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Home✈️Aircraft🚁HelicopterHelicopter Main Discussion › Raptor 50 Hyper without metal headblock?
07-17-2006 05:42 AM  14 years ago
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Chickenx10

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Ft Drum NY

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Raptor 50 Hyper without metal headblock?
is it ok to run a 50 hyper without a metal head block? i was told you need one, but i need someone else to comfirm this, thanks
Raptor 50 Titan / OS 50 Hyper / GY401 w/ 9254
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07-17-2006 07:04 AM  14 years ago
mnewhook

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Newfoundland, Canada

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If you do 3d get a metal head, otherwise there is no need.
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07-17-2006 08:03 AM  14 years ago
tauscnc

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Joliet IL

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You don't need one. I have had the same plastic head on my 50 for countless flights. Works fine...and I do 3D.
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07-17-2006 08:10 AM  14 years ago
Yug

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UK. Herts

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The engine wont work without it's head Vegetable rights and Peace
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07-17-2006 01:13 PM  14 years ago
BarracudaHockey

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Jacksonville FL

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Depends on what head speed you plan on running. Crank it up and start throwing it around and the head block can split. You don't want to find out what that looks like in flight.

Also as you have been told countless times, there's a forum just a scroll down thats soley for Raptors and Raptor specific questions. Same with engines and radios.
Andy
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07-17-2006 01:17 PM  14 years ago
PIGROLL

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I have both the plastic and the metal with Hyper 50s and I can not tell the difference.Maybe I should fly harder and then there might be a significant difference.
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07-17-2006 01:19 PM  14 years ago
Krypty

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Amersfoort - Netherlands

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Well I fly the Hyper without the metal block and I haven't had any problems.

I run about 2000 RPM with an MP2 pipe and do sort of 3D. Inverted, Flips, Tic-Tocs Loops, Rolls.

I have done this since I started flying and going for about 200 Flights now.
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07-17-2006 01:40 PM  14 years ago
Yug

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IF you are running 2000, then the plastic Hub can fracture, where the fracture starts around the jesus bolt holes and this can also be provoked using harder dampers, resulting in greater hammering forces with big cyclic inputs. The washout and blade grips will be OK although they can soften the responsivness. The harder you make the head, the more precise you will need to be with its setup, ie, balancing and so on. The plastic hub also has a tendency to creep resulting in an ill fitting hole for the main shaft.Vegetable rights and Peace
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07-17-2006 01:51 PM  14 years ago
gullie667

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Brooklyn, NY

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The motor probably has nothing to do with it but.... I run the hyper with Carbon Extream Crisp 3d Dampers at 2000 rpm and it has done ok for me so far. This thread is making me second guess that though. I work the heli out pretty hard and damn sure done want to have the head block crack 20 feet from me.
...of course, I am flying an Evo 50 and everyone knows the Evo is a better heli *Ducks*

Gullie
Helicopters - 1000 parts flying in formation.
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07-17-2006 07:35 PM  14 years ago
dragonlord

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luton uk

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I run at 1850 and havent had problems wih plastic head

it will tend to get slopy a bit quicker

but i wouldent want to try 2000 on a plastic head im to atached to my own head
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07-17-2006 11:11 PM  14 years ago
A. Bundy

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Aurora,IL. 30W/SW of Chicago

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07-18-2006 01:11 AM  14 years ago
blakka_1

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London/Enfield

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Nice one Bundy.

Hovering = Fine for plastic head
3D = Metal head only.

3D can be done with the plastic head but only for period of time.

Metal headblocks can be found for cheap now days.
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07-18-2006 01:53 AM  14 years ago
359PETE

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Ware, MA USA

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I put a $50 Mavrikk head block on my Raptor 30 and I can honestly say that the control response is more precise. I was running red dampers and plastic head block. I put the metal one on and the heli starts and stops cyclic inputs with much more authority. It was mushy before.
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07-18-2006 02:11 AM  14 years ago
shawgl

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Murrieta, CA

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JK seemed to do fine while beating the heck out of a rappy 50 with plastic head block. I can't see anyone really doing that much more to it than he dishes out. Really no need to run a headspeed that high anyways. 2000 that is. I would be willing to bet that didn't just happen from one flight and it showed some signs before it let go. Plastic normally does. Bundy, What did TT have to say about that? They pay you for it? If anything would cause that it would be a manufacturing problem most likely. I'm sure TT tested those blocks to at least 1.5 times the normal operating RPM so upwart of 3000 plus RPM under full load. Just for liability reasons.In God we trust, everyone else we monitor.
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07-18-2006 02:14 AM  14 years ago
359PETE

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Ware, MA USA

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I agree that JK does hammer the turd out of his R50 with a plastic headblock... and I knew it would only take 10 minutes or so for someone to chime in with that.

My point is that its a known problem that it can come apart. $50 is cheap insurance.
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07-18-2006 02:17 AM  14 years ago
mnewhook

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Newfoundland, Canada

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The plastic head on my R50 split on me during a tic-toc and caused quite a bit of damage to the heli. I was running 1850 head speed. At the time the helicopter had done around 100 flights and had never crashed. If you use a plastic head on a R50 and do 3d eventually it will fail.
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07-18-2006 02:20 AM  14 years ago
A. Bundy

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No.I would not ask them too,either.I have been around long enough to see many different brands explode.I was flogging it doing max rudder stickbanging piroflips at 1950+.I run a stock block on one of mine set for autos,and when I 3D it kind of hard I just try to be real smooth.
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07-18-2006 02:21 AM  14 years ago
shawgl

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Murrieta, CA

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Pete
Nothing wrong with insurance.... But whoever told the guy "he needed it" to do 3D is wrong. You don't need it but if you decide to go buy it..... Good on you. Would I just not fly untill I get one....Not a chance. Next time you ball it up and have it apart anyways would be a good time to change it. If you are asking that question in the first place you most likely aren't "flying" the helicopter hard enough to break it. You may be "Crashing" it hard enough though. Metal is expensive to tear up. I know, I owned a CS and a Tempest FAI. If you aint out flying the equipment.... It's not required... It's optional.
In God we trust, everyone else we monitor.
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07-18-2006 02:25 AM  14 years ago
A. Bundy

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I would say tic tocs and piroflips are the worst two tricks to fail that piece.I think nothing of loops,rolls,autos,stall turns,and other basic tricks with the stocker.
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07-18-2006 02:29 AM  14 years ago
359PETE

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Ware, MA USA

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shawgl
I didn't say "he needed it".

I said in my first post that the metal head block felt slightly stiffer than the plastic one with the same dampers. Less bounce at beginning/end of hard cyclic input.

I said in my second post that I have seen JK and many others hammer on a plastic headblock but I felt that considering there have been many reports and photos of headblocks being blown apart (Like A Bundys) that $50 was cheap insurance considering the residual damage that a failed headblock would incure... not to mention the safety factor.

I've done some fairly violent 3D with a plastic head block and wood blades (boy do they fart when you push 'em hard) doesn't mean its ideal... or even wise.
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