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HomeAircraftHelicopterHIROBOOther › Evo 90 is here
02-09-2006 08:47 PM  12 years agoPost 1
Rappy30

rrApprentice

South Riding, VA - US

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Kit just arrived and the rest is on it's way....

Here was the final purchase

Evo 90
OS 91 Szh
CY MPII
Raidx 690 Main
V blade 105 Tail
CSM 720 gyro w/9251
Hitec's 6965 for cyclics
Hitec 6975 for collective
Spare futaba 3151 for Throttle
Rev Max
Futaba 8x PCM rx
Fromeco Arizona Reg and 4800 Mah Relion Pack

Now the questions are as follows:

What, if anything, did those of you who have already built the model learn during the build process? Are there any pitfalls or hard to understand areas of the manual?

Also,

I can see the fuel tank has two tubes and a vent port....I am used to raptor setup and will be using a Header with this bird as well. Since i will be fueling through the header what do I do with the 2nd tube comming out of the main tank? Is it ok to just plug it up with a short piece of fuel line and a cap or would finding the appropriate size solid rod be better to replace the hollow one through the gromet?

Also, do you really have to take the carb off to get the Engine in the bird? This sounds like a huge pain in you-know-what trying to get that carb lined up and tightened again.....

All for now....thanks in advance...

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02-09-2006 09:19 PM  12 years agoPost 2
mrNoodles

rrProfessor

Borlänge, Sweden

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Sure you can plug one of the 2 pipes, and connect the muffler pressure to the plastic nipple on the upper rear of the fueltank.

I doubt you´ll get a engine in or out of it with the carb in place, removing the needles might do the trick, worth trying.

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02-09-2006 09:24 PM  12 years agoPost 3
SolarXtreme

rrVeteran

Arroyo Grande, CA

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I am interested in how well the new OS does in the Freya. 8:45 gearing has typically not been proper gearing for the older OS engines (C-Spec).

There are a lot of good EVO build tips on this site. Search for EVO 90 tips.
.

I picked a hell of a day to quit drinking

Avant EFX
Freya EVO

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02-09-2006 10:50 PM  12 years agoPost 4
RCtaz

rrVeteran

Leander, TX

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you need to change the gearing to 7.92 to get the best out of the OS. Why did you go with the 690's instead of the 710's????

~Texas Renegade Rotorz~

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02-09-2006 11:45 PM  12 years agoPost 5
mrNoodles

rrProfessor

Borlänge, Sweden

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Some OS users run 8.45 in theirs EVO´s as well.

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02-10-2006 12:49 AM  12 years agoPost 6
Crush

rrApprentice

York, PA

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I'm currently building an Evo90 and getting close to finishing. I was able to fit my YS91 without removing the carb. (Just removed the needles) I was wondering about that second opening in the tank. I was just going to use a small length of capped tubing. Overall, it was a very easy build. Very similar to my Evo 50's. I still need to order a few little things for mine. (header tank, remote glow, etc.) Getting very anxious to maiden this thing.

Have fun...

"Learning from mistakes gets expensive"

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02-10-2006 01:01 AM  12 years agoPost 7
Rappy30

rrApprentice

South Riding, VA - US

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RE:
you need to change the gearing to 7.92 to get the best out of the OS. Why did you go with the 690's instead of the 710's????
I wanted to run 105's on the Tail, that and everyone is out of stock on the Radix 110's...I tried zooms, eastcoast, HP, ricks, mta, and a few others....HP had 2 sets of the 690's so I grabbed a pair
I am interested in how well the new OS does in the Freya. 8:45 gearing has typically not been proper gearing for the older OS engines (C-Spec).
I am going to try it first using the 8:45, at 15000 engine rpm (peak rpm for the most HP on the SZ) that should yeild a head speed around 1775. Once I break the engine in I will set the limiter to 1800 so that when the engine bogs, it will bog into the peak hp range.

Similarly, a 7.92 would give about 1893 on the head at peak, so I would want to be running in the 1900+ which might be a bit fast, only time will tell.

One question on building the Main Tank. The Manual says to use 100-110mm length of tubing (I am not using the included tubing)....this seems a bit long, but, when I cut down the tubing so the clunk just reaches the rear of the tank it has a hard time folding forward to get to the front corners (say for nose down funnels)....any thoughts?

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02-10-2006 01:20 AM  12 years agoPost 8
SolarXtreme

rrVeteran

Arroyo Grande, CA

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I had to cut down my clunk line a couple times. I have cut mine down to 92mm. Seems to work a lot better than when I first built it at 100mm. At the original length it could get hung up on the front of the tank.
.

I picked a hell of a day to quit drinking

Avant EFX
Freya EVO

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02-10-2006 03:41 AM  12 years agoPost 9
SubSailor

rrVeteran

Austin, TX.

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This machine goes together very very well. Everything in my kit fit together like a glove. Ricks has a tip section at this site on building the Evo .90, go there and give it a read before you start. Good luck and enjoy!
John

Fromeco Field Rep.
A day without sunshine is, well.., alot like night time.

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02-10-2006 02:38 PM  12 years agoPost 10
Rappy30

rrApprentice

South Riding, VA - US

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One thing I noticed
The manual calls for loctite and CA glue in places but seems to ignore it others.

An example is this the call for loctite when attaching the body standoff's but not calling for it when you have metal to metal contact such as the lower cross members or the 3rd bearing block.

Is there a reason for this or should I not worry and put loctite everywhere there is metal to metal.

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02-10-2006 03:41 PM  12 years agoPost 11
rdalcanto

rrKey Veteran

Salt Lake City, UT

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Put locktite everywhere there is metal/metal. I also locktight the inner race of the bearings that support the tail rotor shaft and engine/clutch to the metal shafts, but not everyone does that - it makes it more difficult to take things apart, but avoids a lot of bearing problems that can develop in any heli if you don't.

Rick

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