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Home✈️Aircraft🚁HelicopterHIROBOOther › Evo 50 won't start...One-way problem?
01-15-2006 09:49 PM  13 years ago
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GScott

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Lewis Center, OH

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Evo 50 won't start...One-way problem?
I had my Evo 50 out for 2 flights today and I noticed something strange. One the first flight it started up fine but even with the throttle all the way down the blades still spun. I attributed it to a minor glitch and flew that tank. One the next start I got a very brief throttle rev (about 1 second, just enough to scare me) and the blades spun again with no throttle. I flew that tank and decided to call it a day. When I drained th tank and attempted to start the engine to burn off the remaining fuel it really got strange. Now when I apply the starter the head visibly jerks like the starter is actually spinning the head. At this point I couldn't get it started and now I'm wondering what is going on. Any ideas?

Thanks.
Gary
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01-15-2006 09:55 PM  13 years ago
bigblock

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sweden

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Gary, I think its time for a new clutch.
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01-15-2006 10:52 PM  13 years ago
z11355

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New England

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yup. your clutch is gone.

drop the engine and you'll see cracks in the clutch
where the legs pivot.
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01-16-2006 12:07 AM  13 years ago
GScott

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Lewis Center, OH

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Thanks for your help guys. I guess it's time to price out a clutch

I've got less than 10 gallons through this Evo. Is it normal for the clutch to go so soon?
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01-16-2006 12:12 AM  13 years ago
z11355

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New England

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thats a bit young for a clutch to go.

they are about 35 dollars.
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01-16-2006 12:19 AM  13 years ago
SUB RAPTOR

rrApprentice

Galway Ireland

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maybe the fan has come lose pushing the clutch up into the bell. had this happen with mine
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01-16-2006 02:05 AM  13 years ago
spritefiend

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Camarillo, CA

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that sucks... i had mine go out before the first flight of the day. it started for about 10 seconds and the head was spinning, then wouldnt start again.

didnt figure out what happened until i looked down at the clutch and one side was lower than the other, turned out the arm broke off completely and was just sitting there.

this is one of the biggest b!tches of a failure at the field, i now keep an extra clutch and bell available in the event this happens again.

edit: also, there was a thread around here somewhere on the possibility of a fault batch of clutches or something to that nature, some guy blew through 5 or so of them on one of his helicopters, i will search for it.
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01-16-2006 05:08 AM  13 years ago
GScott

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Lewis Center, OH

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Well now I have a new problem. The set screw on the starter coupling has stripped and I can't get the engine out. I tried a bunch of things tonight but nothing worked. I guess tomorrow I'll have to try and drill the screw out. Anyone have any suggestions?
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01-16-2006 12:06 PM  13 years ago
littlepiston

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Carlsbad, New Mexico

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http://www.wihatools.com/263sermm.htm


you need thess bad

to get it out ,,,,dremal dinond bit and some time
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01-16-2006 02:41 PM  13 years ago
Mr.Green

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Kaysville, Utah

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I think drilling out the set screw is your only option. I had the same problem before, and drilling out the set screw was all I could do to get it off. Hopefully you haven't already placed your order for parts, as your likley going to need a new 6mm starter coupling. It's hard to drill out the set screw and not damage the threads.
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01-16-2006 02:46 PM  13 years ago
z11355

rrMaster

New England

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here's a novel idea......

go to http://www.mcmaster.com and get some LEFT-handed drill bits.

heat up the setscrew nice and hot (soldering iron) and
drill out which should cause the setscrew to back out instead
of mangling everything.
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01-16-2006 03:28 PM  13 years ago
GScott

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Lewis Center, OH

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Thanks again. Unfortunateley I already have the Wiha hex drivers and it still stripped. I tried drilling it out this morning with a cobalt bit but the bit was a little dull. I guess I'll be looking for some left handed screw removers or at the very least a new cobalt drill bit.
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01-16-2006 04:05 PM  13 years ago
tchavei

rrProfessor

Portugal

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There is one way but you'll ruin your clutch shaft for sure. In my case I was able to remove the hex but the blue loctite was tuffer than I though and it made the hex adapter removal impossible. I tried a blowtorch, hairdryer, soldering iron and nothing. Finally I inserted a screwdriver into the hole and forcef the hex adapter to turn (left & right) until the seal broke and the engine droped out. The clutch shaft was never the same again (0,25mm runout) but heck, what else could I have done besides taking the frames apart?

Cheers
Tony

--------------------
"Perfection and patience usually walk side by side..."
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01-16-2006 05:34 PM  13 years ago
Helinutnz

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below 42 South

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same here.
I got a bone carver mate of a mate to grind it out with a diamond carving tool tip on a dremmel. These suckers are almost impossible to drill out with an ordinary bit. Takes time and patience. I didn't have a spare hex starter coupling so I drilled the other side and tapped it with a new thread and inserted a new QUALITY grub screw. I also flattened the end with my grinder very carefully so the grub screw has a very solid pinch on the start shaft without having to be over tight as the SS is very hard and a point on a normal grub screw doesn't hold as well as it could. This has worked well for me. I also put a grub screw back in the bad side with JB weld for balance.

I got a new coupling and replaced it a while ago. The stock hirobo grub screws won't take a lot of force before stripping out the hex as they feel loose on the hex tool. Always have quality hardened hex tools. The normal hex tools do not belong on heli's.....anywhere.

I bought about $200 worth of grub screws,cap screws, nylocks etc of all shapes and sizes common to my hirobo's and replace with these after maintainence or a dirt nap. They are top quality hardened steel screws etc. RTL fasteners and Mcmaster carr.

Good luck.
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01-16-2006 08:28 PM  13 years ago
rob_jones

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Perry, GA

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I think I'm the guy spritefiend is referring to. There was never any confirmation of a bad batch of clutches. That was purely my theory on why I kept breaking so many (especially since it doesn't seem to be a widespread problem and I take great care to not abuse them).

As suggested, make sure the nut hasn't simply backed off the crankshaft and let the fan unscrew and jam the clutch. This can happen. It's easy to check, too. Just look at the space between the bottom of the fan hub and the front bearing of the engine. This is easily visible without taking anything apart. If there is a gap, the fan has unscrewed. If there is no gap, you have a broken clutch.

I've gotten good at swapping clutches and do it at the field in about 20 minutes. I have also had the set screw in the starter coupler strip. I tried to use JB Weld to "glue" an old allen wrench into the set screw, then apply a little heat to loosen it. Sometimes it works, but it's not reliable. If you can find a small enough screw extractor, you should be able to get it out (especially if you use some heat). I had a particularly stubborn one that forced me to split the frames to get the engine out, then cut the coupler off. FWIW: If you need a coupler in a hurry and can't find one, a V1 Raptor coupler fits.
Blade 550X, T-Rex 450 Pro FBL
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01-16-2006 09:21 PM  13 years ago
spritefiend

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Camarillo, CA

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rob_jones
i had to look at your posts to realize you were bimmerm3, of which i actually missed on your sig yea, your post was the one i was talking about
I've gotten good at swapping clutches and do it at the field in about 20 minutes.
lol.. THAT is funny
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01-16-2006 11:45 PM  13 years ago
GScott

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Lewis Center, OH

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Definately the clutch. I was finally able to drill out the set screw (2 cobalt bits later). When I removed the engine the clutch was actually broken into 2 pieces. What really sucked was the weather was great today and it may be months before I see the sun again
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