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HomeAircraftHelicopterHIROBOOther › Slop free swash for Evo/Freya on the cheap
10-15-2005 09:31 PM  12 years agoPost 1
MJA

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UK

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I recently bought a Quick UK swash for my Freya and have been loathed to buy another for my Sceadu Evo ,so thought i'd try a little experiment with the original
After looking at where the free play was coming from on the original Hirobo swash, it was all coming from the bearing inner race to outer race.The pressed metal centre was still very tight
The outer wall on the Hirobo swash is quite chunky so i thought i'd try pre loading it with 4 grub screws like Quick do on their metal swash's.

I drilled 4 holes at the 90 deg intervals with a 2.4mm drill then self tapped some short 3mm diam grub screws in(used sloped ended grub screws not totally flatted end ones) then tighten evenly it took out all of the bearing slop for me.Best to use a screwdriver handled allen wrench to avoid overtightening.Keep cheking by spinning centre of swash too to make sure it doesn't go notchy or if the free rotation starts to tightens up

If you've got an original Hirobo swash that's started to get a bit of slop in it,give it a try

Martin

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10-15-2005 10:00 PM  12 years agoPost 2
Helinutnz

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below 42 South

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cool
yeah i'll try it!
cheers

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10-15-2005 10:13 PM  12 years agoPost 3
mrNoodles

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Borlänge, Sweden

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Nice!
Thanks Martin, will try that on my sloppy ones.

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10-16-2005 10:57 PM  12 years agoPost 4
rdalcanto

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Salt Lake City, UT

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Nice! Did you seperate the swash plate before drilling?

Thanks,
Rick

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10-16-2005 11:52 PM  12 years agoPost 5
MJA

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UK

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Rick,
No,i just drilled until the drill came to a stop and i could just see the silver of the bearing case in the middle of the hole.Because the drill i used was a std taper bit ,it didn't clean the plastic out of the bottom edges of the holes.Try to use grub screws with the smaller diameter flat steps on the ends or ones with a slight point/taper,but not too much of a step or taper on the end or it'll lose some useful biting threads in the swash wall.The material at the edges that gets left undrilled is not enough to resist the grub screws in practise.

I was originally thinking of splitting the swash so i could run a drill and tap right through each one ,but thought it may be difficult to get it apart without risking making the bearing go notchy , also getting the peeled over pressing of the inner part of the swash back good enough
so as not to make it sloppy where it wasn't before
The grub screws seemed to self tap quite good into that material using a 2.4mm hole.


Martin

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