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HomeAircraftHelicopterMain Discussion › Rebuilding a YS91
11-12-2005 07:41 PM  12 years agoPost 21
Furious Predator

rrProfessor

Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

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its not a dumb idea, that type of stuff is used a lot, just in this application it may not be the best thing. also make sure when you put the piston back into the linner, that the opened edge of the ring does not cross a port, the wing will open up a little, and jam itself, then you might break the ring trying to get it out, like i did.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

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11-12-2005 08:13 PM  12 years agoPost 22
dgshaffer

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New Jersey

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so slide it up inside the liner then turn it into it's proper orientation. Sounds simple enough.

Famous last words after "Hey guys... Watch this!"

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11-12-2005 09:57 PM  12 years agoPost 23
rdalcanto

rrKey Veteran

Salt Lake City, UT

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so slide it up inside the liner then turn it into it's proper orientation. Sounds simple enough.
Actually, you will already have the connecting rod and piston on the crank before you slide the liner down. Just make sure the piston is in with the break in the ring facing about 8 o'clock, 12 being the front of the engine when looking down on it (you only have two choices).

Rick

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11-12-2005 10:22 PM  12 years agoPost 24
dgshaffer

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New Jersey

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Good point I forgot that the connecting rod would have already been attached.

Does anyone scuff the inside of the sleve to break down any glazing that may have built up?

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11-13-2005 12:25 AM  12 years agoPost 25
mdu6

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Montreal

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I don't like the work scuff !

I normaly clean it with WD40 and then use some Klotz oil on some soft coton rag to wipe it before resassembly.

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11-13-2005 03:11 AM  12 years agoPost 26
Ralphw

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Spring, TX

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dgshaffer,

I recently did my YS with the ceramics from RC-Bearing.com and helped my buddy do the complete rebuild on his YS. It's a piece of cake and I agree on almost everything said thus far on the thread.

One thing I did a little different was to heat the case but NOT chill the bearing. The primary reason for this was that I like to fit the main bearing on the crankshaft and use the crankshaft (which is kept nicely aligned by the new front bearing) as a sort of drift pin to keep the alignment on the new main bearing as it's seated. This ensures a nice square seating on the main bearing. If you freeze the main bearing first, you'll have a hell of a time getting the crankshaft through it until it warms up a bit. Maybe a bit of overkill, but it works for me .

The ceramics I got from RC Bearing are excellent quality and the price couldn't be beat ($28 and change shipped).

Hope that helps,

Ralph W.
"Life's Short, Fly Fast"

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11-13-2005 04:40 AM  12 years agoPost 27
dgshaffer

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New Jersey

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I've bailed on the freezer idea. What you guys are saying makes too much sense.

How many flights on the new ceramics? What are the advantages?

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11-13-2005 09:02 AM  12 years agoPost 28
Furious Predator

rrProfessor

Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

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the advantage is that...well...its ceramic, it wont corrode, so longer life.
also, from what i know, they are used it VERY HIGH SPEED and very HI HEATapplications, like in a turbine. problem is, a turbine doesn't pound a bearing like our engines do, so even though its rated for hi heat and rpm, i dont know how it would do under a shock load. just have to find someone that has worn one out.

i myself have a question, where the heck do you people get them? i hear about them all the time, but i have never heard or seen a supplier.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

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11-13-2005 09:46 AM  12 years agoPost 29
crowfly

rrVeteran

Pleasant View, TN U.S.A.

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http://www.rc-bearings.com

If God had meant for man to fly, he would have given him more money

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11-13-2005 01:22 PM  12 years agoPost 30
dgshaffer

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New Jersey

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Thanks for the link. I ordered a set of the ceramics to try out.

I also received a PM from Jason WAI on a NIP piston/liner/ring combo he had on eBay so I bought that as well. Thanks Jason!

Now for the gasket set.

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11-17-2005 11:21 PM  12 years agoPost 31
dgshaffer

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New Jersey

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Piston, ring, and liner showed up today Thank you Jason!

Jason went out of his way to ship the package in a way where the FRIGGIN US Postal Service could leave it at my home. This was a great help. I've stopped ordering from any company that ships via the USPS. Their limited hours are just too short for the working man.

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11-27-2005 04:15 PM  12 years agoPost 32
dgshaffer

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New Jersey

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Operation was a sucsess!

Following all of the tips given here it was a breeze! 1/2 hour from start to finish. Not having a small torch I used the oven technique and the inner bearing poped right out. I also used the tip on using the crank shaft to put the new inner ceramic in place.

With all the fantastic ideas given here it couldn't have gone better. Thank you all for your help!

The only mishap was that I broke off two of the fan blades trying to get the fan hub loose. Now I can't test fly it until I get in the replacement. Damn red locktite!

Other than that it spins freely and everything went back together with no left overs. Imagine that!

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11-28-2005 01:12 AM  12 years agoPost 33
Furious Predator

rrProfessor

Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

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good job
just remember now you have to break it in like a new engine. run her a bit rich for a little.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

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11-28-2005 04:56 AM  12 years agoPost 34
Ace Dude

rrProfessor

USA

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11-30-2005 10:52 PM  12 years agoPost 35
dgshaffer

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New Jersey

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Well... I got home and it was dark as hell out but....

I have a big light in my driveway so I fired it up. I ran a tank through it and it ran just great. I was worried about the fuel pump. I couldn't find a replacement diaphrgam so I just put in the new piston, ring, sleve, and bearings for now.

I'm running it really rich and this first tank was spent hovering about 6" off the ground at 30 second intervals and then letting it cool a bit.

This weekend I'll be able to give a real test flight although I'll be easy on it for the first gallon.

Again, thanks for all the help. I probably would have sent it in for the rebuild otherwise.

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11-30-2005 11:13 PM  12 years agoPost 36
Furious Predator

rrProfessor

Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

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I'm running it really rich and this first tank was spent hovering about 6" off the ground at 30 second intervals and then letting it cool a bit.
I've heard a number of times, i think even Curtis has this mentioned on his site for breakin in an engine, that hovering only isn't the best way to work in the engine.
if i recall correctly from what he says, hovering doesn't run the engine warm enough. when you break them in, just do forward flight like you normally would, dont put a huge demand on the engine, but run it through its paces. your supposed to break in the engine at its normal operating temperature.

here is a quote from him:
"For break-in I would start with the high end about 1 turn out and the low end a little over 1/2 open. You do not want the engine excessively rich during break-in. You just want to be sure it is not lean. Also, you can do basic aerobatics during break-in you just do not want to load the engine to the point where it starts to slow down. " note, thats for an OS engine, needle settings will vary
http://www.curtisyoungblood.com/faq...gines::Break-in

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

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11-30-2005 11:52 PM  12 years agoPost 37
dgshaffer

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New Jersey

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The purpose for tonight’s run was just to get some fuel through it and check for trouble. I won't be flying it again until this coming weekend when I can let it breathe a little.

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12-01-2005 01:56 AM  12 years agoPost 38
Furious Predator

rrProfessor

Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

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ah, ok then

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

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12-05-2005 02:38 PM  12 years agoPost 39
yapjy

rrKey Veteran

Singapore

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Erm, guys, I need help on my YS 91 too.
I have followed the step here. However, I ended having the rear bearing popped out together with the crankshaft

Now, I have a tough time removing the rear bearing from the crankshaft.

Any idea on how to do that?

thanks in advance.

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12-05-2005 03:04 PM  12 years agoPost 40
vince

rrApprentice

Victoria BC Canada

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just heat the bearing with a small torch. then hold the crank and aim it at a piece of wood throw it down verticaly on the threads. repeat many times you should see it start to move slowly unless you have heated the crank too much. if you think you are throwing it to hard you are getting close to what you need to throw it
it you do it right the crank sould not leave the safety of your hand.

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