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Home✈️Aircraft🚁HelicopterSynergy R/COther › Starter shaft
07-21-2006 09:30 PM  14 years ago
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PIGROLL

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Starter shaft
What size is the starter shaft and does it come with a coupling?I am getting ready and working out the items that I may need to purchase to complete my Synergy.I can not wait a minute more after I build it to fly it.
The cheese slipped off my cracker a long time ago
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07-21-2006 09:46 PM  14 years ago
DrScoles

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Redmond WA

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comes with the coupling, 6mm... and has a nice divot on shaft for set screw... no need to do it yourself<g> They thought of everything on this thing!!

Mike
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07-21-2006 09:54 PM  14 years ago
harveyhugo

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Cheshire, UK

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Only ever flown raptors, so only have a standard start extension, do I need a one way starter extension for my new synergy?

If so, what do you recommend to work with a dynatron starter. How's the K&S No-Load Hex Starter Extension?
2 x Trex 600N, 2 x Synergy N9
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07-21-2006 10:04 PM  14 years ago
PIGROLL

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Hey DRSCOLES,thank you much for that.Now can I ask if I am using 94758s will I need other than stock arm that comes with the servo or do I need to look into getting a wheel arm for these?The cheese slipped off my cracker a long time ago
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07-21-2006 10:17 PM  14 years ago
bob00

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Toronto, ON

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Mike,

Given that there is a divet in the starter shaft as opposed to a flat, do you think that one might be able to use an MA proflex starter wand without problems?

Thanks,
- Rob
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07-22-2006 12:17 AM  14 years ago
Ricky.m

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Hi pigroll
The n9 needs 13.5 - 14 mm servo arms so standards will do and just measure these centers for control ball placement and a one way starter adaptor is best!
Align Trex 600N Magnum Fuel DX 'The Future' 7
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07-22-2006 12:43 AM  14 years ago
bobj

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United Kingdom

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Hi

----------------
If so, what do you recommend to work with a dynatron starter. How's the K&S No-Load Hex Starter Extension?
---------------
The K&S one tends to start to slip in a number of places under heavy load, the Robbe one is by far the best I have come across, not cheap but will last for ever.

Cheers
Bob J
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07-22-2006 01:38 AM  14 years ago
PIGROLL

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Thanks Ricky M,The cheese slipped off my cracker a long time ago
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07-22-2006 08:03 PM  14 years ago
DrScoles

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Redmond WA

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Bob, I doubt the MA starter would be a problem... I personally had bad luck with those things! Always spitting the roll bearings out.... I changed my fury's over to 6mm after going through a few of those flex starters... Might just be a good time to switch the fleet over to the 6mm hex, that way if your starter dies, people at the field will more than likely be able to help you out, majority of people are using the hex...

Mike
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07-23-2006 05:04 AM  14 years ago
bob00

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Toronto, ON

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Thanks for the info Mike, I've been very lucky, the first shaft lasting 4 seasons until killed by a hot start. Anyway, I have a stash of them to work through and the N9 will be sitting beside a bunch of MA machines so if it will work I've gotta give it a try.

Thanks man,
- Rob
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07-24-2006 03:01 AM  14 years ago
pip

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Nevermind....
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07-26-2006 10:10 PM  14 years ago
Chuckie (RIP)

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Crofton Maryland

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I talked to Matt Botos this past weekend and its not recommended to use the any one way bearing directly on the shaft. The shaft is not hardened and the one way bearing will wear down the shaft quickly.

Chuckie
Please stand by for faster service!
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07-26-2006 10:17 PM  14 years ago
bob00

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Toronto, ON

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Thanks - you saved me some grief.

- Rob
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07-27-2006 06:09 AM  14 years ago
Secret Squirrel

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I can reinforce what chuckie said about the start shaft being not hardened.

Due to engine troubles I've had to try and get the engine in and out many times. It appears that my starter wand had 'burred' the top of the start shaft which put a ridge on it which made the starter adapter a royal b!tch to get off, followed by an extreme fight to get the starter block bearings off.

All this required FREQUENT use of four letter words starting with F.

I've taken to sanding the top of the start shaft at an angle to try and prevent this.

Si
-------------
Simon Lockington
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07-27-2006 08:48 AM  14 years ago
bobj

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Hi

I would go along with what Simon says, I use a sanding drum in a dremel to grind a small angle on the top edge to stop any burr been a problem, other than this the engine is very easy to get out

Off to the 3DM in a few hours:-)

Cheers
Bob
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07-27-2006 10:13 AM  14 years ago
Britflyer

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Derby, England

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Removing Engine When your Hex Adaptor is Stuck !!
As highlighted above, the hex adaptor can get stuck. Sounds like chamfering the top of the start shaft will help.

However if your hex gets stuck, this is one method to remove the engine pretty easily, so you can then remove the Hex later.

Remove all the bolts, as though you were removing the engine as normal. Drop the engine as far as it will go, till it sits on the frames. Next get an allenkey, and through the clutch bell holes, undo the 2 bolts holding the clutch to the fan.

Now the engine is parted from the clutch/clutch bell stack, the engine can be pulled out easily.

Then pull the clutch/clutchbell/bearing block out.

Of course you loose your clutch to fan alignment, but it does allow you to remove the engine easily and allow you to get better access to remove the Hex Adaptor from the start shaft, out of the model.

Takes all the F Words out the equation too...........

Paul


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