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Other › More home made night blades...
10-18-2005 12:10 PM  13 years agoPost 21
Sar

rrElite Veteran

Saugeties, NY

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Do you guys have a good cheap source for the copper tape? Everywhere I looked is a bit overpriced in onsies and twosies quantity. Someone mentioned that the copper tape used in stain glass windows is supposed to have a pretty good grip, but I haven't looked into that yet.

--
Jon

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10-18-2005 12:45 PM  13 years agoPost 22
martinic

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NB, Canada

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The nice thing about the 3M tape is that it has an extremely strong conductive adhesive backing which means you don't need to solder (i.e. do not solder them) the joints. Yes, it's ~$15 for an 18' roll of 1/4" wide tape, but it works and is good stuff. They sell it in 5/32" width which may be less expensive. This stuff is made to run circuits.

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10-18-2005 03:18 PM  13 years agoPost 23
playfair

rrKey Veteran

Rochester, NY

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The "switch" is just like the MS blades; I cut up an IC PC mount into rows. One side charges (direct battery connection), the other completes the LED circuit.

One thing to be careful on with the conductive adhesive is when using CF blades; I've gotten conductivity (not always), but especially on the trail edge where there may not be gel coat.


The sky is our canvas

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10-18-2005 04:26 PM  13 years agoPost 24
Ozydego

rrKey Veteran

Westerville, Ohio

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I got a roll of 50 someodd feet for $3 bucks, then just add $5 bucks shipping... I did a search on froogle.com for copper foil tape.... Mine is the stuff made for use on staind glass windows..... Mine works without solder, but I soldered anyway, before I knew I didn't have to.....ooops

But Honey, I can't live with just stock.....

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10-19-2005 05:25 AM  13 years agoPost 25
Ozydego

rrKey Veteran

Westerville, Ohio

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I finally got a video of my latest set of blades, Its on putfile, here:
Night Flying

But Honey, I can't live with just stock.....

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10-19-2005 10:08 AM  13 years agoPost 26
martinic

rrKey Veteran

NB, Canada

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Looks great Ozydego - you can really see the light when the rotors are spinning. Mine are partially obscured in part of the arc using SMT LEDs - the through hole LEDs definitely give better visibility. Of course, with you Lipo lower you can use very bright LEDs too - I'm limited by the coin cells.

Great work Ozydego!

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10-19-2005 04:34 PM  13 years agoPost 27
Ozydego

rrKey Veteran

Westerville, Ohio

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I'm using SMT's, but yeah, the higher voltage makes it a lot brighter....

I ended up going with a seperate smaller lipo for the lights, because I was getting glitching when using the main batt, I think it had to do with my contact bouncing on the swash..... After I used a seperate lipo, same old smooth rexy with lights....

I just upgraded to Aligns newest swash, and I think I'm going to try my Cold cathode tube lights again, because they had a problem with the 120v inverter arcing across the swashplate. The new one eliminates this tendancy.... I'll see how it works out....

But Honey, I can't live with just stock.....

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10-19-2005 04:42 PM  13 years agoPost 28
playfair

rrKey Veteran

Rochester, NY

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Whoa, those CC tubes scare me; are they made of glass? Wouldn't want one to break when the blades flex...


The sky is our canvas

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10-19-2005 04:46 PM  13 years agoPost 29
Ozydego

rrKey Veteran

Westerville, Ohio

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Ooh, good observation, I didn't think about flex.... I have had a couple break in the past while making them, and they are protected under heat shrink, so when they did break, no problems.... except if the heli was in the air.... lights out.... I think Im gonna test for a while at dusk.... When I fly the night blades, I really only hover around, nothing to cause a significant amount of flex, but its something I'm gonna have to be aware of....

But Honey, I can't live with just stock.....

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10-19-2005 04:58 PM  13 years agoPost 30
martinic

rrKey Veteran

NB, Canada

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Which smaller lipos are you using Ozydego? And which SMT LEDs?

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10-19-2005 05:07 PM  13 years agoPost 31
Ozydego

rrKey Veteran

Westerville, Ohio

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I am using a 350mah 3s TP pack, zip tied between the boom support rods, and I get my SMT LED's from LSDiodes.com
http://www.lsdiodes.com/shop/index....d1baff90bd1ab89
They are .45 cents apiece, I use to 0805's, and if you buy 10, you get a UV LED free, check out their freebies page....

But Honey, I can't live with just stock.....

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11-29-2005 09:27 PM  13 years agoPost 32
raptorbod

rrNovice

ipswich, uk

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Many thanks for this posting martinic,
I followed your example & came up with result as below:

I've only flown this once so far in my small back garden but it flys very well. I will try out a few stall turns etc..out on the flying field when i have time to see if the blades hold together...must remember to take a large torch to find the bits if it doesn't

I ordered some Surface Mount LED's but these were far too small when they arrived (i'd ordered the wrong ones.) So I used 4 stnadard Red 3mm low current 2mA LEDs instead & one 2032 battery/holder per blade. The LEDs were postioned half way (front to back) on the top of one blade & the bottom of the other - i gave each one a resistor. The leads of the LED's & resistors were pushed through tiny holes drilled through the blades & soldered onto the copper track on the other side of the blade. The outer LED on each blade points outwards from the end of the blade hence it dissappears at the back-end of the photo. I covered the whole blade in heat-shrink, making holes in it above the LED's as it was shrunk to let the LED's poke through, so as not to have too much suspended heat-shring around the LED's.

I did try differrent clours first red/green/orange LED's, but reverted to all red, since red seemed to show up much better.

works well,

many thanks for the idea

mick

Raptor 30, Raptor 50 , T-Rex v2 (AON3500, jazz 40-6-18, TP2100)

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