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10-15-2005 06:41 AM  13 years agoPost 1
Furious Predator

rrProfessor

Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

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After flying a 30 nitro for 4 years and a 90 for 2, i decided to get something small and fun....and far less intimidating then the 90. i decided on the blade...partly by looks nothing against any of its compeditors like the Hummingbird or Hornet.

I bought the bair bones kit because i had most of the electronics i needed from a park flier plane i toyed around with. as soon as i took the blade out of the box, i replaced the stock motor with the E-Flight 370 brushless, and installed 3 HS-55 servoes.

i must say, i am very impressed with the quality and ease of assembly. everything went together smoothly, i had the Blade almost fully programmed on my 10X in about 40 minutes. i find the only slop in any controls are caused by the Z-bends linking to the servoes, which i will be replacing with ball links.

I was also impressed to see that it has a dampening system built into the head, i was not expecting that bonus, although i find its too soft for stunt flying so i'll also be putting washers in the gap between the head and blade grips to limit the travel for a faster response.

Unfortunatly i cant even fly it yet, haha. i still need a gyro, 1320 Li-Po (lost in the crash with my park flier) and the mixer to power the tail. that will all come next week.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
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10-17-2005 04:17 AM  13 years agoPost 2
spencer

rrNovice

Arcadia Nebraska

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Hey Furious Vigor! Can you link me to those ball links to replace the Z bends please?

spencer

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10-17-2005 07:44 AM  13 years agoPost 3
Furious Predator

rrProfessor

Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

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There is no link as far as i know, i never tried. i intend on making them. The hobby store here keeps a healthy supply of blade parts, so i'll just get some extra plastic ball links, and some metal balls that screw into the servo arm. I'll cut off the Z-bend on the stock link, and JB-Weld a ball link onto the end of it trying to make sure the center of the ball link is where the center of the Z-bend was, you can still use the other end for fine tuning.

This should eliminate a good portion of the slop, alteast on mine. once the plastice ones either brake off in a crash or wear out, which ever first, i'll change all the plastice balls to metal ones

Shawn
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10-17-2005 07:52 AM  13 years agoPost 4
MidStar40

rrApprentice

Sioux Falls, SD

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I used these (CNE307A) on my 3D Pro to replace the z-bends. I'm not sure about the length for the Blade.

http://www.heli-world.com/Merchant2...ct_Code=CNE307A

Rod

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10-17-2005 08:19 AM  13 years agoPost 5
Furious Predator

rrProfessor

Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

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you can use anything you want as long as you have the right sized balls

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
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10-17-2005 01:17 PM  13 years agoPost 6
Stack

rrVeteran

Bethlehem, PA

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Let us know how that e-flight motor goes. I have one laying around and I just might drop it in if you give it the thumbs up...


Thanks in advance

- Stack

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10-17-2005 08:08 PM  13 years agoPost 7
Furious Predator

rrProfessor

Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

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I'll be able to tell you guys how the brushless works at the end of the week, probably thursday. right now the only problem i have with it is that the speed controller has wires to the motor about 1.5" or so, and they NEED to stay that length to work right, so i'm having problems finding a way to mount it without touching the motor itself.

Shawn
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10-20-2005 04:53 AM  13 years agoPost 8
t.edwards

rrApprentice

Lake Geneva, Wisconsin

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Z Bend Replacement
CNE307A is correct length/size for Blade. Happy flying, Tom

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10-20-2005 07:38 PM  13 years agoPost 9
Furious Predator

rrProfessor

Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

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well, finnaly got the rest of what i needed, cost me $350 including two 1320mah lipo's. just when i thought i had all the bugs figured out, took it out for a test flight, crashed, picked it up, straightened it out, and flew it again, then i found out how crappy the elevator control was, thumped in pretty hard, broke the frame and one skid. i finished it off by taking it by the boom and whipping it into the ground, ripping the boom with the wries off with it.

worst money ever spent

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

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10-20-2005 07:42 PM  13 years agoPost 10
Furious Predator

rrProfessor

Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

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man...i cant believe i spent $350 on a gyro, the 2-1 mixer, symetical blades, and two lipo's. i can deal with a broken skid or what ever, glue it back on, now i have the frame busted up too. i'll see if i cant get it back in the air by next week.....still cant believe i spent that money on it....

Shawn
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Team HelixRC

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10-20-2005 07:58 PM  13 years agoPost 11
crazyhumpy

rrNovice

Nevada

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With that 370 Brushless from E-Flite, would it be possible to just swap it with the brushed 370, without having to buy any new electronics?

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10-20-2005 08:07 PM  13 years agoPost 12
Furious Predator

rrProfessor

Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

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yes, the stock motor can be powered from the 2-1 mixer. but thats not solving any of my problems.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

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10-20-2005 08:33 PM  13 years agoPost 13
Furious Predator

rrProfessor

Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

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started assessing damage, looks like i shouldn't have whipped the Blade by the boom, haha, ripped off the connector for the tail drive, now it needs to be soldered directly to the controller, lol. i probaly shouldn't have flown this thing since i've been awake for 30 hours sofar, dont take much to get me frustrated.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

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10-21-2005 02:14 AM  13 years agoPost 14
crazyhumpy

rrNovice

Nevada

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I was just asking about the 370 Brushless. Sorry, I guess I should have explained better. I have a 4 in 1, everything stock, I was just wondering if the 370 Brushless would work without buying a special esc, etc.....

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10-21-2005 09:13 PM  13 years agoPost 15
Furious Predator

rrProfessor

Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

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yeah, the 4-1 wont work. a brushless ESC works completely different from a brushed ESC. if you want a brushless you MIGHT have to do what i have done. you will need the Brushless motor and Brushless ESC (obviuosly), a separate gyro, and the 2-1 mixer for operating the tail motor, and a reciever.
i spent (IN CANADIAN) $80 on the E-Flight 370 Brushless, about $80 on the ESC, $58 on the 2-1 mixer, and $50 on a Piezo (non heading hold) gyro. and if your gonna do all that, you might as well go with Li-po's as well, the ThunderPower 1320mah ones i got were $80 a piece, plus you will need a few dollars and some time to solder on connectors, because the newer li-po's do not come with connectors.

you might be able to just stick with the 4-1 that it comes with, and just buy a brushless ESC for the motor, it would be easier. might even be cheaper. just this is what i have done.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

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10-21-2005 09:25 PM  13 years agoPost 16
crazyhumpy

rrNovice

Nevada

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Thanks for clearing that up. I've been told that you can't put a brushless in the BCP and then I heard that you bought one for yours. I'm still kinda clueless when it comes to the components for a Heli. I'm not sure if I want to mess with programing the TX yet. Thanks though!

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10-22-2005 03:14 AM  13 years agoPost 17
Furious Predator

rrProfessor

Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

There is no reason you cant put on a brushless. teh E-flight 370 brushless has a smaller outside diameter then the stock motor, so you cant use the heat sink that the upgrade kit comes with. because its smaller, it comes with a mounting plate that bolts onto the motor, then the heli, so it mounts in the exact same way as the stock motor, i'm even using the same pinion, i just took it off the stock motor and pressed it onto the brushless.

it took a bit of tinkering to get power to the tail, but i got her running, and after the crash and beating yesterday i'm was surprised to reveal that there was very little damage. most of the damage was to the skids.

the so called radio tray on the nose snapped off like a twig, but was crap to begin with, its not very rigid and thats what i had my gyro mounted to. so i reinforced what was left with extra carbon rods left over from the wrecked ones, and placed a fiberglass plante drilled lightening holes, and used it as a mounting platform for the electronics.

the ESC from the brushless puts out a LOT of rf noise, so a lot of glitching results. my solution to this was to surround the reciever in aluminium tape, this eliminated all glitching from what i can tell.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

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10-22-2005 05:52 AM  13 years agoPost 18
Furious Predator

rrProfessor

Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

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well, i just started to hover this thing in my room, right away i can hover in a space not much bigger then the heli....i better be when i'm sitting in a chair maybe a foot away. at first it was real touchy so i started playing with the expo's and dual rates, got it flyin pretty smooth now. i figured the reason the wind took it out the other day and i couldn't recover because i had way too much expo and only 60% travel.

got my gyro gain almost all the way up, even though its not heading hold, the gyro is good enough that i dont need revolution mixing to help while climbing. hopefully next week i'm gonna take it outside after more hovering and getting the hang of it, and see how well she does upside down with symetrical blades.

Shawn
Team Leisure-Tech
Team HelixRC

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