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Home✈️Aircraft🚁Helicoptere-MikadoOther › just got my logo 10 3d kit....question about assembily.
07-20-2006 02:04 AM  14 years ago
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quattrokid73

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Huntingdon Valley, PA, USA

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just got my logo 10 3d kit....question about assembily.
My logo 10 3d kit arrived at the door today. I am extremely impressed with the quality of the parts and instruction manual. I do have one question about assembily, though.

After building and installing the landing gear, the instructions say to install the motor. Is it important to install the motor at this step or can I wait till later and do it at the end? I have to solder my ESC and BEC to the motor still and would like to wait till the end for that.

Might be a stupid question, but I might be missing out on some little detail that requires the motor put in at this step.

Thanks, Adam

PS.

Setup is as follows...

06' Logo 10 3D
Neu 1910/1.5y
CC 45HV
45V BEC
3x 9650
GY401/9253
R790 RX
Aero-Model/Hacker Brushless/Mikado 2007
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07-20-2006 02:19 AM  14 years ago
jestertooo

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Austin, TX USA

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I would mount it up. I have the same motor as you. If you are using the plastic motor mount, you can use the motor spacer and not trim at all. I used the aluminum mount and didn't want to use the spacer. That kind of defeated the purpose in my mind. I trimmed the frames slightly around the base of the motor, as well as the motor mount itself to make it fit right. It's perfect now. You can always take it back out later to solder as you have pretty good access to it.

Jess
Bones heal and chicks dig scars. Pain is temporary, but glory is forever. -- Bart Simpson
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07-20-2006 02:20 AM  14 years ago
SBK

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NE Ohio

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We change the motors and pinions quite often to experiement on different setups. So, I don't see any problem to install the motor at the end of the assembly.
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07-20-2006 02:25 AM  14 years ago
quattrokid73

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I think I am going to mount it at the end then. Also, do you reccomend getting a gyro mount for better positioning of the gyro?

adam
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07-20-2006 02:43 AM  14 years ago
quattrokid73

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I just moved on to the next step, leaving the motor installation till later, and noticed something else amiss.

I am on step 4, main gear installation.

I understand what's going on here. The one part of the step is fitting a spring clip into a groove on the main shaft. My main shaft doesn't have any groove on it.

Am I stupid or do I need a new main shaft?

Adam
Aero-Model/Hacker Brushless/Mikado 2007
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07-20-2006 03:58 AM  14 years ago
eggbeater1965

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Meridian, ID 83642

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its a hardened shaft...
The new L10 3d's come with a hardened main shaft, there should be a black collar with a slip pin, install the gear, shaft with shims like the manual describes but instead of the snap ring just slide the shaft down enough to slide the black collar up the bottom, insert the steel pin in the hole in the shaft then slide the black collar down locking the pin in the groove, finish by pulling the main shaft back up into posistion and install the locking collar up top with the 3 set screws...hope that helps, otherwise I can take a photo for you.
If the brain was simple to understand, we would all be too simple to understand it.
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07-20-2006 04:17 AM  14 years ago
quattrokid73

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thanks a lot! makes total sense. i wondered what that plastic piece and pin were for since the instructions don't use them. my tail pitch slider has a good amount of friction when moving on the tail shaft. will this reside after it breaks in? i put some molybdenum on it to help.

adam
Aero-Model/Hacker Brushless/Mikado 2007
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07-20-2006 04:47 AM  14 years ago
SBK

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NE Ohio

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---my tail pitch slider has a good amount of friction when moving on the tail shaft.--
Have you hook it up with the tail rotor grips yet? There may be some binding at either end of the travel of the slider but should be very free otherwise.

If you are moving the slider alone without hooking it up to the tail rotor blade grips, it should move very freely all along the tail shaft.
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07-20-2006 12:17 PM  14 years ago
rscamp

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Ontario, Canada

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I've assembled quite a few and I never found any reason to install the motor at the early stage.

On the ones I have assembled, it has been friction between the plastic balls in the links that has caused friction in the tail pitch mechanism. It seems for all the world that it is the slider but it is not. Disconnect the ball links and try again. If it is free, use the link sizing tool to open up the links until it is free when fully assembled.

Rob
Coincidence is the science of the true believer. - Chet Rhaymo
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07-20-2006 10:09 PM  14 years ago
quattrokid73

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I've completely assembled the kit sans electronics and I am very impressed at how sturdily it went together. I did get the 06 version of the kit, which I am pleased with.

It seems the tolerances are so tight though, that the head is very stiff. Particularly the large stationary balls on the outermost part of the flybar that attach via a hinge to the blade grips. They are VERY stiff, creating a lot of resistance for the flybar to shift orientation.

Any suggestions? I tried snugging the links with pliars while on the balls but it didn't help.

Adam
Aero-Model/Hacker Brushless/Mikado 2007
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07-20-2006 11:15 PM  14 years ago
rscamp

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Ontario, Canada

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Use the ball link sizing tool. It isn't the same size as these larger links, but it still works.

Rob
Coincidence is the science of the true believer. - Chet Rhaymo
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07-21-2006 12:24 AM  14 years ago
quattrokid73

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It comes with a ball link sizing tool? I never saw that in the packaging. I was very impressed with the stiffness of the CF blades that came with it.

Also, what are you guys doing to paint your canopies and place your electronics.

Adam
Aero-Model/Hacker Brushless/Mikado 2007
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07-21-2006 01:45 AM  14 years ago
rscamp

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Ontario, Canada

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No sorry. You have to buy one. You will probably need it for the links on the tail pitch mechanism and for the links that go to the plastic swash if your heli is so equipped.

Rob
Coincidence is the science of the true believer. - Chet Rhaymo
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07-21-2006 04:29 AM  14 years ago
SBK

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NE Ohio

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If you are talking about the double ball link (#965), the re-sizing tool is too small to do any good,

Try using a small plumber's open jaw plier to squeeze three places around the circumference of the link while it is on the ball balt.
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07-21-2006 05:56 AM  14 years ago
quattrokid73

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I'm going to use a dremel and some scrap black plastic to make my own ESC and other electronic mounts.

Why does everyone mount their RX behind the swash and not down low? Wouldn't the gyro go best there?
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07-21-2006 07:31 AM  14 years ago
OICU812

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Grande Prairie, Alberta, Canada

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The big arsed ball links from flybar to levers do not need to be enlargened or squeezed. After a few break in trimming flights they will loosen right up to perfect amount. I keep reading about people using pliers and stuff like that when it is never needed, oh well each to their own.

Most important part to electric orientation in regards to the gyro and rx is to keep everything apart as far as possible as it is with any electric heli. Keeping the rx away from esc as far as possible, then the rx away from gyro to not interfer in any way. How you do yours makes no difference up top or bottom, the gyro does work very well on bottom of the l10 and l14 though.
...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars and frequency pins...
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07-21-2006 07:49 AM  14 years ago
quattrokid73

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I'll see what works best for keeping everything tidy and seperate. If the Neu motor rubs the sides of the frame, is this okay or will the vibrations cause a larger possibility for glitches? Shaving them down seems like it would be a pain in the ass (and risk dust getting in bearings).

The motor only rubs slightly.

Adam
Aero-Model/Hacker Brushless/Mikado 2007
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07-21-2006 08:11 AM  14 years ago
Lorents

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Oslo, Norway

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Hi,

No problem with the Neu rubbing the frames - they are plastic and wont cause any glitching


What comes around goes around.
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07-21-2006 11:38 AM  14 years ago
rscamp

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Ontario, Canada

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It is amazing how much our opinions vary!

- it is entirely possible to use the small ball link sizing tool on the large links. In fact, it works well - it just requires a tad more coordination. Admittedly, the resultant internal radius is smaller.

- I did not find that the large links loosened quickly at all. Maybe that is because I don't fly enough.

Rob
Coincidence is the science of the true believer. - Chet Rhaymo
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07-21-2006 07:27 PM  14 years ago
eggbeater1965

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Meridian, ID 83642

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same problem here with the flybar links, after several flights I had to open them up slightly as the flybar was still VERY tight.If the brain was simple to understand, we would all be too simple to understand it.
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Home✈️Aircraft🚁Helicoptere-MikadoOther › just got my logo 10 3d kit....question about assembily.
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