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HomeAircraftHelicopterGasser Model RC HelicoptersOther › Removing the recoil hub G231
02-07-2006 03:40 PM  12 years agoPost 1
AceBird

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Utica, NY USA

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Could someone give me the heads up on removing the hub? Does it thread off (right or left threads?) Does it require heat (loc-tited)?

Thanks,

Ace

Ace
What could be more fun?

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02-07-2006 03:55 PM  12 years agoPost 2
Pre-Mix

rrApprentice

U.S.A.

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please be more specific
Hi Ace,
The "hub" what are you refering to, the flywheel? Please elaborate. Ive had my 231 apart so Im sure i can help, please be more specific.

Johan

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02-07-2006 05:42 PM  12 years agoPost 3
AceBird

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Utica, NY USA

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Hi Johan,

The hub that gets driven by the recoil. It is on top of the flywheel. I don't think I will have to remove the flywheel unless I end up mounting the timing pulley directly to it.

Thanks,

Ace

Ace
What could be more fun?

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02-07-2006 07:10 PM  12 years agoPost 4
rbort

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Franklin, MA - USA

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Just unscrew it
Nothing special here. It unscrews the correct way. I hold mine with a large adjustable wrench and it comes right off. Of course you need to secure the flywheel from turning to do this, and you can use the thread holes in the flywheel to mount a handle to it or put something in the hole in the flywheel to prevent it from turning (seen some recommendations of putting an allen wrench in it).

You can always heat it with the heat gun to make unscrewing it easier. Never use a torch or open flame to heat any motor part, is it will discolor it. Go with the heat gun, its enough for the job.

-=>Raja.

MA 1005 Hanson 280, 4210 flts
Spectra 27 3DMax, 3280 flts
Whiplash V1-2 Hanson 300, 1555 flts
Whiplash V2 Hanson 300, 393 flts

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02-07-2006 11:46 PM  12 years agoPost 5
Toadster25

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Iowa

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I broke a piece of the threads off of the flywheel when I tried putting an allen wrench through the flywheel to hold it from turning so be careful if doing that. I think that it prety much ruined my hanson ballanced flywheel since it isn't ballanced anymore with that piece missing.

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02-08-2006 08:28 AM  12 years agoPost 6
aileron bail

rrApprentice

The guy with the dog named Aileron

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Starter Dogs
Starter dogs.... Take a wooden dowel and put in the exhast port and turn the starter dog off and the same to tighten (dont monkey grip it down just lock tite it down snug)Hanson makes a metal one for the recoil part of the starter they come with plastic ones so its a nice up grade.

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02-08-2006 01:42 PM  12 years agoPost 7
AceBird

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Utica, NY USA

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Thanks for all who posted.

Anybody know what thread these are in the flywheel. I would suspect they are metric.

Ace

Ace
What could be more fun?

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02-08-2006 02:24 PM  12 years agoPost 8
rbort

rrProfessor

Franklin, MA - USA

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Not off the top of my head BUT
The bolts from my valve cover on my 82 Chevy Citation fit it. The car is long gone, but I still had some extra bolts around and they fit perfectly...

-=>Raja.

MA 1005 Hanson 280, 4210 flts
Spectra 27 3DMax, 3280 flts
Whiplash V1-2 Hanson 300, 1555 flts
Whiplash V2 Hanson 300, 393 flts

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02-10-2006 02:01 AM  12 years agoPost 9
GREYEAGLE

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Flat Land's

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Thread Size and Proceedure

Ace the thread size is 6mm, Easiest way I've found is too thread a couple of spare 6mm allen heads down into the bores and leave them up around 1/2". Pretty easy to locate spares in any community hardware. These are same mm as your exhaust manifold bolts. I then slip pretty good size screw driver or flat bar across the span beteen the two and rotate the geometry untill you can find a place on the back side of the block to back up the backer bar or screw driver against to stop the fly wheel rotation. I'ts seems to always be on the left side.

My trick is TO NOT use any metal to metal contact on the cast aluminum tangs protuding from the hub. Scroung around for a 1/2" x 1" oak to use as a lever and insert it between the tangs. On the intial try watch your knuckels and come up on it slowley to see if it'll go. You can try pine but better get a few spares made up. I just had one that said no-way. I parked my 400 watt copper over it for 5min and spooled right off, very easy. They have been installed with some form of anerobic thread locker.

greyeagle

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02-10-2006 02:49 AM  12 years agoPost 10
PaulH-MA

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Boston, MA

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I have found the best thing to do is go to your local auto parts store and buy a small harmonic balancer puller. You will probably need to go to a hardware store and get some 2"-3" long 6 mm bolts and some fender washers as well. Just thread the bolts through the puller and into the two holes on the flywheel.

Now you have handle to prevent the flywheel from rotating while you unscrew the pull-start hub. I generally use a large pair of channel-lock pliers for that.

An added benefit of using the puller is that you can then pop the flywheel off with minimal effort.

--Paul

TREX 450
Bergen Intrepid Gasser x2

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02-10-2006 04:25 AM  12 years agoPost 11
Chris Bergen

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cassopolis, MI USA

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Someone has a puller designed specifically for the flywheel AND fans, but the advertising limit has been reached. Maybe next month....

Chris D. Bergen

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02-10-2006 04:43 AM  12 years agoPost 12
Crazy Horse

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Orlando FL

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hehe now that was a discreet plug
nice TAC Chris

sponsored by generous people that give tips to thier limo driver

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02-18-2006 08:40 PM  12 years agoPost 13
AceBird

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Utica, NY USA

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Hey guys,

that was too easy, it came right off with very little effort. I made a spanner wrench and used a big adjustable after heating first. There didn't seem to be any thread lock and the threads in the starter hub are half gone! Does that sound normal for this part or were the threads stripped out in the tapping process of this hub?

Ace

Ace
What could be more fun?

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02-19-2006 01:02 AM  12 years agoPost 14
GREYEAGLE

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Flat Land's

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Sounds somewhat the norm: Usually the shaft appears sterile but the threadlocker is white or greyish in color and seems to adhears to the bore of the porous aluminum threads in the hub. THe tapered bore is quite deep and your looking into a some what blind area. Crank the lights up or grap yur mag lite. I usually spot just a bit of it on the shaft every on and off and use a brass suede brush on the crank end every time and keep cleaning till the bore is spotless. It' takes a bit of time. I believe youll see around 5- threads or so. You may wish to drop the hub in a baby food jar of acetone for a over niter to soften things up.

greyeagle

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