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Other › Oil and Trex when and what do you use?
02-10-2006 10:41 AM  12 years agoPost 1
Tasteless

rrApprentice

Perth, WA - Australia

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I noticed in another post that someone routinely oils the the moving bits of the TRex.
Could some of the experienced people give me a heads up on:
What to oil?
What sort of oil?
How often?

Cheers
Tony

-=*As punishment write this out 50 times: the tail rotor blades spin up into the rotor wash *=-

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02-10-2006 10:48 AM  12 years agoPost 2
OICU812

rrMaster

Edson, Alberta, Canada

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By searching I found this thread here.

http://www.runryder.com/t230516p1/?...=lube+the+t-rex

...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars and frequency pins...

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02-10-2006 10:56 AM  12 years agoPost 3
Tasteless

rrApprentice

Perth, WA - Australia

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Thanks my search was on oil not lube I suppose that's an Aussie thing.
So Tri-Flow it seems is the way to go, dumber question what is tri-flow?

Cheers
Tony

-=*As punishment write this out 50 times: the tail rotor blades spin up into the rotor wash *=-

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02-10-2006 11:02 AM  12 years agoPost 4
AV8TOR

rrVeteran

Fort Worth, TX

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Get an oil that is a Moly/PTFE based lubricant.

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02-10-2006 01:03 PM  12 years agoPost 5
Caliber1

rrApprentice

Fort Worth, TX

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A lot of the guys in the Nitro world recommend ATF (automatic transmission fluid). This is a good bearing lube and many swear by it for their one way bearings. Read up on Tri-Flow. I believe that the experience on this is that it works well initially, but eventually gums up.

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02-10-2006 01:29 PM  12 years agoPost 6
whtbronco

rrApprentice

Winchester, Virginia USA

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Why not use a silicon lubricant. It won't hurt plastics and it does provide good lubrication.

FWIW, I have seldom oiled my Raptor 50. The exhaust does a nice job of it for me.

Chris Wish I was flying!

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02-10-2006 03:20 PM  12 years agoPost 7
martinic

rrKey Veteran

NB, Canada

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Singer Sewing Machine oil - doesn't attract dirt - everything stays nice and shiny, smooth running and goo free. It's a cheap, readily available, light machine oil. I lube the shafts and all bearings (just a drop or two as regular maintenance after each flying session).

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02-10-2006 08:29 PM  12 years agoPost 8
Ozydego

rrKey Veteran

Westerville, Ohio

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I use RC car oil now, and have used tri-flow in the past. basically, just dont use synthetic as it melts the plastic and rubber of tail belts.... I even oil my tail belt... it seems to make it run just a little smoother. I haven't had a problem attracting dirt, but I do clean off the bearings when I have to get past them for repairs..

But Honey, I can't live with just stock.....

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02-11-2006 11:30 AM  12 years agoPost 9
PanX

rrApprentice

Athens , Greece

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Singer Sewing Machine oil
i second that.. i use it before every fligth on my R50 too, six months now.. no dirt, no anything. Somewhere i saw an article suggesting that most tail/pulleys problems can overcome if you thoroughly spray the front tail pulley with D40 rotating the blades by hand. I did that.. and i can feel the tail system more smooth till then.

Panos, SV1COX
http://users.forthnet.gr/ath/pbog/

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02-11-2006 11:44 AM  12 years agoPost 10
OICU812

rrMaster

Edson, Alberta, Canada

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I would never and will never spray my belt drive with WD-40 but maybe that is just me. Dirt atraction that is imho. I will lube by tr shaft and swash ball with a few drops the very "odd time" with triflow and thats it, nothing else needed anywhere else imho.

...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars and frequency pins...

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02-11-2006 02:42 PM  12 years agoPost 11
lbowen

rrApprentice

York S. Carolina-USA

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I second the RC car oil - they run IN the dirt and their lube resists "attracting" grime LHS can often recommend what is a great RC car oil. Lubing fast moving potentially high friction/heat mech. items is something I have believed in and practiced for a LOT of years - Parts not lubed TEND to wear faster than lubed parts that even have some grime. Lube makes the engineering design work better/smoother with less power drain and often better control - cleaning after flying is IMO often a great way to post flight and notice ANY items that are still tight, right and ready for flight - or NOT!

lbowen

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02-11-2006 02:51 PM  12 years agoPost 12
Gary Hoorn

rrKey Veteran

Annapolis Maryland USA

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I agree with OICU812 in that excessive oiling is unnecessary. I use just a drop of Triflow on the mixer base, swashplate and the tairotor shaft. I do this maybe every 10 or 12 flights. I have found in hundreds of flights that this is sufficient.
Gary

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02-11-2006 03:16 PM  12 years agoPost 13
Pistol Pete

rrProfessor

Seffner, FL

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once you go with http://www.corrosionx.com you won't go back to anything else.

My Story...
My first electric plank (mini-supersporter) dived into a lake (with a little of my help) which I was not able to retrieve until the next day with a canoe due to some thunderstorm and sunset (we get them real bad in summer). I found it upside down with only the tail sticking out thanks to some algae growth. Everything had been underwater for well over 15 hours. I disassembled, and sprayed this stuff and to date still using ALL electronics. Plane wings had to be redone

Best lubricant I have come across so far.

IMHO

~~Enjoying the hobby one flight at a time~~

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02-11-2006 03:23 PM  12 years agoPost 14
Tasteless

rrApprentice

Perth, WA - Australia

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Well I went and got some natural light machine oil and just used a drop on each of the bearings a drop on the tail servo link arm where it's held mid boom and on the tail shaft.
The difference is noticeable it takes much longer to spin down, so less friction on the main bearing and the response in the tail hold is a little more accurate, it just feels better in a hover. I am still just hovering

I was brave and took my micro to a real Heli aviation engineer and asked him about this, he was OK with the choice of oil, checked all the bearings, he wanted to see how it was held together and suggested a drop per flight day on each bearing spun in.
I think he was concurring with lbowen on the post flight check just like any aviator or maintenance engineer.

So I will try it out and see what happens.

Cheers
Tony

-=*As punishment write this out 50 times: the tail rotor blades spin up into the rotor wash *=-

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02-11-2006 04:49 PM  12 years agoPost 15
deekoi515

rrApprentice

San Gabriel, CA - USA

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If i use the same oil i use for my paintball gun is that okay?

~OCHC~ Never regret. If it's good, it's wonderful. If it's bad, it's experience

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02-11-2006 07:42 PM  12 years agoPost 16
Notch

rrNovice

Riverside, CA, USA

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I tried the no-oil thing and had no luck with it. My Trex was hard to hold in a hover, twitchy, couldn't dial out the tail wag, etc. Then, with a couple of drops of tri-flow, it became rock stable. I'm an oiler. Just wipe the oily dirt off the surfaces and be done with it. Just my $.02

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02-11-2006 08:09 PM  12 years agoPost 17
martinic

rrKey Veteran

NB, Canada

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Notch, try the Singer Sewing Machine oil - it works and doesn't attract dust. Weird, but it works.

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02-11-2006 08:33 PM  12 years agoPost 18
lele

rrVeteran

italy

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I have been using for long time
a simple motor oil.
I got a used can in a nearby fuel station and what was left in the can
has been enough for long time, just a few drops on all metal moving parts every some flights. I also lube the ball joints.
I think that thin oild would just wash your machines.

Lele

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02-11-2006 08:37 PM  12 years agoPost 19
Notch

rrNovice

Riverside, CA, USA

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Thanks, martinic...I'll give it a try...

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02-11-2006 09:44 PM  12 years agoPost 20
Jay Mowl

rrApprentice

Owosso Mi. USA

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May sound silly but I use REM oil! It's gun oil W/teflon. Does not attract any dirt. Evaperates quick and leaves a teflon film on moving surfaces.

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