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Other › Quark Universal 33A esc
11-12-2005 04:51 AM  12 years agoPost 41
Tmaster

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TX

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It looks easy, just follow the instructions on page 10 of the manual. I would set everything up first in air mode. Then start up again and set the esc for heli 2 or 3 depending if you want 2 rpms or 1.

I've never flown with govenor active, So im new to this kind of thing. I won't know till i try. I haven't really seen anyone talking about how it exactly works. At first I thought i was a lagged throttle, and the govenor would give your heli different power depending on how it was flying. But I think its just setting a specific rpm that you get constant. I don't know someone needs to come on here that is experienced and fill us in. I'm no veteran!!! lol

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11-12-2005 02:51 PM  12 years agoPost 42
Gary Hoorn

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Annapolis Maryland USA

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Tmaster,
Governor mode works by attempting to maintain a constant RPM of the motor hence the rotor itself. I like governor mode but am disappointed by some speed controls that seem to induce tail wag as they surge back and forth attempting to maintain rpm.

All blades must be removed from the Heli before starting the Quark governor mode setup!

The procedure is different and potentially dangerous as you must work around a whirling flybar and paddles while setting the speed. I have the Quark going in governor mode on the bench but have yet to fly it.
You cannot perform this procedure indoors under artificial light if using an optical tach.
Gary

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11-12-2005 04:47 PM  12 years agoPost 43
smoothound

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Lancing, West Sussex, UK.

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Hopefully I'll get around to trying mine this weekend if I can decide how to set it up


My P25(I know I should be using a 35 really) in Trex 1 lost power twice today without totally cutting out so I think it's time to use something else a bit more robust or get a separate BEC.

Phil

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11-12-2005 08:29 PM  12 years agoPost 44
Tmaster

rrKey Veteran

TX

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I had a quick test of heli 2, one gov rpm today. I set the rpm for less then wide open, I didnt have a tac but i listened to the motor. I'd say it was around 2200-2400 rpms. It was smooth, the heli had plenty of climb out power. I normally have a tiny bit of wag off and on, but it was fine in gov mode, nothing worse. There wasnt really any bog, the heli really did keep the rpms right. I like it!!!! I will do some more tests this week, for both modes after I borrow my friends tach. With the heli on a gov we can get the best efficency of the motor. Also it takes a couple seconds for the motor to stop after you pull the throttle all the way back. I had my programming 100% accross still.

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11-13-2005 02:27 AM  12 years agoPost 45
Gary Hoorn

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Annapolis Maryland USA

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Mike,
I am still trying out some of the programming options on this Quark. I would like to be satisfied with it as I paid for it! I can deal with the programming if the governor mode will work and not make the tail wag as most other speed controls do. I will be testing this week as much as the weather will permit.
Gary

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11-15-2005 09:36 AM  12 years agoPost 46
Jonn

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Hollywood, CA USA

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Hello everybody. My name is Jonn Erbmann, and I am the Director of Flight Division at Quark Brushless Systems. I will be happy to respond to any questions and feedback regarding Quark products. Please feel free to e-mail me at jonn@quarkbrushless.com, and I will also be checking the forums regularly. Thank you for your time.

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11-15-2005 01:48 PM  12 years agoPost 47
Daniel Wee

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Singapore

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Hi John,

I do have a few questions about the setup for the Quark 33A controller.

Firstly, what does the li-po high/low setting actually do?

Secondly, does "manual" for the battery setting mean "disabled"?

Thirdly, why is it that when the mode is set to "Heli" I can't select other options? It seems that the settings for the other parameters can only be done when in "Air" mode? Am I missing something here?

Fourthly, what exactly does "Turbo" mode do? How is this different from 100% throttle? And how exactly do I need to set the throttle curve in order to activate this turbo mode?

I have some other questions but these are the ones bothering me most now.

Thanks.

Daniel

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11-15-2005 06:55 PM  12 years agoPost 48
Tmaster

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TX

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I did get a email from John, and he explained a few things I asked about some of the settings. We are still wondering about the Lipo low and lipo high though.

Torque Selection:

Dynamic- More powerful torque selection, regulated by voltage applied.
Normal- Medium torque selection, regulated by voltage applied.
Soft- Smoother, lighter torque selection, regulated by voltage applied.

(Example: In an aerobatic aircraft, Dynamic torque selection would be
optimal for response and power. In a scale aircraft, Softtorque
selection would be optimal for scale speeds, takeoffs, and manuevers.)

Nuetral Range Selection:

This feature determines the range of throttle available on the transmitter
stick.

Wide Nuetral Range- Full throw of the throttle stick will equal full throttle
response.
Normal Nuetral Range- Slightly less than full throw of the throttle stick
will equal full throttle response.
Narrow Nuetral Range- Minimal throw of the throttle stick will equal full
throttle response.

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11-15-2005 10:45 PM  12 years agoPost 49
theo2076

rrApprentice

Westfield, IN -USA

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This might be a really stupid question...but does the esc only emit beeps when the motor is connected? The beep comes from the motor??

If the motor is not connected I can program the esc, but get no audible beeps.

Thanks!

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11-15-2005 10:57 PM  12 years agoPost 50
theo2076

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Westfield, IN -USA

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That must be the case, because the beeps come from the motor.

Thanks!

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11-16-2005 11:17 PM  12 years agoPost 51
theo2076

rrApprentice

Westfield, IN -USA

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Anyone know if the Astro 020 (803T) is a Outrunner motor? I can't seem to find out anywhere.

Does it make that much of difference in the esc as to what motor type you have set?


Thanks in advance!

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11-17-2005 01:52 AM  12 years agoPost 52
Tmaster

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TX

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its not a outrunner.

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11-17-2005 03:18 AM  12 years agoPost 53
alonafuta

rrNovice

Los Angeles, CA

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HELP!!!
Can anyone give me a clue? On the settings for JGF450F, is it an out runner?
My ESC is getting hot after 1 min. HELP!!!

Don't Drink and Drive Smoke and fly!

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11-17-2005 04:03 AM  12 years agoPost 54
Tmaster

rrKey Veteran

TX

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what are your settings? 450F is a outrunner......

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11-17-2005 06:24 AM  12 years agoPost 55
alonafuta

rrNovice

Los Angeles, CA

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hi Tmaster
T-REX XL CDE
thunder power 2100
GY401
3 HS-56's swash
Futaba 9650 tail
JGF450F
Futaba 146ip rx
Futaba 9C tx
S&T Quark Universal 33A, Factory settings

Don't Drink and Drive Smoke and fly!

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11-17-2005 06:36 AM  12 years agoPost 56
Tmaster

rrKey Veteran

TX

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what pinion?

Spend some time programing it, going through the sections. I swtiched to Advanced mode right away.

try these to start

heli1
turbo on
soft tq
race on
noise cancel on
lipo- low
outrunner
no brake 0%
2.9 or 3.0v per cell

How hot is it getting? It should get a little warm just sitting there with everything on. Id be worried if it gets over 110-120F just sitting there. Mine temps are really low, the esc even runs cooler when its in flight for me! Nice100 -105F
When sitting there the bec side is working to step down the voltage for the servos/rx/gyro. Thats where the heat is comming from. Make sure you have all your connections right (polarity, etc)

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11-17-2005 07:05 AM  12 years agoPost 57
balbs

rrKey Veteran

Los Angeles, CA

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I'm planning on running this with:

4 X HDS-877 digitals
JGF 450TH
3S
GY401

Can it handle the load or would I need a separate BEC?

Balbs

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11-17-2005 07:21 AM  12 years agoPost 58
Tmaster

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TX

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Im sure it will be fine. 4 hitec servos pull less then 1.5amps. And this has a 3 amp regulator.

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11-17-2005 07:26 AM  12 years agoPost 59
alonafuta

rrNovice

Los Angeles, CA

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thanks Tmaster
i will play around with it till i get it right.
The ESC gets warm, i dont think it gets over 110-120F
but i get what youre saying that the bec side is working to step down the voltage for the servos/rx/gyro, so i'll try your Recommendations first
thanks

Don't Drink and Drive Smoke and fly!

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11-17-2005 08:07 AM  12 years agoPost 60
Daniel Wee

rrVeteran

Singapore

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Actually I won't recommend setting the cutoff at 2.9V or 3.0V. That's simply too high. And with the Quark, it doesn't throttle down like the Align does. It simply cuts out completely. I've had this happen to me once and it wasn't pretty. Presently I have it set to cut out at 2.5V or 2.6V.

Daniel

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