling it in flat surface and hammer it back...(but a little wiggle will always be present if you do that repair...)
HOpe it can help and GOOD FLYING

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10-25-2006 12:39 AM  11 years agoPost 5
futuramille

rrVeteran

SC USA

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Good advice BCPguy!!!

If I might add....if it smooths out after half and makes a good flight than fly it. Re-using that main shaft is great for keeping the battery's cycling. Like said, there is a bit vib no matter how hard you work to get that shaft straight. I've straightened mine the last 7 times by simply removing the head and bending it straight on the heli. the bend happens most often (on mine) at the top main bearing. but there is also a bend at the bottom of the swash position when it hit. straighten the bend at the swash first and then the bearing or you will end up with a twist in the main shaft.



------------------------------
.....I need more batteries!!!

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10-25-2006 01:39 AM  11 years agoPost 6
gmcullan

rrKey Veteran

Southbridge, MA

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You might also want to check the number of shim washers that you have between the rotor hub and the blade grips. You can have every thing balanced and straight, and if the spindle is not centered and secure, it will shake like a son of a gun.

Gerry Cullan,
Gaui 200, 255; T-Rex 250, 450 SE & SA, Mini-Titan, Blade 450

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10-25-2006 05:43 AM  11 years agoPost 7
SilverWings

rrNovice

Oklahoma City, OK

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Blade Tracking
is critical on these micro birds.

My CP Pro will toilet-bowl at 1/2 stick with the blades out of track only 1/8" in a hover. That equates to only a HALF TURN on a pitch link to correct the tracking problem. With the blades tracked she's smooth as a digital watch.

The difference between accurately tracked blades and being a hare out is amazing! Check the tracking closely!

No Bucks, no Buck Rogers

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10-25-2006 02:36 PM  11 years agoPost 8
snobdrs

rrVeteran

coatesville,pa-usa

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Rplace the main shaft. Dont even bother straightning them. Its hard to get them perfect, usually the pin hole opens up, their only 5 bucks. Also when you try to bend the shaft against the bearings you are destroying the bearing, take you main shaft out and feel the bearing. if its crunchy or has flat spots.....

Support your local hobby shop

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10-25-2006 08:37 PM  11 years agoPost 9
fyrfighter358

rrNovice

columbus, Oh

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2 days and getting ready to throw
thanks for all the advice. For the last 2 days I have been fighting this problem. I totally replaced everything from the main shaft up including all three servo's. Thank fully i keep a spare part for everything. Guess what still vibrating!!! I want to throw this heli. I come home from work in the morning and have been up till 4 screwing with it. Obviously i am overlooking something but as a ametuer i can not find it. i did read a post to check the number of shims. I have 2 between the spindle and the grips along with the beARING WASHER TURNED THE CORRECT WAY, dimple towards the bearing. the only cost so far i have suffered is 2 servo's. Need some expert help (thats why i am here.) Is there any body that lives in the columbus ohio area that can give me some help. again tomorrow after work will be back at it. want to quit so bad but af a aircraft mechanic i will not let it get the best of me.. Hope for some more good advice.

Avionics makes a pilots job obsloete

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10-25-2006 09:22 PM  11 years agoPost 10
Funky Trex

rrElite Veteran

Westerville, OH - USA

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I am from Columbus, Ohio. Where do you live/work? I work off Polaris Parkway right across from Polaris mall. I live in Westerville. I have rebuilt my Blade Pro more times than I can count. I can probably help you out.

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10-25-2006 10:25 PM  11 years agoPost 11
Gino CP

rrKey Veteran

Philippines

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If you've got a new main shaft and spindles then proceed with the ff:

1) Align blade angles. Blade grip line must align with blade grip screw and the blade flush screw.

2) Adjust pitch so the when viewed from the side, each blade is at zero degrees.

3) Adjust tracking. Weigh down heli and run throttle to hovering speeds. See if one blade is higher than the other. Turn pitch control link of low blade half a turn so that pitch increases. Then bench test again. Do so until they track true or near true.

4) Check fly bar if it is straight. Bend or replace if bent. Makes sure gaps between paddle control frame collar and paddle weights are the same for boths sides.

5) Set paddles to align with the paddle control frame. Or parallel with swash plate from the side or front.

If you still have vibration and had sustained blades damage, you may need to repair or replace your blades. Then balance them with tape.

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10-26-2006 03:56 PM  11 years agoPost 12
fyrfighter358

rrNovice

columbus, Oh

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made some pogress
Here is some more info. While on day three I found I was using esk blade grips. My heli did not like them. Went to my parts storage and got a set of e-flight grips. Now here is where I found something. I noticed that the e-flight blade grips that the bearing seat on the blade part of the grip was recessed further than the other grip. Which in turn was bushing my bearing out towards the hub. Put a brand new set of grips on and tried it again and found the vibration was still there. Then I noticed that no matter how tight I tightened the grips that there was a lot of space between the spindle and the grips. As a matter of fact the o-rings worked themselves out of the spindle. I added a second o ring between the grips and the spindle and the vibration is now gone (so I think) Can anyone tell me why there would be so mouch of a gap that I needed to add a second oring?

Funky Trex I would like to meet up with you and go over my heli. As I said I am still new and still learning. I jumped into this hobby with no one to help. Learned what little I know by trial and error (a lot of $$$$$$). Please email me at fyrfighter358@cs.com I work Monday - thurs 3rd shift.

Avionics makes a pilots job obsloete

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10-26-2006 04:34 PM  11 years agoPost 13
Funky Trex

rrElite Veteran

Westerville, OH - USA

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I had the same problem with the head being too loose. It would hover well, but not very responsive to input. I would usually have one O-ring that would stay in and the other o-ring would come out. This would offset my grips and cause vibes. Most people are using the shim kit to tighten up the heads... usually all of them that come in the pack split between the 2 sides. I got sick of all of the stepped brearing/shim setup so I just replaced the stepped washer and shims with a trex spacer.... same one for the trex head. It seems to take up enough of the slack to tighten up the head, but not too tight that is causes vibes. Which head are you running? Is it bell-hiller or stock BCP head? My only experience is with the Bell Hiller head from the pro so I can't say for sure if this idea would work on yours if it is not the same head. I used to run 2 o-rings as well before the shims or rex spacer, but the outer o-rings wore out quickly and split leaving a sloppy head again.

I'll send you an email shortly if you want to get together and go over it.

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10-26-2006 11:46 PM  11 years agoPost 14
gmcullan

rrKey Veteran

Southbridge, MA

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Your solution goes back to my suggestion to make sure that you have equal spacing between both blade grips and the rotor hub. I initially used a second set of "O" rings as you did, but found the control response to be too "soft". I ended up using three shims per side so as to center the assembly and to increase control response. Be carefull, as making the spindle response too stiff will cause the tail to bob up and down in sync with the main rotor rotation.

Gerry Cullan,
Gaui 200, 255; T-Rex 250, 450 SE & SA, Mini-Titan, Blade 450

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10-27-2006 01:45 AM  11 years agoPost 15
fyrfighter358

rrNovice

columbus, Oh

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thank you
thank you for all your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Avionics makes a pilots job obsloete

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10-27-2006 02:04 AM  11 years agoPost 16
DoubleTap

rrApprentice

Troy, Michigan - USA

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Don't forget the center hub
Hi,
I had a head vibration that wouldn't go away on a BCPpro after a blade strike. I had replaced the spindle, main shaft, boom, blades, aligned everything, tracked he blades... and that didn't do it.

Close inspection of the plastic center hub revealed that the hole the main shaft goes into wasn't round any more. It had stretched out just a bit. It still felt like it fit nice and tight but it was off just enough to cause the shake. That explains why E-flite sells the spindle and center hub in the same spare parts bag!

Replaced the hub, shake gone, things are good.

You have probably tried this since you say you replaced everything. I thought I would mention it just in case.

Good luck

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10-27-2006 06:02 AM  11 years agoPost 17
fyrfighter358

rrNovice

columbus, Oh

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Changed the hub also yesterday thank you

Avionics makes a pilots job obsloete

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10-27-2006 07:30 AM  11 years agoPost 18
Gino CP

rrKey Veteran

Philippines

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...and how was it?

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10-27-2006 01:35 PM  11 years agoPost 19
fyrfighter358

rrNovice

columbus, Oh

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the hub was worn out. after six months of constant blade stricks and being beaten to death by me it had served its time

Avionics makes a pilots job obsloete

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10-27-2006 02:09 PM  11 years agoPost 20
whodaguy

rrApprentice

Saskatoon, SK - Canada

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I have read this thread with interest. Here's some thoughts.
I fly the CPB with CF blades and an 1120 LiPo pack single tail motor just out of the box. I can go inverted and do loops and rolls. IMHO I can only say that it is in the setup.

I use the 3 bearing blade grips and shims as the book says. My experience is that after many flights some things need to be checked and changed. My experience is that the feathering shaft tends to "warp" a bit and needs to be changed as well as the fly bar and the center hub. I have noticed that the hole where the pin goes through tends to elongate and that can cause vigration. Tracking and blade balance are crutial and need to be checked to maintain a "no vibration" state.

One must remember that these are micro machines and that precision is critical. Just a bit here or a bit there...well...the old construction saying out an 1/8" out a mile.

Just my thoughts..no harm intended.

Whodaguy......

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