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Other › 325 woods – blade root strong enough?
05-06-2005 09:32 AM  13 years agoPost 1
Paul_C

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Limpopo, South Africa

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I decided to give the stretch kit a try, but the 325 blades supplied with the kit are too thick to use those plastic blade root reinforcements that come with the standard blades. Is the bare root with brass insert going to be strong enough? Anyone had any issues with this before? I’ve put a bit of CA around the hole, but plan to run high rpm and am a little concerned that the wood might split. I’m also thinking of reinforcing the root with CA soaked paper or something.

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05-06-2005 04:05 PM  13 years agoPost 2
dbcaster

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Petaluma, Ca

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The blades that come with the stretch kit are 335's not 325's. As far as I know Align does not make a 325 wood blade. You should not have any problem using the plastic root reinforcements on the blades. They are a little tighter than the old blades but they will fit in the stock holder.

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05-10-2005 08:12 AM  13 years agoPost 3
Paul_C

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Limpopo, South Africa

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My mistake, they are indeed 335, don't know where I got 325 from.

The 335's are 4.5mm thick and the 315's are 3.8mm thick, that is a big difference. I tried to put them on with the plastic reinforcements, but long before I could get the holes to line up, the blade grips had spread apart to a point where I though it was too risky.

I reinforced the root with two layers of CA soaked paper - has lasted two flights so far. I don't think I like them much anyway, the machine was more responsive with the 315's.

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05-10-2005 09:23 AM  13 years agoPost 4
electron_flyer

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Cape Town, South Africa

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Hi Paul,
Im about to try the stretch kit shortly too. I was unable to get a definitive "its better that the stock" or not response out of this forum so I decided to bite the bullet and try it for myself. At least its not too much outlay.

As it is currently with the stock blades, Im running 10% expo and its very sensitive. Im getting used to it, but I would prefer it to fly 'heavier' like my R30 so I dont have to get used to it every time I change models.

I think the longer blades will help this. I can always take out the last 10% expo to liven it up. Im also hoping that the pitchiness (esp when descending with slower HS on auto practice) will be reduced.

Have you set up the cyclic pitch to 7-8 degrees all round? What HS are you running? Im running 2400 with 8 deg cyclic and get about 1 roll per 1.5 sec, a flip takes about 2 secs, its faster than my R30 but I dont know if that would be considered fast in this forum.

My only other worry is that the higher disk loading on the stock blades is actually better in the usually windy conditions we get here in the Cape. Once again, I will have to just try it and see. I must say the ECO was terrible in that repect, way too low disk loading and it got thrown about terribly. The heavier BBT blades helped a bit there...

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05-10-2005 09:57 AM  13 years agoPost 5
lloyd

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Perth,Australia (South African)

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hi paul
how do you like those kokams 15c?i believe they are great.let me know.
thanks
lloyd
PE
083 7633556

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05-10-2005 10:07 AM  13 years agoPost 6
Paul_C

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Limpopo, South Africa

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Electron Flyer...

I think you will like the stretch kit then, the heli is smoother and feels like a bigger heli with the 335 blades on, at the expense of roll and pitch rate. With the stock blades, the roll and pitch was much better than my Raptor, could do two consecutive rolls in the time the raptor takes to do one (and I have lighter than stock paddles on the rappy), with the 335's it is still faster than the raptor, but not a whole lot. The 335’s are heavier than the 315’s and do make it more stable, but like you said, with a lighter disk loading it might be bounced up and down more easily by the wind. With a larger disk, you could always just use heavier batteries to take the disk loading to that of the 315's?

I use about 40% expo on aile and 35% on elev with stock blades, can do with less on the 335's - nice and smooth for hovering, yet obedient when you want to manoeuvre. Haven't measured my cyclic pitch, but it's as much as I can get without any binding of swash or linkages, and slightly more pitch than roll. Am not sure of my rpm either, I just adjust pinion size till it feels and sounds right, if you’re flying in wind most of the time, higher rpm is better than lower. Try some wheel retaining collets on the flybar, that will make it feel like a larger heli too.

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05-11-2005 12:32 AM  13 years agoPost 7
Coolpowered

rrKey Veteran

Youngstown, ohio

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Been running the stretch kit for a couple of months now , would never change back, a lot more punch in the collective with the bigger blades, little smoother,and still fast in rolls and back flips.

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05-11-2005 10:58 AM  13 years agoPost 8
electron_flyer

rrApprentice

Cape Town, South Africa

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Hmm im looking forward to trying this strech kit. Are you guys still running the same pitch range and rpms?

I find the stock blades dont provide enough bite too, I have to use the full pitch range to get decent climb outs upright and inverted, I think its about +12deg, -11deg currently. Im sure the longer blades will make better use of that pitch.

Paul, its nice to know that increasing the mass will most likely improve the wind tolerance (nice problem to have to increase weight for a change!), however the cost will be in duraction, although some of that will be clawed back by greater efficiency I expect. I also hope tail authority will improve in backwards flight. I dont want to add collets to the flybar, as Im happy with the current responsiveness.

Im running the green 20g paddles and inner mixer holes on the Rappy and it still doesnt come close to the Trex! IT would be interesting to get some figures from your setup. I guess theres no harm in increasing the cyclic pitch to increase roll rate, Im just worried about blade stall. I read somewhere that you dont really want to go over about 8 degrees. which is what I have currently. Yours must be over that. Do you get bogging or any strange stalling noises when flipping? If so, you may find that you get a better roll rate by reducing the max cyclic pitch a bit so it doesnt stall that blades.. and your cyclic would be more in the 20-30% region, making it more responsive there too.

I wonder if the chances of a successful auto would be much increased with the lengthened woodies too? I saw the SAB autos, thats worth being able to do for sure, but im not ready to splash out on the blades just yet!

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05-11-2005 01:28 PM  13 years agoPost 9
Paul_C

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Limpopo, South Africa

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I switched from a 13t to 12t when I put on the stretch kit, left the pitch range the same, I'm going to try the 13t this weekend and see how that goes, I'm certain I will be loosing some flight time though - right now I get about the same duration with the 335 & 12t as I had with the 315 & 13t, except the 315 & 13t provided better performance.

Damn, 12deg collective is quite a bit, what rpm are you running? I have 9.7deg (+ & -) on fm2, 8.3deg on fm1 - it's quite gentle in fm1 but I can still loop/roll/invert and so on, it's a good bit more lively & fun in fm2, even with the 315 woods. I have not measured, but my cyclic pitch does not look like 8deg or more.

When experimenting with different pinions / rpm I found that with low rpm it would pitch up and stall during fff and tight high-speed loops, and I would hear the blades stalling, no such problem with higher rpm, and blades don't stall during rolls or flips with full cyclic. There doesn't seam to be much bogging during full cyclic either, of-course, whenever I apply full cyclic I'm usually also pushing and pulling on the collective, but either way, there is not much bogging - nowhere near the kind of bogging I get with the rappy.

If you increase the weight by using larger or more cells, you will gain duration and possibly even performance if your motor can handle some extra Watts, but then your batteries will cost more. Still, imagine 2 x Kokam 2000 packs - 4000mAh, +/- 20min flying time, and the higher disk loading for the windy conditions down there - I would give it a try. I flew mine once with 2 x Kokam 1500 packs (315 woods) and enjoyed a nice long flight, the motor I was using at the time could not draw the current required to 3D with the extra weight (though I was still able to loop & roll), but the heli itself still flew quite nicely and was less sensitive to wind.

I'm also keen to try the SAB 320's - in every case where I change from wood to carbon, there is a big difference, I'm hoping for the same with the SAB's.

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05-11-2005 02:14 PM  13 years agoPost 10
electron_flyer

rrApprentice

Cape Town, South Africa

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Im running the Mega 16-15-3 on 11t, TP2100 3S pack, 11-12 mins, 2300-2400rpm. 100-90-100, and 20-80-100 fixed throttle mode. Throttle hold switches on/off (to 20% in normal mode) Im gonna leave the settings as is when converting over to stretch.

I also found pitchiness if the rpm drops off too much eg, in the last minute of battery power, autorotating practise at -3 or so, 30% power, but 2400 is def. the sweet spot for power/duration. Stiffening the head with the fuel tube mod helped the pitchiness a bit, but untimately, the retreating blade is stalling so I either need to slow up the forward speed or increase the rotor speed.

I initially set the pitch to 9 deg a la R30 but the climout was pathetic. On maxing the collective throw and sharing it over the +- range, the climb is amazing and no bogging, in fact I never use full collective as im worried the head might leave the body behind, I may redistribute some of that posive pitch to the negative side to balance it a bit better as inverted climout is not so good. Im transferring the pitch one turn at a time on the links as the pitch guage is not sensitive enough for that last adjustment ( and its off the scale anyway!)

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