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05-04-2005 06:44 PM  13 years agoPost 1
Mattiward

rrApprentice

160ft off the deck 10ft from 400,000 volts - U.K.

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How on earth do i get the ball races off nevermind get the shaft out of the head????

plz help

ps - its only slightly bent!!!!

Matti

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05-04-2005 06:59 PM  13 years agoPost 2
wings

rrApprentice

Stafford, UK

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Slightly bent is bent enough to need replacing - steel is the better replacement option for a main shaft. Not sure why you need to remove the bearings though, to remove the shaft you just need to remove the head (1 bolt and a few pushrods), undo the collars, unwind the collective pushrod from the little plastic insert (treaded at the end inside the mainshaft) - then remove the insert (little black plastic piece in the centre of the collective hub). The shaft should slide out then. If this is the info you need then hola back and i can go through it in more detail if needed.

hope it helps, ps. its less tricky than it sounds!

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05-04-2005 07:01 PM  13 years agoPost 3
wings

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Stafford, UK

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pps. if its the feathering shaft thaats bent its far easier, there's a nut on either end after you have removed the blade holdrs, remove one of the nuts and slide it out. Again best to replace it if its even slightly bent, blades wont track otherwise.

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05-04-2005 07:03 PM  13 years agoPost 4
wings

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Stafford, UK

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ppps the battris ar gong on m keybord !!!!!lol

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05-04-2005 07:19 PM  13 years agoPost 5
Mattiward

rrApprentice

160ft off the deck 10ft from 400,000 volts - U.K.

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in my hands all ive got is the head with the feathering spindle through it with 2 ballraces on either side. ive removed the nilocks but cant budge the spindle?!?!?!? the races dont even budge?

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05-04-2005 09:40 PM  13 years agoPost 6
wings

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Stafford, UK

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ok, the bearings should just slide off. if the shaft is noticably bent you can try and straighten it using two pairs of pliers. The shaft is really ductile and bends really easily. when its close to straight you should be able to push it out one way or the other, there is nothing else holding it in.

that is how i remove mine after a stack, its quite a common replacement, i recommend ordering two so you have a spare.

hope this helped.

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05-04-2005 11:21 PM  13 years agoPost 7
leslie

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Hollis, NH - USA

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Hi,

Okay, I'm embarassed, what is a feathering shaft and where is it? Is this part of the head or tail?

Cheers,
Leslie

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05-05-2005 08:34 PM  13 years agoPost 8
wings

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Stafford, UK

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Ok,...

the feathering shaft runs through the head horizontal to the ground, it holds two bearings either side of the head that the blade grips clamp down on, allowing rotation of the blades for cyclic/collective. It is threaded either end to allow for 2 captive nuts to hold the bearings on. The shaft itself rests on two rubber 'o' rings that are recessed into the head block, allowing the blades to find thier own centre and allows for a little damping during flight. The shaft itself is made from low yeild ductile steel which will bend very easily, it's designed that way so if you strike something with a blade the feathering shaft will bend before the mainshaft, it's therefore sacrificial. Its well worth haaving an awareness of this shaft and its job, remember it bends real easy and then your blades wont track too well. You can straighten them out after a crash as a get by but a new one is always a better idea.

hope that helped explain, that little shaft can have a massive effect on your flight.

PS i wouldn't recommend messing about with the rubber 'o' rings either, i've tried a few mods and found that the stock rings are about the best all round solution, stiffer dmping yields better cyclic response but at the cost of smooth flight. A softer damping yeilds the opposite, a very smooth flight but not too responsive in aggressive moves.

hope this helps explain.

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05-06-2005 12:21 AM  13 years agoPost 9
leslie

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Hollis, NH - USA

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Hi Wings,

Thanks for explanation. I don't always get into how each part functions till I break it

Question: I had, what I thought was a medium hard landing, the next day I found I had bent the main shaft, no surprise. I replaced it and put helihobby woodies on it. Off I go.

I found I had a tail bounce (up and down) so I pulled the mains balance (they were out) fixed, check the tail blades, and the paddles for balance and tracking.

I currently have a slight tail bounce, most noticeable in a breeze into the tail.

Would a bent feather shaft exhibit this behavior? It is slight, but annoying. Goes away at higher head speeds, but on deceleration it bounces a bit.

Curious,
Leslie

Protecting those who protect us

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05-07-2005 08:44 PM  13 years agoPost 10
wings

rrApprentice

Stafford, UK

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I would not think so, a bent feathering shaft would cause the blades not to track, and also a little vibration if not too bad. You should notice the blades not tracking if it were too bad.

The 'nod' that you refer to is something i am all too familiar with! i have spent a lot of time tracking down the cause. I tried checking and tuning everything from the servo's up. The cause in my case was the main blades weren't balanced correctly, CofG was off. Try checking your blades again, for both CofG and weight - especially if this problem started after you put new ones on, and also re-check the balance of your flybar & paddles. I have also been informed that this can be a problem caused by low head speed, i personally run at 2300rpm which is quite high.

To test if it is the main blades you can remove them and then power up the heli to about half throttle, if the problem is in the tail you will see it bounce still. If it all tracks smooth and nothing bounces then it means your flybar and tail assemblies are ok. you will also see if your main shaft runs true. DO NOT THROTTLE UP TO FULL - without the blades on the motor would over speed and possibly damage.

Let me know how it turns out...

PS this problem gets worse if you start stiffening the head and increasing the cyclic response, i put some heliup 3d mixers on and I had to address the problem, previously it wasn't to bad. I must stress that the Heliup 3D mixers were not the cause of this, and in fact they are a fantastic upgrade worth every penny!

Give me a hola if i can help out with anything.

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05-07-2005 10:33 PM  13 years agoPost 11
leslie

rrKey Veteran

Hollis, NH - USA

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Hi Wings,

How do you check CG? I'm assuming blade CG because the heli is well balanced.

I've balanced my blades by removing them from my heli, putting a threaded rod through with two nuts holding them and balance on the threaded rod.

I've been running my throttle and pitch curves linear 0-100. I dropped my + pitch down a bit to try and acheive more head speed. This seems to have helped. The nod is only slight, it might be headspeed or simply the bit of breeze I've been flying in. I'm flying on a knoll and the wind follows the hill occasionally, causing havoc.

I'm thinking headspeed also because it tends to show up when I come down from 20-30 feet, I get a little nod. When I stabilize at 6-10 feet, no problem.

I don't recall the problem when I was running the foamies.

Since it's raining, again! I'll pull the mains and spin her up and see what's what.

Thanks for the help--
Cheers,
Leslie

Protecting those who protect us

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05-08-2005 08:47 AM  13 years agoPost 12
wings

rrApprentice

Stafford, UK

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yep your problem is identical to what i had, to balance the blades CoG follow the instructions below:

Main blades balancing, Static and dynamic.
For this you have to find out the centre of balance of each blade first, you can use a ruler for this if you have not got a blade balancer. You must mark the CoG (the point of balance). This may be at different places on each blade. you would then need to bring the blade with the centre of gravity outer most to the same as the other blade. To do this you add blade tape to the tip till the CoG matches the other.

When you have done this you then have to get then both weighing the same. To do this without a blade balancer you can bolt the blades together then tie some string to the bolt. spread the blades out so that they are opposite each other and straight. make sure the string is as central as pos.
Now if one blade is heavier than the other you apply tape to the lighter one - bt you must put the tape over the CoG mark on the blade. Do this till they are level. you now have balanced blades, both static and dynamically.

Have you modified any of the swash / mixer assembly at all? I run an alu head, Hup 3D mixers, Hup flybar carrier, T-Rex flybar and paddles and MH T-Rex flybar control levers. Running this setup i have eliminted all of the z-bend linkages and replaced them with ball joints or bearings, hence removing all slop. One of my downfalls was not maatching the pushrod lengths exactly at first. I used some digital calipers in the end to make sure each pair were exactly the same length.

With wood blades i suspect CofG is more likely to be off than with carbons or glass blades. let me know how it turns out.

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05-08-2005 01:42 PM  13 years agoPost 13
leslie

rrKey Veteran

Hollis, NH - USA

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Hi Wings,

Thanks, I give the CG measurement a try today. Is not exactly raining but it's very windy

I pulled the mains and spun here up on a table, runs real smooth and the tail does not move. Back to suspecting the CG.

I have not modified the swash/mixer assembly. I'm running stock with a himax 2025-4200 motor and upgraded tail box/grip bearings.

I'll adjust the CG of the blades and rebalance them, I'll let you know how things work out, when I get a calmer day.

Thanks for the help,
Leslie

Protecting those who protect us

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