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Other › If the flybar is stiff, does that make the Trex controls too sensitive?
05-08-2005 04:47 AM  13 years agoPost 1
stangxs

rrNovice

Huntington Beach, CA

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My rex' is very sensitive to the controls right now, my flybad is pretty stiff... can that cause that problem?

I need to find the right washers that go on the control arms

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05-08-2005 07:55 AM  13 years agoPost 2
skyhawknut

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Vancouver B.C.

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Turn down your dual rates to make it less sensitive. I have about 30%

My flybar was stiff - put 2 wheel collars on each paddle (4 total) and it helped. Finally bought the align CNC washout/mixing arms and it hovers super smooth now. The arms will help free up the flybar a lot. Best 30 bucks I ever spent.

A stiff flybar will cause a kind of delayed reaction or unstableness. My heli - while controlled - was wandering everywhere. The CNC arms made it 110% beter.

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05-08-2005 03:32 PM  13 years agoPost 3
Coolpowered

rrKey Veteran

Youngstown, ohio

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If too tight it wont hold a hover at all, make sure it takes no pressure to move that flybar up and down.

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05-08-2005 03:34 PM  13 years agoPost 4
MFIS

rrVeteran

The Netherlands

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The metal seesaw upgrade will be the biggest difference you notice with any upgrade you make (barring eCCPM). I highly recommend it.

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05-08-2005 03:44 PM  13 years agoPost 5
martinic

rrKey Veteran

NB, Canada

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I just went through a period of instability that was finally resolved in part by lossening up the flybar (2.1mm drill) in both the seesaw holder and the rotor head. In the stock plastic parts there can actually be quite a bit of flashing from the molding process. I also resized some linkages and replaced a ball - now my flybar will easily move with a little puff of my breath while on the bench. It has made a huge difference in the stability of the heli. I had actually done this previously, but it got lost during a rebuild from a recent crash.

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05-08-2005 03:56 PM  13 years agoPost 6
FLY JCW

rrNovice

Derbyshire UK

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Fly bar
This was a problem from the start for me.... my original TREX was appalling in that area... but I knew no better and was not impressed when it wouldnt stay in one place on the hover.

I am just building a new head for my CCPM conversion and have needed to ease the holes in the see saw holder that the shouldered screws go into also I chamfered the outer edge of each hole to suit the shape of these screws......and I leave them a quarter of a turn slack.

I also discovered the the bar which the paddles go on is not smooth or round out of the packet.... If you spin it in the see saw holder it was lumpy!

I have just rubbed the fly bar down with wet and dry paper until it was smooth and shiny and then gently put a needle file through the holes it goes through..... now it is smooth!

I will need to lightly oil the flybar now though because it will rust.... I have some "gun blue" somewhere that puts a finish on bare steel which I might try

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