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HomeAircraftHelicopterMain Discussion › metal servo arm question,,,
11-12-2005 07:52 AM  12 years agoPost 1
Gearhead

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eeeeerrrrrr

does anyone make metal servo arms that are 90 degrees to the servo "when all trims and sub-trims are set at neutral (0)" ???

I'm a little upset with JR, I have their latest and greatest metal servo arms and 2 arms needs 72% of sub-trim to get them 90 degrees to the servo,,, (JR servos too)


Jim

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11-12-2005 08:03 AM  12 years agoPost 2
Gearhead

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no,,, I need long (25mm from center of screw to center of bal) 1 sided metal arms for my Raven..

Jim

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11-12-2005 08:06 AM  12 years agoPost 3
Gearhead

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LOL,,, that's why I'm asking..

Jim

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11-12-2005 08:42 AM  12 years agoPost 4
Phil_Mart

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Newcastle UK

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Have you tried the servo arms from Quick UK?

I guess you could always email them and ask the question. I've always found them a very helpful bunch

Philip Martin.

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11-12-2005 10:09 AM  12 years agoPost 5
ARMSMASTER

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spokane, wa

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why do you not just get a heavy duty set of dubro arms for JR. They are plenty strong and long enough for the job.

Life is like a box of chochlates!

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11-12-2005 01:10 PM  12 years agoPost 6
SteveH

rrProfessor

Texas

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Jim,

Try swaping sides with the servos...that will put the arm on the opposite side of the servo and may get it a lot closer. Just a thought.

The government cannot give you anything without first taking it from someone else.

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11-12-2005 09:14 PM  12 years agoPost 7
Jasper7

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Birmingham , UK

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Hi

Jr Servos have an Odd number of Sprockets, turn the arm 180 deg and push back on

Steve

Jasper 7
T-Rex 700N
T-Rex 600N
T-Rex 450Pro

Citizen Number: 00212

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11-12-2005 09:35 PM  12 years agoPost 8
AlanR8

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Saddleworth near Manchester (UK)

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Why metal arms?

Surly it's best to have a designed in point of weakness to protect the servo in a crash......

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11-12-2005 10:19 PM  12 years agoPost 9
Phil_Mart

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Newcastle UK

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Err, one sided servo arms cant be turned round, cos then the arm would be on the wrong side of the servo!

And, the last place I would want a breakable point, crash or not, is on a servo link. Little point like that have a habit of failing when you least expect it


Philip Martin.

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11-12-2005 10:27 PM  12 years agoPost 10
ESWLFSE

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Liberty Hill, TX

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I can't see a standard plastic link failing under normal loads or they wouldn't be included with the servos. I haven't stripped a set of gears yet, but I've broken some output arms. The round, 4, or 6 sided arms are the only way to get a good setup unless you're really lucky.

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11-12-2005 10:40 PM  12 years agoPost 11
Rotoman

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Coeur d Alene , ID

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This is not a fix for Jim's troubles. This is more of a follow up question that may hold the fix for this trouble. When I regeared my metal geared Hitecs it was a pretty simple matter. My question is. Can the final output gear be rotated around so that with trial and error the output splines will eventually allow the 90 degree output that Jim is looking for? This is hard to explain and I hope some smart guys can follow what I'm doing my darndest to describe. Seems if you can rotate the output gear with the splines that eventually a person could hit on the right combination? Maybe the gears are not adjustable in this regard. I know when I regeared my Hitecs I thought it was going to be a big hassle and I had the job done in about 30 minutes on three servos. I never had to do anything special like using subtrims to get the angles correct. Good luck.

Bent,broke, blown...I'm having fun!

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11-12-2005 11:06 PM  12 years agoPost 12
Silvashadow

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Kent, UK

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Wasp......have you tried the Century arm made for JR servo's? I've used the ones they make for Futaba servo's on my Pred and they were spot on.

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11-12-2005 11:10 PM  12 years agoPost 13
ESWLFSE

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Liberty Hill, TX

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I haven't taken many servos apart but I think the output gear is indexed to the pot such that it will only go on one way. So you have to get it right with the arms.

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11-12-2005 11:24 PM  12 years agoPost 14
jetranger

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PERHAM M.E.

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centered arms
Some times you can never get the servo arm centered. Then the only way to get it centered with out using trim, is to center the stick. Take the back off the TX and where the stick pot is mounted in the gimbal, loosen the gimbal where it holds the pot shaft and rotate the shaft to center the servo, then retighten. This works with out any trim settings, but if you switch the servo to another servo that one may be off center. On the older servos you could take the case off and recenter the servo pot to get it centered.

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11-13-2005 08:33 AM  12 years agoPost 15
Gearhead

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I swapped the servos as Steve H suggested, that was the simplest thing to do (I don't know why I didn't thing to do it myself), that got the sub-trims down a lot, thanks Steve !!

still it would be nice to have servo arms that mount 90 degrees without sub-trims !!

Jim

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11-13-2005 03:03 PM  12 years agoPost 16
zoom boy

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N.E. Lincolnshire UK

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Jetranger, messing with the pots on the tx seems like a very bad idea, sure it would work, but if you have more than one model and its a computer set, then you will cause havoc to the settings of all the other models

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11-13-2005 05:23 PM  12 years agoPost 17
SteveH

rrProfessor

Texas

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Jetranger,

I agree with Zoomboy, changing the pot center on transmitter is something you should never do. It will change all other models programmed into the TX, as it will permantly change the center pulse width of that channel from the standard 1.5 millisecond.

The government cannot give you anything without first taking it from someone else.

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11-14-2005 04:07 PM  12 years agoPost 18
ARMSMASTER

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spokane, wa

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I find it interesting all of the suggestions that this one simple question has brought up. I do not know why this had to get so diffacult. The instructions in the tiger 50 manual clearly explaines the proper procedure to use. It even states to use the Dubro heavy duty servo arms. The front cyclic\collective arm needs to be 23mm out from center, and the two other servo's need to be 20mm out. If arms are not ninty degrees then use sub trim. You will never need to add so much subtrim that it would limit your overall servo travel. I think that is why they include instructions in the kit. Besides, John has done a great job on the instructions. I have not ever seen a instruction manual that is more complete. When I had my new hawk pro the new instruction manual was so incomplete no beginner would be able to figure anything out. The manual for the hawk IV, and the hawk sport were written very well. So I guess it depends on how much effort the manufacturer wants to go through. But John from Audacity has gone above and beyond what is in most instruction manuals. Also if you still have questions about set up just call John. He will be glad to personally answer any and all questions you may have. You will never get that kind of service from any other manufacturer\importer. If you did not know it John Beech is the owner of Audacity. I am just adding my thoughts. I often read these threads and find it funny how far one little question gets stretched.

Life is like a box of chochlates!

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11-14-2005 07:23 PM  12 years agoPost 19
Gearhead

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ARMSMASTER,,, nothing like promoting the product ,,, but my thread has nothing to do with the brand of heli,,,

now, if you are trying to tell me that the Dubro heavy duty servo arms mount 90 degrees on the JR servos "with no sub trim",,, then please do...

Jim

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11-14-2005 11:41 PM  12 years agoPost 20
ESWLFSE

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Liberty Hill, TX

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If arms are not ninty degrees then use sub trim. You will never need to add so much subtrim that it would limit your overall servo travel.
So there is no problem adding 50+ points of subtrim?? I was taught the less the better and I hope I didn't just waste my time getting mine all within 5 points of zero by playing with output arms for hours.

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HomeAircraftHelicopterMain Discussion › metal servo arm question,,,
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