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10-10-2005 07:23 AM  12 years agoPost 1
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rrApprentice

U.S.A.

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For those of you who have ever had to remove the spark plug cap on your zenoah to install the steel braided shielding as supplied by MA or to shorten the high tension lead (as in my case) I have found a much more robust re-installation technique for the plug cap.
I personally dont like the small piercing from the plug wire as it only contacts a very small area of the high tension lead and is a definite weak spot.
First step is to remove the wire that fits on the spark plug from the rubber boot. Secondly, straighten the 90 degree bend leaving only a very slight bend.

First slide a one inch piece of heat shrink tubing onto the shortened high tension lead. Then take the straightened plug wire and press it into the high tension wire from the END. Keep pressing until the wire is close to the original hole, when youre close put a slight bend in the high tension wire which will cause the plug wire to poke out of the high tension wire.

Careful not to poke yourself in the finger (dont ask me how I know..)OK, so once the wire protrudes a few mms put another 90 degree bend in the wire facing the tip towards the high tension lead. Make sure that when you make this bend that you properly orient the coil wire to align with the spark plug. Being that the high tension lead is so short now, this will eliminate any unnecessary twisting of the high tension lead when fitting to the spark plug.

Then simply squeeze with a pair of pliers to pierce the wire back into the high tension lead. The wire will not be able to twist or pull out.

Slide a pice of heat shrink tubing over the hole and reinstall the orange plug boot using a bit of saliva or WD-40 for lube on the inside of the plug boot.

The advantages to this is there is a much greater contact area between the high tension lead and plug wire, also it cant twist or pull out.

Here is my relocated coil on my Predator.


Johan

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10-10-2005 10:46 PM  12 years agoPost 2
jackheli

rrProfessor

Vancouver - Canada

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Very nice post. Thanks for sharing.

It's easy to find an excuse to do wrong. Hard is not to find an excuse to do right.

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10-11-2005 04:03 AM  12 years agoPost 3
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rrApprentice

U.S.A.

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you're welcome
I hope this post helps to cure some cap installation headaches.

Johan

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10-11-2005 04:39 AM  12 years agoPost 4
jackheli

rrProfessor

Vancouver - Canada

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I am actually right there, so this post is right on time.

Thanks again.

I am bookmarking it on my library.

It's easy to find an excuse to do wrong. Hard is not to find an excuse to do right.

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10-11-2005 09:54 AM  12 years agoPost 5
AussiJohn

rrApprentice

Perth Western Australia

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Mounting the coil back there can only be good all round hey ?

Let us know if you have any issues arrise.

Looks great, thanks for the post also.

John

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10-11-2005 10:05 AM  12 years agoPost 6
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rrApprentice

U.S.A.

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I think the coil almost looks like it belongs back there. Only thing is I had to extend the red lead from the primary coil (no biggie) and to run a ground lead since the coil is not grounded to the motor any more....or is it?
When I installed the coil I hadnt yet wired in the ground lead but the motor still generated spark when turned over. Turns out the coil does ground through the mounting screw and the frame. There is a slight bit of resistance via that path but still added a ground lead just to be sure.
I anticipate a test flight this weekend so will definitely let you know how things worked out.
I will also post some "finally finished" pics.

Johan

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10-11-2005 10:42 AM  12 years agoPost 7
AussiJohn

rrApprentice

Perth Western Australia

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It defianately looks like it belongs back there. I am still in the middle of solving some glitching. And next step is to move my coil.

Cheers again

John

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10-11-2005 06:04 PM  12 years agoPost 8
jackheli

rrProfessor

Vancouver - Canada

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Even more so if you are using this: the shielded cable is not very long...

It's easy to find an excuse to do wrong. Hard is not to find an excuse to do right.

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