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Other › TRex XL (CDE) canopy fouls with links
10-13-2005 04:00 AM  13 years agoPost 21
Daniel Wee

rrVeteran

Singapore

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TMaster, I thought of doing what you did but I think that the resulting geometry is less than ideal because you lose the parallelogram in the push-pull assembly. The trapezoid results in some complex non-linear interactions between the upper and lower linkages. I'm not sure how significant this is but I did the math some time ago and I know it's non-optimal. However, in practice the interaction may be small enough for you to ignore near the centre of the servo movement. Usually it's at the extremes that you will see these interactions - where they will load your servo. You may want to test that.

Secondly, I wonder if using the innermost mounting hole on the horn will reduce your throw - you may want to let us know if you get enough servo movement on the cyclics with that. What's your resulting pitch range?

Finally, we should all look out for the elevator linkage rod binding with the bell-crank or horn of the other servo. If you move your servos around through the entire range, you may find that the middle part of the elevator linkage rod sometimes touches or presses against the crank or the horn - but only in some positions. You'll want to avoid this.

Daniel

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10-13-2005 04:06 AM  13 years agoPost 22
Tmaster

rrKey Veteran

TX

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It works out fine, I have my D/R settings at 80% becasue I cant use 100 or the flybar box will hit the blade grips. I made sure they servos are not loaded with pressure by adjusting the linkages accordingly. as long as they are the same length it works just like before, a little more torque and a little less speed, but its not even significant to tell.

Just because he Horn is shorter then the secondary linkage arm doesnt mean its going to not work as well. As long as your linkages are spaced equally from the servo axis point on both sides of the horn it works out right. the servo pushes one side of the horn just as far as it pulls from the other side.

If you look in the align manual you will see that, thats what they show for the servo arm lengths. Canopy has no problems fitting, and the heli flys just like it did before I moved the servo horns shorter.

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10-21-2005 11:26 PM  13 years agoPost 23
Dennis (RIP)

rrApprentice

Oregon

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You can also mount your HS-56's from the inside rather than from the outside.

That will move them closer to center and further away from the canopy.

...........Dennis

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10-23-2005 08:58 PM  13 years agoPost 24
matt hogden

rrApprentice

Newcastle NSW Australia

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To solve the problem on mine i just stuck a peice of black foam on top of the frames above the top servo. You can use the foam that you buy from the hardware shops that has the double sided tape on it. (the stuff that goes around door frames to stop wind draughts). As long as it is high density foam. This holds the canopy up of the servo horns and i get about 2 to 3 mm clearence. It works for me on my CDE.
Hope it helps.

HOGGY

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12-23-2005 03:54 AM  12 years agoPost 25
gkoutsis

rrKey Veteran

Athens Greece

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Back from the dead!

I have the CF Frame and the hs56 horns rub inside the canopy. I tried to heat the canopy just enough to clear the horn but it still rubs.

Anybody managed to make it work 100% nice and neat?

George

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12-23-2005 04:29 AM  12 years agoPost 26
gkoutsis

rrKey Veteran

Athens Greece

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Take a look at my gallery at my #1 bird with the CF frames. Mount your servos like that and you wont have a problem.
Yours are mounted from the inside. Mine are from the outside thats why they rub.

What I hate the most (compared to you ) is to redo all my wiring.......

George

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12-23-2005 04:45 AM  12 years agoPost 27
gkoutsis

rrKey Veteran

Athens Greece

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Actually these photos are quite old. I need to upload the new ones

The shuttle looks goooooood!

Let's see if I can make the small one look too.

George

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12-23-2005 04:53 AM  12 years agoPost 28
imaginit

rrNovice

calamba city Phil...

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Got the same problem and done all suggested procedures on RR... till I modified the frame (Just post it recently)... http://www.frappr.com/?a=viewphoto&id=98350&pid=931395 then no more canopy binding and it works great,,,,,,

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12-23-2005 05:16 AM  12 years agoPost 29
imaginit

rrNovice

calamba city Phil...

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yap tnx...I've fixed the link...anyway....it is the t-rex on the right side...it is an original cde frame before...noticed the servo mounting?

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12-23-2005 12:05 PM  12 years agoPost 30
SPB

rrElite Veteran

Athens - Greece

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I solved the problem once and for all. I sold the TRex

This little $hit is not for my flying style. Not enough power, small flying times, twitchy and the list goes on. I will invest the money in a back up Raptor 50SE


Sotiris
myhelis.com Flying Team

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10-17-2006 07:59 AM  12 years agoPost 31
Timp.dk

rrApprentice

Denmark

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Picture is deleted
Hi

The linke en dead, the picture is deleted, anybody got a new linke with the right solution in, i need to fixs this issues on my new t-rex xl.

Thanks

http://rcheli.dk
http://birdeye.dk

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10-17-2006 08:35 AM  12 years agoPost 32
TRex888

rrVeteran

Monmouth, UK

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Check my gallery

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10-17-2006 09:16 AM  12 years agoPost 33
AlanR8

rrKey Veteran

Saddleworth near Manchester (UK)

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Same problem with my XL so all I did was HACK the canopy until it fitted!

I've not bothered fitting the screen. It looks a bit of a mess but hey, with all the money and time I've invested in the Rex recently to get it to fly glitch free, I don't care!!

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10-17-2006 09:39 AM  12 years agoPost 34
Timp.dk

rrApprentice

Denmark

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found it...
http://www.baronerosso.net/mod-subj...0-pageno-6.html

http://rcheli.dk
http://birdeye.dk

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