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10-12-2005 10:04 PM  12 years agoPost 1
HeliHorrible

rrNovice

Wichita, Kansas 67207

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My clunk line disintegrated in the tank!!!! It took me hours picking the peices out with some surgical tweezers, I didn't want to break the heli down to take that stupid tank out. ...anyway ... I used regular fuel line for the new clunk...but I think it is too stiff.

What do the pro's use? ...and do I need to add a header tank for just hovering flight?

thanks
chris

Caliber 30(3) / JR 9303 / GY 401

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10-12-2005 10:13 PM  12 years agoPost 2
airdodger

rrElite Veteran

Johnston USA

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Do a quick search you will find plenty of opinions on this. If you can't see the fuel level and need to add some flying time use a header tank. It won't lean out towards the end of the tank with a header, for just hovering probably not necessary, in my opinion. Chris

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10-12-2005 11:01 PM  12 years agoPost 3
HeliK

rrApprentice

SoCal

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HeliProz carries a better clunk line sold by the foot. They just never have it in stock. Call them.

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10-13-2005 12:40 AM  12 years agoPost 4
the collective

rrKey Veteran

Bayside, NY, U.S.A

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I use Hayes black neoprene, it's quite flexible and seems to hold up fairly well. The part number is HAY249 if you want to get your LHS to order some for you.

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10-13-2005 02:28 PM  12 years agoPost 5
BarracudaHockey

rrMaster

Jacksonville FL

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2 things if you use the Hayes.

It will stretch a bit so cut it a hair shorter than you think you need, I ended up with the clunk sucking on the back wall of the tank, good thing my autos were up to speed.

It will also turn your fuel a funky black color for a tank or 2, don't sweat it, the fuel ran fine, it just looked strange.

Andy
AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

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10-13-2005 03:11 PM  12 years agoPost 6
BARTGALAMBOS

rrVeteran

Huntsville, Alabama! U. S. A.

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I went to the LHS and bought some Hayes Fuel Line. It does turn the fuel a nasty color! Anyway, it is very flexible, thus the clunk in any attitude goes where the fuel is.

Bart

Precious Metal Investor!!!

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10-13-2005 07:00 PM  12 years agoPost 7
Doug

rrElite Veteran

Port Saint Luice Florida....

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Purge your tank at the end of the flying day (fill then defuel). It's the exhaust in the tank that kills them.

First member of Member of Bearings Anonymous

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10-13-2005 07:16 PM  12 years agoPost 8
BarracudaHockey

rrMaster

Jacksonville FL

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You can accomplish the same thing by opening the throttle all the way and running the engine a few turns with a starter after you have run the fuel out of the engine.

Andy
AMA 77227
http://www.jaxrc.com

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10-13-2005 07:18 PM  12 years agoPost 9
Doug

rrElite Veteran

Port Saint Luice Florida....

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Since motoring would only push a very small amount of air from the muffler into the tank it would take "forever" to completely rid the tank of exhaust by motoring. However motoring is necessary to purge the muffler and engine (its the exhaust that causes the bearings to rust as well)

First member of Member of Bearings Anonymous

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10-13-2005 09:16 PM  12 years agoPost 10
Caliber1

rrApprentice

Fort Worth, TX

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Purge your tank at the end of the flying day (fill then defuel). It's the exhaust in the tank that kills them
That's good information on what deteriorates the klunk line. Seems like way too much trouble to fill and purge the tank at the end of the flying day. Wouldn't it be easier just to inspect and replace the klunk line every so many flights or tanks of gas?
John

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10-13-2005 09:46 PM  12 years agoPost 11
Doug

rrElite Veteran

Port Saint Luice Florida....

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way too much trouble
Yea takes 2 full min to do

First member of Member of Bearings Anonymous

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10-13-2005 11:10 PM  12 years agoPost 12
HeliHorrible

rrNovice

Wichita, Kansas 67207

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STORING
If you store a heli for a couple days do you have to go through all the bologne of cleaning it out?...will it rust up in that much time?

thanks
chris

Caliber 30(3) / JR 9303 / GY 401

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10-13-2005 11:11 PM  12 years agoPost 13
HeliHorrible

rrNovice

Wichita, Kansas 67207

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BEST HEADER TANK?
What's the best header tank to get for the CALIBER 30?

thanks
chris

Caliber 30(3) / JR 9303 / GY 401

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10-14-2005 12:30 AM  12 years agoPost 14
airdodger

rrElite Veteran

Johnston USA

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It rusts fast, I pulled the backplate one evening after I made a flight and with a 30 power scope could see rust forming already, granted it was damp but that will give you an idea how fast it can happen. Chris

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10-16-2005 01:04 AM  12 years agoPost 15
shesha

rrVeteran

Kuwait

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I just add after run oil, for long periods of storage time, or for a couple of days I just wipe things down, it will keep the rust away.

Zero bubble....

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10-16-2005 02:28 AM  12 years agoPost 16
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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It doesn't take long at all for rust to take out your engine. A day is about all it takes.

Last year the clutch and fan assembly in my EVO popped loose while trying to start the motor. I went home, but didn't have the time to get to fixing it for two days. Since the assembly was loose and bound up on the cooling shroud, I couldn't run the motor dry or turn it over to fill it with after run oil.

Two nights later, I pulled the backplate off the motor so that I could get my crank lock on it. The fuel that was left in the motor from trying to start it glurped out on my workbench, it was BLACK.

Less than five flights later, the rear bearing in my 50 SX-H started showing up in my glow plugs.

A few minutes here and there will save you a bunch of money, time, and effort.

Dave

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10-16-2005 02:32 AM  12 years agoPost 17
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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I've got a couple Thunder Tiger header tanks on my Calibers, and one from HeliProz -- I think it's the "DBC" header (D'Best corp).

Here's a link to the DBC tank --
http://www4.mailordercentral.com/he...p?number=801649

The TT one looks quite similar, but has a plastic mounting strap and is a bunch cheaper.

Dave

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10-16-2005 03:28 AM  12 years agoPost 18
Caliber1

rrApprentice

Fort Worth, TX

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A few minutes here and there will save you a bunch of money, time, and effort.
If I am reading my posts right, I need to be doing the following things when the flying day is finished:
1. run the engine out of fuel
2. open the throttle and motor with the starter to purge the exhaust gases
3. fuel and defuel the main tank to purge out lingering exhaust

Any recommendations on when and how to use after run engine oil? And as always I am looking forward to the great feedback and knowledge base of this forum.

Thanks. John

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10-16-2005 01:08 PM  12 years agoPost 19
airdodger

rrElite Veteran

Johnston USA

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4. Put after run oil in. Getting it in is easy if you put a pressure tap in the backplate ( if one is not present, like the YS has) and use a glue syringe to inject. Then spin the engine once to distribute. Use an air tool oil, or if it is a YS brand use Ultra oil, because it is safe for use in the YS brand. http://www.pspec.com/html/high.html Chris

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10-16-2005 05:01 PM  12 years agoPost 20
Caliber1

rrApprentice

Fort Worth, TX

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Use an air tool oil
This is ok for an OS32 engine? Also, how much (in cc) do you put in?
Thanks.

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