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Century Radikal E640 - Swift 16 NX
› Swift vibration - is it solved???
02-12-2006 11:57 AM  12 years agoPost 1
nicco

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Sweden

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Hi everyone,

First was is a lof of post regarding the vibration. But now it's pretty quite.

Is the problem solved?

Regards
Niklas

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02-12-2006 02:05 PM  12 years agoPost 2
coolice

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Northamptonshire, England

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Hey,

Yes & no in some cases. Spoolup/down vibes are still apparent but greatly reduced and certainly flyable. Yet some others do not seem to have any problems at all.

Some are reporting great success fitting new blade grips & head block, the molding marks being the key to grip choice supposedly.

My own machine is flying great from day one, I have added an extra shim to the head to stiffen it up which helps.

*News flash* A fix is being worked on as we speak and should be coming out in about a weeks time I am told.
The resonance problem is only apparent in about 6% of Swifts sold and is traced to the head block shrinking after molding and hence the feathering spindle ball being to tight.

There will be the option for the customer to return their feathering spindle & head dampers, the teeter ball will be machined down and harder dampers, along with a extra shims provided.
Alternatively the customer could machine down the ball themselves to fix this problem and then add the harder dampers & shim.
Whether there will be a small fee for this I am not sure.

This I am told is about correct for UK, US may differ. But customers are being listened to and fixes provided.
.

Ian Contessa
Team Robbe SchluterUK
Midland Helicopters

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02-12-2006 04:13 PM  12 years agoPost 3
sparrow17

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Feathering shaft too tight?!....I noticed yesterday while lubing the head asembly on my swift that the feathering shaft needed to be "jammed" into its housing. Should it have just slid right in with no problems? I had to really kinda pop it in so the ball part was centered.

Spar~

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02-12-2006 05:34 PM  12 years agoPost 4
coolice

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Northamptonshire, England

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Hey,

Yeah, ideally the shaft should be a loose fit for the spindle to pivot around the ball. But some of the plastic head blocks grip to tight on the teeter ball.
Combine this change with the harder dampers and the resonance issues get fixed.

I'll keep you all informed when I know more.
.

Ian Contessa
Team Robbe SchluterUK
Midland Helicopters

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02-12-2006 05:54 PM  12 years agoPost 5
SRH990

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Birmingham, UK

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I'll certainly be up for the 'fix' when available although I only occasionally get problems on spool up using throttle hold on spool down. I've just had a new head delivered and have 3 feathering shafts to choose from, so the dampers are the next thing I presume the ball on the feathering shaft needs to be a loose sliding fit?

Steve -Trex 700N, Trex 600N, Raptor 550E, 450SE, Mini Titan, Logo 5003D, Beam E4

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02-12-2006 06:21 PM  12 years agoPost 6
GofastSam

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Vidor , Texas USA

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Machined my feathering shaft ball down enough to pass through head block with no friction and made a huge difference and reported this to century and also on got milk topic. Think alots of shake spooling up or down is with struts. On my first hover ( origional swift ) left struts broke off after about 15 seconds and was able to land on remaining side and when applied negative right side snapped ! , Luckily I was in my shop on concrete and settled on tail servos and chassis with only blades scufffing floor resulting in bent main shaft .004ths. So ordered replacement set and installed and shake is hardly visible when spooling up or down ,got second swift that shook like chicken dancing and viberated severly in hover so machined feathering shaft and smooth in flight but still some shake but not severe spooling up or down and determined difference in struts as new set is built heavier and has renforcement running all the way up to mounting location for struts. Grabbed swift with new style struts and hardly any movent when rocked tried the same with second swift with old style struts and lots of movement translating into shake. Century is sending me replacement set for ones that broke in flight which I'll install and test to verify theory. Have been working with Antonio at swift who is going to release results shortly on runryder and E-zone when best solution is arrived at.

Sam Anderson

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02-12-2006 06:35 PM  12 years agoPost 7
coolice

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Northamptonshire, England

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Hey,

I'm still trying to decide if the teeter ball is needed or not really, the Falcon50 I had just had a straight feathering spindle with hard dampers and flew great.
I also see a lot of the top pilots, Yamaguchi etc. removing the centre teeter points from their Rappy heads with no detrimental effects.

I have already turned down my ball (:eek the other day, but lack decent hard dampers as yet to compliment this change and I still have the original U/C legs. Must get myself a pair of the new longer ribbed ones.

Also after fitting the AXI motor I swear the spoolup vibes have all but disappeared now and the spooldown ones are easy just hit auto. But I have also noticed the slow startup from the ESC seems smoother, that could help.

As a side note I love auto'ing my machine down, even on calm days the 51.5mm rotor disk is more than enough to bring that Swift down nice & softly.
.

Ian Contessa
Team Robbe SchluterUK
Midland Helicopters

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02-12-2006 11:12 PM  12 years agoPost 8
SRH990

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Birmingham, UK

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My Hawk Pro has no ball either and I know the pivot point that the feathering shaft runs through on the Raptor 50 is removed when fitting Carbon Extreme dampers so stiffer dampers in the Swifts head may well help although would we get the 'nodding' problems common on Raptors with the red dampers & lowish headspeeds?

I looked at my 'legs' yesterday and they are also the thinner first version so some of the stiffer new ones would be good to try, I know Century UK have stock now, are they the later version I wonder. Checking out the spares on Century UK's website they have nearly everything in stock with a couple of exceptions, one being main shafts - an upgrade on the way?

I managed half an auto when the speed controller decided that the battery voltage was low after a hig pitch climb, I guess setting the P60 to 'auto lipo' wasn't a good move, resetting to 4V sure helps! I used to auto a Shuttle ZXX on a regular basis so I suppose the Swift is maybe a little easier, a bit lighter but just as much inertia stored up in the blades and wh needs driven tails anyway . How about getting a video up to show us the best auto technique for Swifts

Steve -Trex 700N, Trex 600N, Raptor 550E, 450SE, Mini Titan, Logo 5003D, Beam E4

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02-13-2006 10:46 AM  12 years agoPost 9
coolice

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Northamptonshire, England

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Hey Steve,

Yeah, thats the only drawback with harder head dampers. My old TSK's used to start the damper wobble coming to the end of an auto as the rotor rpm fell to the right point. I don't think it will be to much of an issue with the Swift as the small rotor disk will soon pass through the rpm band at which it will wobble. We'll soon see anyway.

Last time I spoke to Dean they did have a good stock now of almost everything, the main shafts like you say were a little low or out but coming. I may chat to them again today and if so enquire about the new U/C for myself to.

I must admit to being quite lucky with auto's, but having said that my F3C flying has quite an important auto at the end of the flight so I do a lot of practice normally, only on 90's.

I am trying to get a video done & up for people to see my model flying, the basic one I have so far isn't all that good as we were struggling to get the digi-camera to zoom in while videoing. Needless to say it doesn't, my poor Fiancee was trying to follow the model & work out if it did or not.

Here's what I have for now till I get a better one :

http://www.coolice.co.uk/Ian-Contessa-Swift%20AXI.AVI

P.S. Ignore the ski suit, I look a muppet but atleast I'm not cold.
.

Ian Contessa
Team Robbe SchluterUK
Midland Helicopters

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02-13-2006 12:31 PM  12 years agoPost 10
SRH990

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Birmingham, UK

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I chucked one of my feathering shafts in my pillar drill this morning and used a fine file to reduce the diameter of the ball. It was surprising how tight the ball is in a new head (as well as the old one) so I'm off to try it this afternoon in between showers.

I had a look at the video, there's certainly plenty left at the bottom of the auto and having stood outside all Saturday afternoon I have no problems with the ski suit Are you using the Century UK/NHP 515mm blades?

I've run the heli up without blades just to tach the headspeed and the Axi starts really slowly, seems to hit a fairly low rpm then hold for a while before spooling up properly - wierd but I'll see how it is with the blades on.

Steve -Trex 700N, Trex 600N, Raptor 550E, 450SE, Mini Titan, Logo 5003D, Beam E4

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02-13-2006 01:19 PM  12 years agoPost 11
coolice

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Northamptonshire, England

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Hey,

Yeah my ball was quite tight to in the head and I think this is where some of the problems have occured and then while other kits have not suffered at all.

I am still using the stock Century Whisper Tech 51.5mm (look like NHP's to me to) blades and think they are great. Will certainly try a set of 53's at some stage as that will add a small amount where it matters without incuring to much extra drag.

Hehehe, that video was on Saturday afternoon as well. Cold, I didn't know it was cold

Yes I have noticed the AXI spools up a lot slower than the Century motor and like you have seen, hits a slow RPM and holds it for a second before continuing to ramp up speed. The whole spoolup process is very nice & smooth though, with a great whistle once at rpm.
Your gonna like it I think, let us know what you think.
.

Ian Contessa
Team Robbe SchluterUK
Midland Helicopters

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02-13-2006 07:44 PM  12 years agoPost 12
SRH990

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Birmingham, UK

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Flew it with the Axi this afternoon and its certainly an improvement over the 3D motor, more torque as you say and vertical performance seems improved, only down side is that there was no difference to the resonance but then I'm still running the original dampers. I didn't get chance to try battery duration as I was still setting up but I'll check it with the meter next flight out. I'm running 10 degrees max pitch and it does seem to load up with full stick so maybe knocking back to 9 degrees would help. I did notice that running with the 3D motor that collective management was necessary, I've got too used to the Hyper in the R50 on 30% nitro , not a problem though.

I'm sure when I ordered the blades Glen said they were NHP, they match the NHP Razor Pro's on my R50 apart from the square tips. I've got a set of 550 carbons I bought for the Hawk Pro lying around but I think maybe a little much for the Swift, auto's would probably go for ever though

Steve -Trex 700N, Trex 600N, Raptor 550E, 450SE, Mini Titan, Logo 5003D, Beam E4

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02-13-2006 08:35 PM  12 years agoPost 13
coolice

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Northamptonshire, England

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Hey Steve,

You've had the same findings as me with the AXI, still a bit better performance over the stock motor if you need it.
Mine to is marginally over pitched still at top end I am sure, but that little extra is nice for forward flight. Especially when your less likely to load the head up and can use the extra degree to slingshot the model round a loop.

Once we have the hard dampers the resonance will vanish I'm sure.

Like you I think 550mm main's will be a little to much, but 530's will be great I think. I'm hoping to try a set maybe soon.
.

Ian Contessa
Team Robbe SchluterUK
Midland Helicopters

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02-14-2006 11:50 AM  12 years agoPost 14
SRH990

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Birmingham, UK

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After turning down the centre ball on the feathering shaft it was a real drop through fit, not really touching the head on the way through! The stock shaft is a fairly tight push fit in the head so I wondered how I could get a sliding fit to avoid friction stopping the shaft sliding through the head but touching enough to maintain the teeter. I guessed the best way would be to chuck the shaft in my cordless drill and use some fine grinding paste, not having any I used some tooth paste . Running the shaft in & out whilst spinning it with the drill eased the fit until it was just right.

After reassembly I've just tested it on the patio and even on a hard surface the spool down resonance is almost completely gone, now about what I'd expect of any heli on a hard surface, especially with long thin legs & no rubber sleeves on the skids. When the harder dampers are available it should improve even more.

Steve -Trex 700N, Trex 600N, Raptor 550E, 450SE, Mini Titan, Logo 5003D, Beam E4

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02-14-2006 12:00 PM  12 years agoPost 15
coolice

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Northamptonshire, England

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Hey,

Great, a smooth as silk Swift with minty, fresh breath

Once I have the new dampers I will be removing the ball further still I think.
.

Ian Contessa
Team Robbe SchluterUK
Midland Helicopters

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Century Radikal E640 - Swift 16 NX
› Swift vibration - is it solved???
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