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HomeAircraftHelicopterCentury Radikal G20-30 N640 Hawk Predator › Help Needed please P-Gasser
04-04-2005 04:09 AM  13 years agoPost 1


Long Island N.Y U.S.A.

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I have a couple of questions i have built about 5 Raptor Helis on my own but am haveing a tuff time with my New Predator Gasser first problem i dont think it is a good idea to install the straight nipple on the seam of the main tank is it ok to move a few MM down ? second Question Ricks sent me some Tygon with my kit only 2 feet of 1/16 id &3/32 id is this the correct sizes also on the three nipples which sizes go where also is 2 feet of each enough?next my kit was purchased 3 weeks ago Question #3 i purchased i thought was the Upgraded Bearing block with Thrust/bearing can someone tell me where the thrust bearing goes sorry but on all my Raptors that i have built the trust bearing all go in the blade grips which i understand is not the case here also in one package i found 2 shims that are the same size as the shims for the sprague gear how many do you use on the sprague gear and what are a total of 5 for also on page 14 step 29 clutch bell and short bearing block i believe it mentions something about taking apart the pinion off the clutch bell to install bearing it looks like it was prebuilt tho the pinion twisted right off can someone explain these few steps in a little detail sorry but dont want to make any mistake on this Bird Thanks from a former Raptor pilot He He Remeber this is a new kit purchased in March 2005.Thank you for any info. Rob G

04-04-2005 08:38 AM  13 years agoPost 2


Retford Notts UK

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Hi Rob1962

Step 42 & 44 show where the thrust washers go at the top and bottom of the mainshaft, just like building Raptor blade grips up,make sure you have the diameters right on the inside of the thrust washers. Quoting Agrav8 ."You need to PLAN out where your going to put the fittings on the fuel tank and how your going to route the fuel line. I used tygon, F4040 for the main fuel lines to the carb (1/8 inch ID) and 3/32 ID for the vent line. There are only 3 lines on my ship, a main supply (attached to the clunk) a return from the carb, and a smaller vent line. Get 3 feet of each"

I did'nt need shims in my maingear but some guys have found they have some lift in the gear and have had to fit a shim.
Anything that is pre-built should be taken apart, never trust it.
Take the pinion off, press out the clutch bell then press the bearing out add some red locktite to the outer edge of the bearing and refit it,press the clutch bell back in and screw the pinion back on ,it should'nt really need to be locktite'd because it tightens as it turns the maingear.
This link may help

Hope this helps


Never eat yellow snow!

04-04-2005 11:14 AM  13 years agoPost 3


Mosquito Coast......Houston Texas

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here ya go

note the lower line is BELOW the centerline of the tank. That is the clunk line. The key here is to have a flat area of the tank for the fitting to seal against.

Fuel tubing:

2 ft each is enough.

use the small tubing as follows: cut a 4 inch length, attach it to the stens fuel filter, the other end to a curved fitting (a tetra they sent you) for the lower line. Use the rest of the small tubing for the vent line, this is the one on top of the tank, using the CENTURY supplied curved fitting that is BLANK on one end. That is on top of the tank, about an inch from the back edge, centered up.

LARGE tubing: run a length from the lower curved tetra nipple to the inlet of the carb. Install another tetra curved fitting above the first one (see picture), and a length of tubing from it to the return from the carb.

I put just a dab of blue on the pinion. As stated above, torque keeps it tight.

Man, I gotta get that darn video finished !


GOOD guy list-39, BAD guy list-0

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