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HomeAircraftHelicopterCentury Radikal G20-30 N640 Hawk Predator › Pgasser: problems, problems, problems...GONE!
10-16-2005 03:09 AM  12 years agoPost 1
jackheli

rrProfessor

Vancouver - Canada

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Guys, thank you all for your efforts in helping me sort out my problems. My gasser flew awesome today. I had a real ball out there with it!

I replaced the 401 with a CSM 560V4. The tail is locked in, no tail wag even at 100% gain. Tried a few backwards circuits and funnels, and the tail held perfectly! WHAT AN AWESOME GYRO!

There are some questions I would like to ask, though:

1- I still have some engine vibrations that are seen as the canopy is still shaking. My needles are at 1 1/2 low and 1 5/8 high. Engine temperature as measured by a venon monitor, with the sensor at the end of the head, under the carburetor is a solid 250 at hover. I am not sure how smooth a Hanson 26 should run comparing to the 231. Is this vibe normal?
2- The max temperature hit 330... how could that be? On the high needle maybe? Is that a problem?
3- Twice when I applied throttle to get the blades moving from stopped, the ball links at the head popped-off! What a scare! It is strange because I need to put a lot of strength to put them back in or pop them off manually. Why is that so? The blades were checked for balance and they are fine!
4- When I emptied the tank a lot of bubbles came in through the carb pickup when the level reached 1/2". I am using the filtered clunk everybody is using.

Any comments are most welcome.

THX..

Jack

It's easy to find an excuse to do wrong. Hard is not to find an excuse to do right.

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10-16-2005 05:29 AM  12 years agoPost 2
AGRAV8

rrProfessor

Mosquito Coast......Houston Texas

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OK
250 hover in 80 degree weather is fine. A NEW engine breaking in can go as high as 280 on the first couple tanks. 330 was seen when flying extended at wide open? Richen the high needle just a tad....so when doing vertical extended wide open pulls, the engine just begins to bog at the bottom, but catches up after 4 or 5 seconds....then lean a little until the bog at the bottom goes away.

Canopy shakes. USUALLY a sign of a lean engine.....tail bumping is usually a sign of being rich in a hover. Adjust your blade tracking 1/2 turn at a time....although they LOOK in track, they may actually be out a little and this can cause a canopy shake. Also make DARN CERTAIN your choke lever is not partially closing. It CAN move by itself.

I have YET to have a ball link pop off. I would figure out WTF, and FAST. Change the links. Did you size them? maybe a little too much?

Bubbles in the fuel line. You might have a filter that the foam has pulled away from the ends.....check that. Everyone elses will completely drain the tank....and the engines run out of fuel with the fuel lines still full. Something is amiss with that clunk. Might also be a split in teh small tygon when you fought to get it over the barb on the clunk. The height sounds about right for that.

GOOD guy list-39, BAD guy list-0

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10-16-2005 05:34 AM  12 years agoPost 3
Billme

rrElite Veteran

MS

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J

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10-16-2005 05:39 AM  12 years agoPost 4
Billme

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MS

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Jack, are you running the stock airfilter? Do me a favor, if so, get the Ma filter, and put the needles at 13/8's... Let me know what happens... Did you ever get the the NGK plug?
If the blades get cocked over to much from starting to fast.. this can put stress on the links..Any heli for that matter
Bill

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10-16-2005 06:43 AM  12 years agoPost 5
JKos

rrProfessor

Redondo Beach, CA

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A note about the Stens pickup/filter... At the rate the engine pulls fuel from the tank, there will be zero air getting into the fuel line. However, while defueling it is very possible to suck the fuel too fast and start drawing air.

Why? Because the pickup/filter relies on the wicking action of the filter material to maintain fuel throughout the material and thus no air can be drawn. If you suck fuel faster than the material can wick, you'll start sucking air.

I never defueled my PG so I never noticed this with gas machines. I noticed it when I started trying the Stens unit in nitro machines and noted exactly this behaviour while defueling.

BTW, the Stens is awesome for nitro use! No more header tank. Even a fuel guzzling 91 doesn't suck fast enough to beat the wicking action right down to a dry tank.

- John

RR rules!

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10-16-2005 06:28 PM  12 years agoPost 6
jackhelirrProfessor - Vancouver - Canada - My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Thank you guys! I appreciate the time you are spending to help me.

I had a really good time yesterday with my gasser. I can see myself starting to get addicted to the way it flies... sort of as a Cadillac Too bad for my nitros!

Needles: I saw the max temperature of 330 on my last flight, so before I put the heli away I had already richen the low needle another 1/16 and the high 1/8.

So now the needles are at: low a bit over 1 1/2 and high at 1 3/4. I haven't tried that combination yet but I will as soon as it stops raining ^$%$%#@$.

The temperature here in Vancouver was below the 60 mark yesterday, pretty cold by the standards you guys fly in...

So, should I lean the needles back to 1 3/8 again? Remember I am running the Hanson 26... and it only has 1 1/2 gallons through...

Blade tracking... yes that would do it. Yesterday I didn't have an experienced helicopter pilot to help me adjust it, so I did the best I could by myself. I can do it alone on smaller helis but I was intimidated by the gasser, and I confess I didn't do the best possible job there. I can't go 1/2 a turn at a time, though, since the HD ball links only go on multiples of one turn. Humm, maybe it is time for some Rocket City links..

Links: They were sized (by squeezing them on the balls) so that they would just fall on their own weight. They are really hard to put in and take out. They seem fine to me, but I'll double check. When flying (after I got past first spool) nothing happened (obviously...) but there is always that uncomfortable feeling to it!
Could the tightness of the blades on the grips have anything to do with the balls popping out? Maybe too loose or too tight?

Air filter: No air filter on the carb yet. It is completely open. I have an MA filter waiting at home but I haven't added it in. In order to find my bearings I was doing only one change to the heli at a time.
I can see no choke lever on the carb... what am I missing? (this is a very newbie question, sorry for that...)

NGK plug: yes. I am using the CR7HIX spark plug. I am also using Camper/Armsoil at 50:1 ratio (still in break-in)

Stens filter: Thanks Jkos. That makes perfect sense. The bubbles were neatly spaced, as if on parade... which would indicate a constant repeatable effect.

It's easy to find an excuse to do wrong. Hard is not to find an excuse to do right.

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10-16-2005 09:18 PM  12 years agoPost 7
Billme

rrElite Veteran

MS

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I'm perplex at those needle settings..Yes you should richen up as it gets colder , but you should still be within 1/8-+ from the standard 13/8s on the low, and 1 1/2 on the high... Running without a filter will cause you to open the needles .. When you put the MA filter back on you'll probally get the needles back to normal...
So long as your getting the right color on the plug, do what yo have to do on the needles...
If your fuel system is ok, and you still have to run the needles that rich, I would suggest you check your lever height in your carb, or if you don't know how, take it to a local small engine service so they can check it..
BTw, temps are relative, but in your case, I would get another type temp detection to see the difference if any...With your stated outside temp in the 60's you should not be in the 330 range, noway with your needles open that much, unless you have fuel delivery problems... Always check the carb side of the cooling fins at the top when checking temps...
Bill

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