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09-04-2006 09:59 PM  14 years ago
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moorecj98

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Caliber 30 help
I am setting this up for a newbie at our field and this is my first caliber and i hope my last. The first thing is the link rods are not adjustable and i did the grip flip and geting about 18+ on top and about -2 on the bottom so how do i adjust if the rods dont adjust. Thanks
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09-04-2006 10:33 PM  14 years ago
Chief_USN

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Chesapeake, VA

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You don't need to adjust the rods. Somewhere you missed a step or didn't do something right on the grip flip. I would recommend flipping it back to the stock setup and setting it up that way. Are you setting it up MMS or EMS? You need to make sure that your servo horns are all at 90 degrees and that your washout and mixing arms are parallel to each other. You should be able to get at least +/- 12 degrees if setup properly.

Chad
Team HeliProz 12-14
US Navy Chiefs...Unity, Service, & Navigation to the Fleet since 1893
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09-04-2006 11:24 PM  14 years ago
moorecj98

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I have tried both stock and 3d blade grip and im using standard mixingwith the washout all even and everthing 90o degrees i stil getting around 14+ at mid stick. I also looked at a post with a pic of the correct grip flip and i do have it setup right. The guy bought it off ebay so there is no telling
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09-04-2006 11:37 PM  14 years ago
Chief_USN

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Click the link below and scroll to RR member "dkshema's" post on proper setup. This is for the stock "non-flipped" setup. You might be able to get it going that way.

dkshema's setup guide

Also, make sure you have your trims centered and no subtrims dialed in. Make sure you are trying to center everything out with a linear curve. All simple stuff I know, but easy to overlook.

Chad
Team HeliProz 12-14
US Navy Chiefs...Unity, Service, & Navigation to the Fleet since 1893
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09-05-2006 03:31 AM  14 years ago
dkshema

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Cedar Rapids, IA

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Don't know what you expected to accomplish with the grip flip. Set the heli up with leading edge control per the original setup in the manual. The heli flies exceptionally well in its original configuration with the leading edge blade control. Just get the MR RPM above about 1800, it is smooth as silk and flies great.

Make certain that the balls are in the correct holes in the L-shaped bellcranks on each side of the main frames. For the EMS (CCPM) setup, the balls on the two side bellcranks (and the one in the middle of the two frames) go on the hole closest to the pivot screw. For the MMS (not CCPM) setup, the balls go on the holes closest to the end of the three bellcranks. Make sure those two L-shaped bellcranks are mounted on the correct mounting bosses on the side frames. For the EMS (CCPM) setup, the bellcranks are mounted on the rear set of raised bosses. For the MMS (non-CCPM) setup, the bellcranks are mounted on the forward set of bosses. As a bit of insurance, replace the two self-tapping screws that hold those two bellcranks to the side frames with a couple 3mm socket head cap screws that are long enough to go through the bellcrank, the boss, and protrude into the inner surface of the side frames long enough to get a couple of nylon lock nuts on the ends.

Make sure you have the three cyclic and collective servos properly positioned and installed in the servo tray.

Since the only real adjustable links in the control system are the two short pitch links on the head, this heli is pretty darn difficult to screw up with linkages alone.

As I recall, the total amount of up-down travel that you get with the collective mechanism on the MR shaft is about 20 mm. With the collective mechanism centered in that 20 mm range, the blade pitch should be zero degrees. I've found that in some cases, I've needed to shorten short adjustable pitch links and the short threaded rod (that attach to the blade grips) by a couple of millimeters to get zero degrees pitch with the collective mechanism in the center of its vertical travel range. That also happens to be where the collective mechanism rests with your servo arms properly installed, the servos properly installed, and all trims and subtrims set to zero.

Correctly set up, you should easily get +/-12 degrees of travel, and zero degrees with the linkages and servos set up per the manual and my post as Fromme2u linked to.

The Caliber has to be one of the easiest and most straightforward helis there is when it comes to the head and linkage setup.

You don't say what servos you're using. If you're using something other than a Futaba or JR standard sizer servo (JR 537, DS811, Futaba 9202, 9252...etc), there is a chance that the servo you've chosen has the center of its output shaft located too far aft or forward with respect to the mounting holes. With fixed length rods from the servos to the bellcranks, the absolute position of the servo output shaft in its case can make-or-break your setup. If you need adjustable rods, pick up a set from Chris at RC Heliworks. They are nice and adjustable and allow you to custom make a set if you're using an odd servo.

If you need a copy of the instruction manual, click here:

http://www.runryder.com/gallery/4171/Caliber30IM.zip

to download a zipped .PDF copy of the manual.

Dave
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09-05-2006 05:59 PM  14 years ago
wurthless

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Redding Ca.

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I thinks it kinda funny how someone would come to the C30 page and ask for help and in the same breath knock that same heli,,,good thing there are nice people here to help,,QUICK! ,,,can someone turn the gravity off for just a second,,,,
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09-05-2006 08:01 PM  14 years ago
cclark440

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Lake Forest, Ca USA

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I bought my first Caliber off of ebay and all I can say is I sure am glad the seller stressed that it need a complete pre-flight check.

He told me he tried flying it once but gave up quickly. After recieving the heli I know why he gave up. He had the Gyro and rudder reveresed. The elevator was reveresed, and he had it setup for EMS and using a radio that isn't capable of EMS.

My advice, assume everything is wrong and double check it.
Clint
Caliber 30, Blade CX, Saving For Caliber5.
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09-05-2006 10:36 PM  14 years ago
wurthless

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Redding Ca.

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That would take quite the pilot to fly in that shape!!!QUICK! ,,,can someone turn the gravity off for just a second,,,,
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09-05-2006 11:02 PM  14 years ago
cclark440

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Lake Forest, Ca USA

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Let me just say, that I should have checked better before trying to fly her the first time. I didn't catch the reversed servos until after I tried hovering it. Luckely I kept it in one piece, but only be the skin of my teeth.Clint
Caliber 30, Blade CX, Saving For Caliber5.
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09-06-2006 12:54 AM  14 years ago
wurthless

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Redding Ca.

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Sounds like you got potiential thou!!!QUICK! ,,,can someone turn the gravity off for just a second,,,,
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09-06-2006 01:01 AM  14 years ago
dkshema

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Cedar Rapids, IA

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Maybe, just maybe, you need to go through the machine carefully to make sure all the parts have been tightened down and assembled correctly, and that loctite was used in places where it is needed.

Dave
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09-06-2006 02:13 AM  14 years ago
cclark440

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Lake Forest, Ca USA

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I did just that. Not trusting anything after finding all the other errors.
I found that the belt was so loose it was about to slip.
The engine mount screws had no loctite on them, and one of the screws was missing out of the starter coupling. I learned alot about this Caliber for only having a few days.

Now the next problem I am fighting with is tunning it to get a decent head speed. Right now it bogs when I try to take it out of a hover into forwad flight. I was think that it was to rich, but it doesn't seem to smoke all that much. I am just hoping that the engine isn't just plan wore out. If that is the case, Toki 40 here I come!
Clint
Caliber 30, Blade CX, Saving For Caliber5.
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09-06-2006 03:48 AM  14 years ago
dkshema

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Cedar Rapids, IA

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OS 32 SX-H in the heli by any chance? Before you chuck it out, take it apart, look at the cylinder and piston, especially if it's the non-ringed version.

If the piston is scarred or scored on the exhaust port side (big nasty grooves and junk in the skirt and cylinder, then your motor has gone to the happy hunting ground.

If the innards seem OK, set the needles back to the factory setting, and start tuning it all over again. Beware not to get the low-speed needle too lean. Keep the motor idling by using the throttle trim, not the low speed needle. Read the 32 SX-H manual a few times about how to tweak the carb. Tuning the 32 is an art, not a science and takes a bit of patience.

I'd recommend the OS 37 SZ-H over the Toki. There seem to have been a lot of Tokis sold, but you never hear if they are any good. Besides, you have to grind a bit of the Toki's head off to make it fit between the side frames. Put the Toki muffler on the 37 (or a hatori, fun-tech, or other good, big volume muffler) and go fly.

Also check your pitch and throttle curves. The manual has some pretty good suggested starting curves for various flight modes. I use those and tweak from there. Throttle settings are bit more experimental.

Dave
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