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Home✈️Aircraft🚁HelicopterBeginners Corner › A comprehensive heli guide for beginners
09-09-2006 06:30 PM  14 years ago
ba board

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England

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I do like your affirmation that you can't crash your heli whilst in "throttle hold". I'll try that next time it all goes pearshaped.
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09-09-2006 06:55 PM  14 years ago
dazzaster

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right next door to hell

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to small points you say dont buy non digital servos? what did we do before digital servos where available? and a begginer wont notice the difrence would rather crash and ruin a cheap servo than ruin an expensive digital one, buy the expensive stuff later when youve learned to fly.
also
1.3. Choose heli by watching the videos of it.
or how about going to your local club and actually seeing them fly and getting the opinion of thoes that fly them day in day out?
darren
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09-10-2006 12:30 AM  14 years ago
incubus7

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india

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hi aerton...i noticed you have taken some parts from happitoy.com..even am planning to deal with them...how was your experience with them...are they reliable...
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09-10-2006 01:30 AM  14 years ago
dleroi123

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Old Lyme, CT

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Thanks for the tutorial.
Aerton,

Bravo!!!
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09-10-2006 03:48 AM  14 years ago
aerton

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Longueuil, QC, Canada

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I'm glad you liked it!
Thanks dleroi123, I'm glad you liked my guide.

About happitoy.com:
I ordered the 4S 4000mah (I think it's branded RC Expert as on ebay) for $40 and $15 shipping. It was taking a lot of time and they wrote me later that the package they sent returned back to them and asked me to check my address. Well the address was Ok, and they resent it right away. It arrived after that quite fast. They are very customer oriented as it appears.

--

About standard servos:
Well I tried standard servos for T-Rex the micro HS feathering servo - too much slope, play, and swash plate interaction. I crashed the servos when my gyro was "reversed" and I bought the digital micros from ashton electronics. Still they have slope and play but are more precise.

I tested the standard size analog servos non futaba one, well I can visibly see the less precision. But I have never tried to fly my swift on analog servos, I guess as long as there is no play and slope it will be fine, but I have no experience with them. People do say on swift-tuning.com that standard servos can be used successfully for a hover practice but when going to 3D they create too much swash plate interactions. The price difference wasn't serious for me so I bought the entry level digitals. But I guess one can use successfully the analog servos too.

May be somebody who tried both for adjusting and hover can share their experience and the difference they felt. May be there is no difference and therefore going with analog will be actually preferable, I don't know

--

That does make sense to check the local club, but I'm unfortunately not a memeber of any and I don't have a car, so I'm pretty much on my own and have to evaluate helis by videos.
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09-10-2006 05:01 PM  14 years ago
snobdrs

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coatesville,pa-usa

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Im not gona take the time and pic this apart, There is sum good info here.
My advice to a beginner is to do yourself a favor, and seek experenced help. Let someone who knows what they are doing look it over. set it up and test fly it. Makes life much easier
Support your local hobby shop
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09-12-2006 05:01 PM  14 years ago
aerton

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Longueuil, QC, Canada

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Adjusting the gyro: Eliminating the slow tail drift
If your tail drifts slowly at the maximum sensitivity of the Gyro it means that the maximum sensitivity isn't enough. It effectively increase it move your gyro down the tail boom. I mounted mine on the tail servo brackets almost half a way into the tail boom, and now I have no drift and a rock solid tail at a much lower sensitivity.
All that with a low-end piezo AVCS Walkera WK-G007 gyro.

The physics for this is simple. The gyro reads the centrifugal force and adjusts. The farther from the center of rotation the bigger centrifugal force hence the sensitivity, since the centrifugal force is also proportional to the speed of rotation (angular velocity). Slow drift means low angular velocity too low for the gyro to notice, so moving it farther from the center of rotation mulitplies this centrifugal force and gyro notices it fine.

ADDED: 5.7.9.4. You have to hang the gyro upside down and put on top a piece of plywood to protect the gyro from heavy turbulent winds of the passing blades. Otherwise the tail hunts illogically.
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09-12-2006 05:47 PM  14 years ago
BC Don

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Calgary, AB Canada

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How about putting that in a word (or PDF) document. Easier to download and print for folks that want to.

I'd say the 2 most important things are:

1) Get a SIM and use it until you can hover in all directions with whatever gusty wind you've programmed in (30, 50 and 90 size) and you can auto all of them ALL the time.

2) Go to a flying filed (or 2 or 3) close by. See what they are flying. Get what they have cause they can help to bild and set up.
Got Money? Send it to me, I'm a Heli Addict.
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09-12-2006 09:28 PM  14 years ago
Maffu

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Birmingham - England

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WTF IDK CYH IAS
Hello Aerton, thanks for the comprehensive guide.
Only one thing (a constructive criticism, I hope) Too many unexplained abbreviations - a common pitfall when someone with great knowledge passes it on to those with none.
I am a complete beginner. I have seen RC helis and recently got all desirous of them but I know nothing and came here for information.
While your guide is excellent and very informative, it is also a bit scary for a complete numpty to see all those LIPOs, BECs and ESCs without any explanation.
I find it useful when writing guides (and even more useful when reading them) to state the name or words in full the first time, followed by the abbreviation in brackets like so: Magic Wiffle Trousers (MWT). Then, subsequently you can use the abbreviation MWT to your heart's content and we can refer back to the first instance if we get stuck and nod sagely, pretending we knew from the start.
All that said - it still is a great guide and thanks for it.
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09-13-2006 02:07 AM  14 years ago
aerton

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Longueuil, QC, Canada

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Adjusting the gyro: Eliminating the slow tail drift: UPDATE
5.7.9.4. You have to hang the gyro upside down and put on top a piece of plywood to protect the gyro from heavy turbulent winds of the passing blades. Otherwise the tail hunts illogically.

---
Check the Tracking message here, I updated it also.
---
About acronyms. I saw a list of all acronyms somewhere, I think it was on rcgroups.com. Some basic acronyms are in the FAQ here: swift-tuning.com

CA is a thin glue Cyanoacrylate

Lipo is a lithium polymer battery

ESC-electronic speed controller. The thing that runs your brushless motor

BEC-battery elimination circuit. The thing that connects to a higher voltage battery, reduces the voltage and provides the reduced voltage to the reveiver. It's sometimes integrated into ESC.

3D-aerobatic flight.

----
The original document I wrote was and is in DOC format. I'll make my site and post it there.
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09-14-2006 12:44 AM  14 years ago
Maffu

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Birmingham - England

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Thanks Aerton

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09-14-2006 05:44 AM  14 years ago
aerton

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Longueuil, QC, Canada

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You're welcome!
I'm writing a book here with all of my tips and tricks that I figure out as I advance. I plan to gain additional experience with flying this thing to make the book complete and produce an inexpensive e-book with a lot of photos and illustrations.

I think it will be very useful for everybody particularly for the beginners as it will save a lot of frustration in the beginning and make the hobby much more enjoyable and less expensive as well as explain the reactions of the heli and what to do to correct them, what to adjust, what to check and why.

So guys just like me will be able to simply read it and understand what's going on with their helis and what to expect from them instead of learning all of this themselves.

Thanks!

Dan
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09-21-2006 04:02 AM  14 years ago
aerton

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Longueuil, QC, Canada

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I decided to get rid of my WK-G007. I played a lot with it repositioned it in different places, but couldn't stabilize the tail enough. I'm going for GY401. Seams like the only alternative there is.

Also the 4s3p battery I bought from happitoy doesn't keep the voltage well under load, so I ceased using it. And replaced it with another one from truerc.com. I just bought the cells there.
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09-23-2006 04:13 AM  14 years ago
359PETE

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Ware, MA USA

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09-23-2006 04:01 PM  14 years ago
scott sr

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SEAFORD

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So has anyone done anything with the flybar weights and the amount of weight that they found to be the best if used ? Also the size bird to the amount of flybar weight ? Now there is a test . Scott Sr. ><> ****Support Our Troops**** ><>
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09-23-2006 06:40 PM  14 years ago
AV8TOR

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Fort Worth, TX

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Ditto on the 1.6

Well written aerton
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09-23-2006 08:02 PM  14 years ago
aerton

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Longueuil, QC, Canada

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Thanks!

My quantum drive motor's wires seam to have disconnected or glitching. I plugged my newly received gy401 and while testing it on a test stand I noticed momentarily cutting of the power over pretty regular intervals. At first I thought it was the digital servo creating interference, so I switched the 9254 with 3151, but the glitching continued, then I unplugged the gyro completely and the glitching still continued. Then finally when I disconnected the motor and reconnected it, the ESC didn't arm. The ESC is HV85. It would beep 3 times to indicate the radio signal and then it was supposed to beep 2 times to indicate the arming. It didn't. So I wwas figuring out and then I made the adjustment of my VrD to Throttle mixing to make it +100% instead of +74% as it was, and the ESC armed. I was happy to learn that ESC is intact. So I took off both main and tail blades and spooled up on a test stand. BEcause when sparks in motor wires occur it creates a huge RF interference at the receiver and the ESC no longer reacts on throttle command and starts acting illogical, spooling slow and then bursting a fast rotation and so on, so I had to actually wrestly the heli on my test stand by holding the tail blade grips firmly with 1 hand and disconnecting the battery with another. Well you got to be a man sometimes with your helis and wrestle them.

At a low throttle it was going smooth , then when I increased throttle it started glitching again, by regularly cutting power to the motor.

Anyway, I was outgrowing this motor too, because at the max pitch the torque wasn't enough with it and I wanted to upgrade to neu 1910 with 8S setup, since I already have 2 4S batteries and 4S charger. I know it's a pretty powerful 3D setup, since 1910 is equal to 50 size engine.

Just to let you know.
-----

There was a discussion on heavier flybars at swift-tuning.com.
I never tried heavier flybars or weights I just ude -15% exponential on the aileron and elevator controls. May be somebody can comment on those weights

-----
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09-24-2006 12:36 AM  14 years ago
aerton

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Longueuil, QC, Canada

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I actually was completely wrong. The Motor works perfectly fine and the wireing is very good.

The issue with cut-offs was in the ESC. The smalle cube with 4 legs near the LED of HV 85 disconnected completely from the PCB. I guess due to both a non-solid soldering at the legs and the vibration.

I figured it out by pressing on it instinctively while spooling the heli up without the blades. And It worked perfectly fine as long as I press on that little cube. The moment I stopped pressing the heli cut-off in a second or 2.
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09-29-2006 07:50 AM  14 years ago
aerton

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Longueuil, QC, Canada

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I just soldered it back into place. Decided to do it myself.
Now it arms very well. It was a bit tricky to solder the tiny contacts, but I used my standard technique, solder to iron, iron to contacts, cool down, put the contacts on top of each other, iron to joint for a sec and it works fine.

I put the GY401 and s9452 in place and now the tail is rock solid, I can finally forget about the tail and think about the model.
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10-02-2006 08:21 PM  14 years ago
aerton

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Longueuil, QC, Canada

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9. REAL FLYING - 9.15. ADJUSTING THE TRIMS IN FLIGHT
9.15. ADJUSTING THE TRIMS IN FLIGHT
9.15.1. For beginners that don't yet feel comfortable flying the heli at the eye level altitude, you have to take off to about 1 feet (30 cm) and check where the heli flies.
9.15.1.1. Since it's in the ground effect you can only correct large deviations of the trims that make your heli fly fast to one direction
9.15.1.2. Remember first you correct the attitude of the heli with your controls no matter how far you have to move them. Then you land. And then you adjust the trims. Don't adjust the trims in flight yet, particularly when the heli is moving fast. It's virtually impossible and very nerve racking. So correct the attitude, land and apply trim.
9.15.1.3. Or if the attitude is very visible from the beginning, just throttle hold it and land then adjust.
9.15.1.4. Once you played enough with the crazy heli flying in the ground effect and having to change the trims pretty much on every take off – (a great feeling :-) It's time to adjust the trims for real

9.15.2. Adjusting the trims for not absolute beginners
9.15.2.1. First of all, For electric helis it makes no sense to adjust the trims unless your battery is fixed to your heli and can't move. So, when installing the battery, install it as close as possible to the last known position and put double sided tapes at the extremities of the battery so it will hold still during vibration, tilts, etc.
9.15.2.2. Put the battery a bit forward and a bit to the right. But you can just put it right at the middle, what's important is to have it affixed and at the same position, so you won't have to readjust the trims every time.
9.15.2.3. On my swift 16 I just turn the heli upside down over a picnic table and put the battery at the correct position.

9.15.2.4. Now:
9.15.2.5. Take off at a much lower RPM. Visibly you will get a feeling of a low take off RPM by the rotating blades and the sound they make.
9.15.2.6. Low RPM makes your model a trainer. It makes it very stable and very controllable. The model will not jump around at the low RPM, neither it will take off fast and try to fly higher and lower.
9.15.2.7. You need the low RPM to visibly see your heli tilting in a direction and since the RPM is low it will give you a lot of time to react and correct its attitudes.
9.15.2.8. So you increase your RPM until the sound of the blades give you an idea that the heli will take off. Or you can just try to take off and if it doesn't you increase RPM a little.
9.15.2.9. You apply the pitch and watch the heli take off to about 1.5 meters – 6 feet, or eye level hover.
9.15.2.10. You center the control – but don't let them go – just center them and watch the heli tilting in one direction gradually. In fact with a low RPM you will see the heli tilting into that direction step by step.
9.15.2.11. You let your heli start moving into that direction, you remember the direction it moved and you correct its attitude with your controls.
9.15.2.12. Land the heli
9.15.2.12.1. Gradually reduce the pitch until it hits the ground. Watch your cyclic control because if the heli lands by strafing to the sides you will have to control it so the blades won't hit the ground.
9.15.2.12.2. The gyro on the touch down may hunt a little bit, ignore it, it will stop hunting by itself, or decrease a bit the gyro sensitivity.
9.15.2.12.3. Alternatively you can just lower the heli to about 50 cm (3.5 feet) and Throttle Hold it
9.15.2.12.4. Or later on I found myself gradually decreasing both pitch and throttle, to make it land gracefully

9.15.2.13. Once landed, recall the direction of the attitude of the heli and correct it with the trim
9.15.2.14. Once the trim is pretty much centered, you can actually correct the trims right in flight but that will happen to you automatically when you will gain more experience flying it and realize how much control you have over it and how easy it is to fly a properly configured heli

The higher you fly the bigger should be the field. Never do that at home.
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