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Century Radikal E640 - Swift 16 NX
› Swift lube job......
02-11-2006 04:34 AM  12 years agoPost 1
sparrow17

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Im slowly putting together my Swift and wanted to know what lubricant should I use for the blade grip thrust bearings. Also what is a gneral all purpose lube for the rest of the components.

The whole head assembly seems rather stiff to me too.(swash) I thought the flybar paddles should move when just blown on for instance.

Any info would be appreciated !

Spar~

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02-11-2006 10:43 AM  12 years agoPost 2
coolice

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Northamptonshire, England

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Hey,

A good grease I found for lubing the thrustraces & whole head assembly is Tamiya Diff Grease, available from most RC car model shops. It is not cheap by comparison to other greases but works well.
In the past I have used TriFlow grease which also proved to be very good, so it's probably best to see what your local hobby store has instock.

The swashplate on my example to was a little tight, I ended up working it for while to loosen the ball in the delrin cup.
After a while I cheated and used an old mainshaft to spin the ball in the cup while I held it, free'd off nicely.
I've seen a friends Swift and his is nice & smooth from the start so it must just be limited to a few swash plate batches.
Like any machine though a few flights soon have things freeing up nicely.

I also went through every single ball end & re-sized the links to be a smooth, but not sloppy fit. Helps the machine feel right from the start.

Other than that get ready for some real, exciting fun as this machine goes very well. Got my new AXI motor to try today so should be a bit more fun thrown in!
.

Ian Contessa
Team Robbe SchluterUK
Midland Helicopters

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02-11-2006 03:04 PM  12 years agoPost 3
sparrow17

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thanks for info Coolice !

Ill look for some Tamiya Diff grease at my local hobby shop.
Does tri-flow eat plastic? I can under stand the metal to metal contacts.

Could I run the head with out blades at low speed to help loosen swash? Is this advisable?
I noticed the slot in my anti rotation bracket is very tight. I may have to file it a bit to loosen up travel.

What Axi are you gonna use? Is it the one posted in the other thread with video?

Spar~

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02-11-2006 04:46 PM  12 years agoPost 4
coolice

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Northamptonshire, England

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Hey,

No worries your welcome. As for Tri-Flow I'm not sure, I think I have heard something like that in the past. I never had any problems with it and at the time I used it I was flying plastic concept 60's.

Yes, running the machanics with no blades attached will help bed everything in nicely, with an IC machine you wouldn't be able to go to full power. But on an electric setup with govenor mode it's ok. I span mine up both with the head attached and without.
At the same time it helps you get familiar with electric models and before the Swift I'd never had experience of this size electric before.

The new motor I received today is indeed the AXI 2826-08 mentioned in the other topic. Just flown it today 3 times & it's great, a bit more torque than the stock motor for more security. Generates a little more noise compared to the last one, with a real whistle in flight but it performs well.
.

Ian Contessa
Team Robbe SchluterUK
Midland Helicopters

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02-11-2006 10:21 PM  12 years agoPost 5
SRH990

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Birmingham, UK

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I've used a white grease by Robbe which comes in a concertina pack and a long metal tube so you squeeze out the quantity you need, seems to work okay on my Swift (and Raptor 50, Hawk Pro etc.)

Ian, you went the Axi route too, mine arrived yesterday, fitted it with an 11T pinion but couldn't fly today so I'm hoping tomorrow isn't as bad as the forecast

Steve -Trex 700N, Trex 600N, Raptor 550E, 450SE, Mini Titan, Logo 5003D, Beam E4

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02-11-2006 11:26 PM  12 years agoPost 6
sparrow17

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Alrighty....I just got some Tamiya diff grease ! I guess I just apply it to the thrust race bearing only?! Should I lube up the feathering shaft as well?

oooh Axi !

Let me know how it works out as Im about to finalize my Swift motor selection. I was either going to the Orbit 25-10 or the ORK 1907/1.5Y so
more info on other motor combos would be nice.

Coolice** Is the noise you are refering to that high pitched wine I hear in the video posted in the other thread? I did think that was kinda loud.

BTW: how much is that AXI in US dollars?

Spar~

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02-12-2006 01:24 AM  12 years agoPost 7
wedge

rrElite Veteran

Victoria BC, Canada

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I heard that Moly lube is really good to use on the thrust bearings, I think that is the same stuff they use in Automotive distributors, for the points. Check your local auto supply to see if they have any.

Victoria BC, Canada, Century Swift,Trex SA 450, Hummingbird V3.

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02-12-2006 01:58 AM  12 years agoPost 8
HugeOne

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Quebec, Canada

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True, distributor lube is very good.

Macy people swear by Bosch grease. The 225mL tube is the size of a very large toothpaste
tube, Bosch p/n 1615430001

Raptor e620 w/V-bar, Tango 45-06, Phoenix 85HV, TrueRC 12S1P 4000mAh

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02-12-2006 10:04 AM  12 years agoPost 9
coolice

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Northamptonshire, England

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Hey Spar,

Great, yes lube up the feathering shaft also along with the rubber dampers. I just smear a light coating of grease on the spindle and around the dampers before seating them in the head block.
This way it stops the dampers grabbing in the plastic and they can flex freely.

The AXI is great, a nicely made motor that looks good to. Performance wise it's an excellent choice I think so far for the 4s1p setup's, the stock Century 3D motor I had while more than adequate lacked a little top end torque as you could bog it down a little if you weren't careful with the pitch management. Not a bad thing as it teaches you control, but for me I like a little more grunt. The AXI so far is giving me this, RPM can still can be dragged down with pitch if pushed but it will pull a couple of extra degree's of pitch before you notice it to much.

Your spot on it is the high pitched whine, but I think it's more of a whistle with the can rotating. Sounds good though, intimidating at first perhaps but great once your used to it.

Dollar wise it's £59.95 GBP's = $104.63 US (excluding postage costs)
Fit the 11 tooth pinion & off you go.

Hey Steve,

Yes, I decided to try it out after DorsetBoy tried it for me first
Glad I did now as it's proving to be a good motor without spending a fortune on extra stuff to compliment it.

From where I'm sitting mate if I'm not going out today then I don't think you are either
.

Ian Contessa
Team Robbe SchluterUK
Midland Helicopters

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02-12-2006 11:22 AM  12 years agoPost 10
Dorset Boy

rrApprentice

Dorset England

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[quote]Yes, I decided to try it out after DorsetBoy tried it for me first
Ian Don't worry we know our place on the team
We think our selfs very lucky to be your tester

Trev

Century Helicopters, Coolpower Fuel, Flight Power Batteries, CSM Gyros, Futaba from Hobby Hangar

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02-12-2006 01:45 PM  12 years agoPost 11
coolice

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Northamptonshire, England

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Hehehe, good show

Be good to compare similar setups but with differing ESC's.
.

Ian Contessa
Team Robbe SchluterUK
Midland Helicopters

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11-29-2006 10:08 PM  11 years agoPost 12
carlosk

rrNovice

Bergen, Norway

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What about White Lithium Grease? Will it do or is LiquidMoly a better choice?

I have been away from home but hope to be able to finish putting together my Swift next week.

I have a AXI 2826/08 with fan, 4S EVO20's and CC60. I have been reading on all the forums and hope that I have got most of the bugs identified before I start.

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12-01-2006 09:01 PM  11 years agoPost 13
Wheelhaus

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Denver

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Coolice's tips are spot on. Diff grease worls well because it can retain a good high pressure film.

Any good quality bearing grease will work very well as long as it's nice and thick. I use "Park Tools Poly Lube" from a high-end bicycle shop I used to wrench at. It's a dark green opaque grease that works well. Grease is simply a solid substance that holds oil. Don't use straight bearing oil as it is too thin and can be flung off at high rpm. I repacked my thrust and radial grip bearings (and any other bearings on the heli of which I could remove the shields) and packed them full of good quality grease. It's butter smoth now. For the thrust bearings I just packed it into the stamped ball carrier and onto each face. You don't want it squishing out everywhere, but you eant enough to fill the space between the balls.

Another tip...
For the one-way bearing the makes up the autorotation hub, do NOT use grease. Grease will make it too sticky and it won't release well enough if you need to autorotate. It's actually not a bearing at all but a series of small spring loaded roller clutches, looks just like a needle bearing.. Rotate it forward and the rollers grab the shaft as they're wedged and forced to bind up. The opposite way they simply drag or roll lightly against the main shaft shaft. For this, use tri-flow oil or another good quality bearing/gear oil. Gear oil is typically stickier and will resist fling better. You will need to occasionally put a drop of oil on the main shaft (and spin it to allow it to seep in) to keep the OWB lubed properly. This doesn't affect the large diameter shielded radial bearing, just the OWB in the main hub.

White lithium grease will work, but there are better options for bearings.
I'm not familiar with LiquidMoly.. Is it a chain lube? A purpose-designed bearing grease will still work better. Chain lubes are often thin and leave a "dry" film.

..........
Dave

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