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02-07-2006 04:55 PM  12 years agoPost 41
MAX NITRO

rrApprentice

Armadale Western Australia

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Sparrow nearly finished
Finished the airframe today, thought I would share some pics

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02-07-2006 05:23 PM  12 years agoPost 42
balbs

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Los Angeles, CA

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THAT IS DOPE!!!

Balbs

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02-07-2006 10:30 PM  12 years agoPost 43
cody69

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adelaide ,south australia

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Lets us know how it flys max nitro. A couple of us are having problems with ours ( tail bobbing up and down motion )

Watch the pins in the head 2, they fall out quite easy.

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02-08-2006 06:15 AM  12 years agoPost 44
MAX NITRO

rrApprentice

Armadale Western Australia

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I was wondering about the pins, they are only pressed in about 4mm but they feel tight.
I should have the rest of the gear soon, I'll post a vid.

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02-08-2006 07:13 AM  12 years agoPost 45
Logieberra

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Canberra, Australia

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Great pics, thanks Keep us posted please.

Tip of the Day: ADDICTION? "Buy Align case, lock it up, hand over key."

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02-08-2006 12:03 PM  12 years agoPost 46
cody69

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adelaide ,south australia

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The pins are almost impossible to keep in the head. They need to be longer so there is more contact area for glue or loctite to hold on to.If you can find a longer piece of rod you would be better off changing them. If they fall out in flight you can guess what will happen.

If it flys like mine the video will be hell funny.....You jumping up and down on it

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02-08-2006 12:14 PM  12 years agoPost 47
MAX NITRO

rrApprentice

Armadale Western Australia

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How tight are your pins?
I had to press mine in using a bench vice, they seem very tight.

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02-08-2006 12:18 PM  12 years agoPost 48
MAX NITRO

rrApprentice

Armadale Western Australia

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On another note,
has anyone tried the new CSM 420SL'T' gyro? apparently it has new software for better performance on small electric helis.
Or should I stick with the o'l 401?
I have ordered HDS877 micro digi servo's all round.

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02-08-2006 01:16 PM  12 years agoPost 49
cody69

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adelaide ,south australia

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They had to be pushed in quit hard. Used loctite on them..still fell out.
Who did you get your sparrow from ?

hds 877 not to bad..

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02-08-2006 02:08 PM  12 years agoPost 50
MAX NITRO

rrApprentice

Armadale Western Australia

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http://www.wattsuprc.com.au
Got the $380 package with motor/speedy
Got the servo's there too. I'll give the flightpower 1300's a go.
I also want to try the 420Sl'T' gyro.

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02-08-2006 02:22 PM  12 years agoPost 51
cody69

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adelaide ,south australia

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Im using the 401 with the hds 877 on the tail. HS56 on the swash.
Im thinking the blades are causing the problem with the heli, might chop some trex blades down to try, so we will see what happens.

The tail isnt going to last to long , so might mod the frame to take a trex boom and tail. Just will use the shorter belt and the tail blades from the sparrow.

I got the $330 package from wattsup.

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02-10-2006 09:40 AM  12 years agoPost 52
cody69

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adelaide ,south australia

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Max nitro, got yours flying yet?

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02-10-2006 10:20 AM  12 years agoPost 53
MAX NITRO

rrApprentice

Armadale Western Australia

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Waiting on 420sl 4e version and the flightpower packs, should be flying by next weekend

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02-11-2006 07:16 AM  12 years agoPost 54
Hutu

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Barcelona ( spain )

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Hi.

I've already flown my Sparrow

I've made some hovering at home and a few ff flights outdoor.
Hovering is not easy, it's quite dificult to keep it in one spot and in FF flight it pitches up.

Tail is the best I've ever flown in an electric microheli. With a Futaba GY 240 it's rocksolid and the response is quick and precise.

I'm not a 3D flyer and The Sparrow is a pure 3D microheli, so I guess I'll have to get used to it and keep practicing with the T-Rex untill
I'm good enough to fly the Sparrow.

In my opinion the mechanics in this heli are great, all alluminium and CF, but I had to solve a few problems when I was mounting it.
I had to glue the pins with green loctite, and there is slop where the hub slides trough the pins...

Oscar

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02-11-2006 08:51 PM  12 years agoPost 55
cody69

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adelaide ,south australia

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The tail has to much slop between the guide pin and the slider. 1mm pin in a 2mm slot.Very poor design.

" The Sparrow is a pure 3D microheli " Its way to slow in cyclic control to be a pure 3d microheli.

I used 620 loctite on the pins, still fell out.....

If you think it has slop now, wait to you fly it a few times. Its a real pleasure to fly when the ball link falls of the swash as the angle there its on is way to much.

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02-12-2006 05:18 AM  12 years agoPost 56
MAX NITRO

rrApprentice

Armadale Western Australia

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There is some red heatshrink tubing that comes with the kit, it is supposed to go on the tail slider pin, reduces the gap quite well.
May have to glue the pins in somehow, can't wait to see how mine goes

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02-12-2006 10:01 AM  12 years agoPost 57
cody69

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adelaide ,south australia

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I didnt get any heat shrink with mine.

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02-12-2006 11:08 PM  12 years agoPost 58
Hutu

rrNovice

Barcelona ( spain )

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Hi.

Heatsink came with mine but I used another one I had for electric stuf
and no slop there... I also glued all the ball-links just in case...
What didn't come with mine was the mainshaft. I'm still waiting for an answer to the e-mail I sent them
I had to do my own mainsahft with hardened steel and the help of a friend who has mechanic tools. it's working good for now and no vibrations by the moment.
The pins I glued with the green loctite are still in place.

Today I made 3 fast ff flights, each one with a 2200 12C lipo pack from Himodel and had a 15 minute flight with each one. The faster it flies and the more rpm's, the better it goes. This heli likes to fly fast...

Too fast for me...

I don't like the tail bouncing up and down and nose up in ff flights. The only way the tail doesn't bounce is when it goes fast, and to avoid nose up I have to keep the elevator TX stick always pitching down...

I'm not into 3D, but i said it was a pure 3D heli because it has the same rotor head that the Hornet 3DX has and I beleive the Hornet 3DX is a 3D heli, or not?

Oscar

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02-13-2006 04:15 AM  12 years agoPost 59
cody69

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adelaide ,south australia

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"I also glued all the ball-links just in case".... Hutu, what part did you glue?

You have to get the head speed to 3000rpm+ to get rid of the nodding it does...There's no way in hell I will do that sort of head speed on a set of woodies.

Dont see why i should buy a set of carbons for it just to get it flying.

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02-13-2006 05:35 AM  12 years agoPost 60
MAX NITRO

rrApprentice

Armadale Western Australia

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3000 is fine for those woodies, they are too short to apply a lot of force even at that rpm, I will be bumping the headspeed up to get the best cyclic response even at 3000rpm.

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