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HomeAircraftHelicopterAudacity Models P6 Pantera - Tiger 50 › How to get aftermarket blades to fold back in caddy with 3D grips?
02-06-2006 02:13 PM  12 years agoPost 1
bsc

rrNovice

Villa Park, IL

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For those of you who are running TT blades and the new 3D grips, how are you getting them to fold back in the caddy? Are you filing the corners off of the blades to make them clear the spindle bolt, or is there another trick? Is it safe to file the corners of the blades off?

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02-06-2006 02:25 PM  12 years agoPost 2
jvanscoyk

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Tucson, AZ

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I'm running the new blade grips with the 6mm spindle and flying with TT blades an I have no issues at all folding them back.

Do you have the plastic spacers on the top and bottom of each blade between the root of the blade and the blade grip?

You should be able to see them in this picture.

Jim

must go faster, must go faster.........

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02-07-2006 02:42 AM  12 years agoPost 3
darkfa8

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Brick, NJ - USA

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Jim, what was the reason you removed the phillips screws from the inside of the main grips that retain the outer bearing?

- Dan Goldstein
Team Revolectrix

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02-07-2006 02:49 AM  12 years agoPost 4
bsc

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Villa Park, IL

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Yeah, the spacers are in there. With the original grips, the blades would hit the spindle, but I was able to force the blades through the rotation which grinded off a bit of the corners. With the new grips, there is no way that I could force the blades through the rotation. I would have to file off what appears to be a significant amount of the blades to allow them to rotate.

Attached are the pictures. Let me know if anything looks incorrect.

Here is a blade without rotation. Notice how close they are to begin with:

Here is the blade with rotation and hitting the spindle bolt:

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02-07-2006 02:51 AM  12 years agoPost 5
bsc

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Villa Park, IL

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Jim, what was the reason you removed the phillips screws from the inside of the main grips that retain the outer bearing?

- Dan Goldstein -
The installation instructions by JB said to throw away the screws. That's why I didn't use them.

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02-07-2006 02:59 AM  12 years agoPost 6
jvanscoyk

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Tucson, AZ

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That is really weird.
I have never run into a clearance problem like that.
I run the identical blades too.

And bsc is right. John's instructions say to not use the screws.

Jim

must go faster, must go faster.........

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02-07-2006 03:05 AM  12 years agoPost 7
ProModeler

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Sanford, FL (Orlando area)

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Hey, I'd like to see the pictures but can't. How about sending them to me directly please so we can get this resolved ASAP.

info at genesishobby dot com


John Beech
AMA # 47381
IRCHA #745

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02-07-2006 03:18 AM  12 years agoPost 8
darkfa8

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Brick, NJ - USA

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why throw away the screws?

- Dan Goldstein
Team Revolectrix

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02-07-2006 03:37 AM  12 years agoPost 9
jvanscoyk

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Tucson, AZ

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When I had the screws installed with the new spindle, thrust bearings and radial bearings I had a lot of binding.

If you look at the picture you can see 2 things. The radial bearing protruding ever so slightly and that in reality it looks like my TT blades are touching when I fold them back too. I'm guessing manufacturing tolerances of the blades account for that.


Jim

must go faster, must go faster.........

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02-07-2006 04:03 AM  12 years agoPost 10
KYLE 05

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Houston,Tx - USA

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Mine hit as well
Using 3d grips and TT blades,they would only fold in one direction not both and Sab's hit both sides. No screws,it hits the spindle bolts.

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02-07-2006 05:11 PM  12 years agoPost 11
hootowl

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Garnet Valley, Pa.

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Dan,

I also left off the screws.

1) They don't do anything

2) The holes were originally put in the mold before the spindle/grip attachment design was complete. The design procludes the requirement for the screws

3) If you install the screws it will bind up the bearings.

Audacity needs better documentation... I have been saying this for quite some time. Relying on internet postings can lead to mistakes. There are NO writtne instructions on most of the unlisted parts.

Wolves don't lose sleep over the opinions of sheep

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02-07-2006 05:17 PM  12 years agoPost 12
ProModeler

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Sanford, FL (Orlando area)

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I have to agree with Hootowl. Depending on the instructions on the Internet isn't working as well as I'd hoped and thus, I'm working on the instructions for the grip spindle kit as we speak!


John Beech
AMA # 47381
IRCHA #745

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02-07-2006 05:23 PM  12 years agoPost 13
darkfa8

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Brick, NJ - USA

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do these screws adversely effect the stock, original grip bearings?

i still have the stock ones on, but do have the 3d hd grip kit on the side for a future crash

- Dan Goldstein
Team Revolectrix

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02-08-2006 01:17 AM  12 years agoPost 14
bsc

rrNovice

Villa Park, IL

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Hey, I'd like to see the pictures but can't. How about sending them to me directly please so we can get this resolved ASAP.
I sent you the pictures, John. Let us know what you think.

Kyle05, did you do any modifications to get your TTs and SABs to fold back?

Thanks,
Brian

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02-08-2006 02:45 AM  12 years agoPost 15
hootowl

rrProfessor

Garnet Valley, Pa.

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Dan yes you use those screws on the stock grips only.

Wolves don't lose sleep over the opinions of sheep

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02-08-2006 03:30 AM  12 years agoPost 16
Herc

rrKey Veteran

Cranbrook, BC - Canada

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My SABs don't fold back either, well only one way. I just mark the head button and fold them that direction always. None of my wooden blades will fold back either but I just sand about 1/16 off the edge of the root and they work fine. Be interesting to find out why this is happening. I thought I was the only one.

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02-08-2006 05:26 AM  12 years agoPost 17
KYLE 05

rrApprentice

Houston,Tx - USA

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bsc
No,I did not mod the blades. I guess it depends on the blade mfg. as to how much material is left behind the bolt. I just removed the blades(Sab's) before transporting. Personally I would not touch the blades,but that is each person decision. Its a PITA,but I like the way the Sab's fly.

Later,Kyle.

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02-08-2006 03:04 PM  12 years agoPost 18
Herc

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Cranbrook, BC - Canada

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I have no problem taking a little off of wood blades to make them fit but I would definitely not touch any of my CF blades.

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02-08-2006 04:15 PM  12 years agoPost 19
hootowl

rrProfessor

Garnet Valley, Pa.

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I don't feel accurately sanding that ridge off carbon blades would create any issues. Lightly removing the outer resin in that area would not effect strength as long as it's minimal and doesn't cut into the inner fibers. I'm talking about the types that have that thin ridge. I would not sand a carbon blade that doesn't have that ridge.

Another fix would be to remove a small amount of material off the tops of the cap screws or use a different style of screw, possibly a hex head.

Another possible mod would be slightly thinner washers under the spindle bolts. They seem to be plenty thick as it is.

My Maverik G4's fold fine with no mods.

Wolves don't lose sleep over the opinions of sheep

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02-08-2006 04:24 PM  12 years agoPost 20
Herc

rrKey Veteran

Cranbrook, BC - Canada

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Let me expand a little more on the CF blade mod. I wouldn't take any off the CF blades because of their beautiful finish, even at the root, not because of any structural concerns. I just find most of the CF blades so nicely finished. I can't even imagine guys doing blade scrapes with their blades! Kind of like guitarists throwing their axes through amps!

It will be interesting to see if my new (old style) V-Blades fold okay.

Shayne

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