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HomeAircraftHelicopterHenseleit 3DNT - Rocket - 3DMP › My 3DMP build + Neu 1515/2Y + The Box
04-01-2005 06:09 AM  13 years agoPost 1
dnamrrVeteran - Herndon, VA - USA - My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Hey guys!

I have been busy the last few nights putting together my new baby. Man, this is such an awesome kit! The pictures I've seen so far don't do it justice. The canopy and stance of the heli is just WAY cool! If you don't have one you must see one in person!! I am sure you'll fall in love with it! All the parts are so well made with everything SO precise. I am much more impressed than I thought I would be!

I hope the below pictures convey somewhat how great this kit looks. I am not finished yet as the kit is so nice it deserves special attention to get everything perfect.

Here's my equipment:
*3DMP kit (from http://www.revolutionmodels.co.uk Dave is great and shipping from the UK was only 3 business days! They even have the full parts list on their site so ordering is real easy)
*NHP Razor blades (white)
*Volz servos
*Kontronik 55-10-32 ESC
*Kontronik BEC30
*micro CSM SL560 gyro
*FMA FS8 Co-pilot failsafe system (don't flame please, this is an expensive kit read this thread and you'll see my reasons for using it: http://www.runryder.com/t150832p1)
*Neu 1515/2Y motor + Box
*TP10S2P Pro-lite packs
*Eagle Tree Systems flight data recorder


Really like the look of these white NHPs. Should be able to see better in flight.


I wish TP had CF hard casing for their packs like FlightPower has. I would feel a lot better about battery protection that way. Maybe I'll fabricate some...


The surfaces of the metal and even the plastic parts are so smooth, they're slippery.


The ball links are very tight so I used the ball link resizing tool to get them to move freely. Actually kind of over did it with some of the links and made them a little too loose. Just received the new links today from Revo, so I'll change those.


Everything is really smooth and there's zero slop anywhere. I had to dremmel/file the back edges of the TR to get it moving freely.


Love the chrome look of the servo case!


It took me quite a bit of time to but the box together as one has to keep taking it apart and reassembling it to get everything right (mark areas on shaft to make flats, get gear mesh right etc.). Actually what made it hard was that the long shaft is very tight in the bearings (which is a good thing when the system is running) and needed some light hammering to move each time I wanted to take it apart.

(Gary, the instructions diagram seems to have a wrong picture! Both the two bearings should have their "wings" on the inside of the box, right? One of the pictures in the instructions that came with the box shows one of the bearings being mounted from the outside. This needs correction I think. Hope you understand what I just wrote )


Trying to figure out where to mount all the electronics.


Not finished yet, just couldn't wait to show it to the guys. That's my friend's Raptor 50.


That's my T-rex.

More to come.

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04-01-2005 06:18 AM  13 years agoPost 2
dnam

rrVeteran

Herndon, VA - USA

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David (rcman),

Thanks for your comments when I was trying to decide what equipment I wanted to buy. It looks like the whole thing will be great! BTW Gary is sending me some ceramic bearings as well just to be on the safe side.

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04-01-2005 06:20 AM  13 years agoPost 3
rcman

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Logan, Utah

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Sure looks nice
Keeps us updated, are you planning on flying it this weekend?
David

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04-01-2005 01:19 PM  13 years agoPost 4
Reesy

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In the doghouse ... Nottingham UK

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Hi Nam
What gearing you going for? Are you game to try my pet theory of 11T with about 1600HS and sh$tloads of torque?

Paul

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04-01-2005 03:01 PM  13 years agoPost 5
dnam

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Herndon, VA - USA

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Hmm, good idea as many are turning down their throttle to 70% anyway. Right now I have a 14t pinion on to get around same HS as with the Kontronik motor without box. Wife want's me to paint the apartment so won't be finished for a few days.

How tight are your blades in the grips? I could get them in there fine, but then they are REALLY snug and hard to move. Did your's loosen up during the first few flights or you needed to do some sanding?

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04-01-2005 04:20 PM  13 years agoPost 6
Thuvanduc

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Salt Lake City, Utah

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dnam

Any reason why you not use the Hacker SPC as a combo set from TP Pack for the Neu 1515/2Y+Box, but the Kontronic?

I, too got the 3DMP kit and servos from Revolution. But have not have time to put together, and still have not decide on what SPC/motor to go with. Please let me know how the Neu motor and the box work out for you.

Duc

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04-01-2005 04:23 PM  13 years agoPost 7
Thuvanduc

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Salt Lake City, Utah

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David (rcman)

You have not response to me how is your Neu motor with the Box does. Don't tell me you're still testing it. And what pinion is best for this setup.

Duc

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04-01-2005 04:25 PM  13 years agoPost 8
rcman

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Logan, Utah

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Reesy, I tried the stock 11 tooth pinnion on my boxed Nue and yes there was a lot of torque, but the way I fly the tail suffered from running lower HS with lots of torque. In inverted backward flight, if you weren' perfect on the collective it would fall out. 12 tooth feels about the same as the stock Tango 45-07, I didn't get to try the 13 or 14 hopefuly this weekend.


Dnam, after spending the cash on the 3DMP setup you better help out the wife and paint the apartment

David

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04-01-2005 04:33 PM  13 years agoPost 9
rcman

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Logan, Utah

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Oh one more thing Duc,
The major difference between the Hacker and Jazz is the Jazz Gov. part works much better then the Hacker
David

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04-01-2005 04:45 PM  13 years agoPost 10
Thuvanduc

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Salt Lake City, Utah

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I disscussed with Gary from TP Pack and he said 3D pilots like the Szabos use the Hacker SPC with throttle curve with the Neu motor on their R50E; made an incredible machine.

So my question is governor or throttle curve?

Regard
Duc

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04-01-2005 04:54 PM  13 years agoPost 11
dnam

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Herndon, VA - USA

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I think it is pretty simple why the Szabos use throttle curves, because the Hacker ESCs have crappy governors! Gary didn't sell Kontronik stuff to the guys because that is not what he has in stock.

If you can setup good throttle curves than you can do that, but it is just so much easier to set a linear level line when using the Jazz's Gov.

If you really want to keep the HS you can use an external Throttle Jockey or such. I heard they keep the HS even better than the ESC gov mode in the Jazz, but that might be overkill.

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04-01-2005 05:01 PM  13 years agoPost 12
rcman

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Logan, Utah

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Duc I think you can handle setting up the pitch curves
If not I will help you I use the Hacker ESC in all my Ions and the 3DMP with "the boxed Nue" The stock 3DMP has the Jazz ESC in it
David

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04-01-2005 05:10 PM  13 years agoPost 13
Thuvanduc

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Salt Lake City, Utah

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I guess you can set up the throttle curves just like with the IC engine. It would be nice to be able to do both, so that you can switch off the governor mode and use the curves or vice versa.

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04-02-2005 02:10 PM  13 years agoPost 14
blade3d

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New Jersey USA

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Nice too bad it's electric,,

Blade3d
Rupert

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04-02-2005 03:19 PM  13 years agoPost 15
tahustvedt

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Troms, Norway

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I love this heli. Hopefully I'll be able to buy one some day. The pictures in this thread are the best I have seen of the construction process. It's really interesting. and I can't believe how cool it looks without paint!
Nice too bad it's electric,,
Why?

-I got wheels... with clickety-clackers-

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04-02-2005 04:03 PM  13 years agoPost 16
Tanner Hall

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A2, MI

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i agree it looks cool even with an unpainted canopy. but a professional custom paint job would be very sweet...
Nice too bad it's electric,,
please crawl back into your little hole. thanks.

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04-03-2005 01:20 PM  13 years agoPost 17
Reesy

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In the doghouse ... Nottingham UK

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Hello David
thanks for the update on the 11T
I still think it might be an option for Nam at least when he's running his batts in.
When you say the 12T feels like a Tango is there much difference? bogging climbing etc? or do they feel very similar?

Many thanks

Paul

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04-20-2005 06:47 PM  13 years agoPost 18
dnamrrVeteran - Herndon, VA - USA - My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

OK, at last I finished my 3DMP! I don't know how I managed to have it just sit on the table for so long. Here are some pics of the second stage.


Some water is trapped after you do the dip in boiling water shrinking method, but it spins out the first time you spool up the heli.


It took a few tries to get the shrink tubing to sit right at the ends, lucky thing Jan gave extra shrink tubing with the kit. I think it's a good idea to make small slits beside the brass part so when the tube shrinks it doesn't shrink onto the brass but around it, so it will be more snug on the flybar paddle ends. Pic is after I trimmed the excess off.


Eagle Tree Systems Seagull wireless telemetry transmitter. The small tube on the landing gear is the Pitot Tube to measure air speed.


Very easy to get the swash level with the included swash plate lock (not in pic).


The wire tucked beside the battery is one of the heat sensors. As for the loose hanging connector, don't worry about it, I'll change all the connectors to Anderson Powerpoles today (actually I am changing all my connectors on all my models and accessories as I think it's a great system).

http://www.flyrc.com/articles/using_powerpole_1.shtml


The other heat sensor on the motor.


Tried to hide most of the wires.


The blades were too tight in the blade grips at first but after moving them left-right for a while they loosened up a bit.


I am using the Kontronik BEC30 by itself with no seperate Rx batts. Also using the PCM Rx for the Futaba 14MZ and the system is totally glitch free. (Had a LOT of glitches with the FS8 Rx.) BTW I just recently received the Futaba Tx and man, it's just so awesome! Love the way it gives you voice confirmations when you flip a switch, also the way it is just so easy to assign switches to whatever function you want them to do. The whole radio is very easy to program for that matter.

It has a great quality feel to it and looks more impressive in person than on the pics. Hmm, might as well put some pics of the radio here as well (after this post).


G-force sensor and the Eagle Tree Systems data recorder at the front. With the TP10S2P pack CG is pretty much spot on.


I wedged pieces of foam beside the battery to keep it snug. One piece on each side at the back here does the trick as the front is already steady between the side frames.


She's ready to fly! Only thing left is to put on new connectors when they arrive. At that time I will also put on the electric expansion for the Eagle Tree system to measure Amps, Volts etc. Oh yes, and the optical sensor to measure headspeed as well when that comes back from Eagle Tree as I am going to use the Model Avionics Throttle Jockey's optical sensor instead of the stock magnets (it's a lot easier to stick a piece of reflective tape onto the main gear than to glue on the magnets). The reason I sent it in to Eagle is so that they can check the polarity to make sure it will work with their system.


This heli just looks so awesome, man!! Clear coat on the metallic red "windshield" turned out pretty good luckily...

To just paint it like this was very quick and easy to do, since it was only one color and the clear.


Originally there is only one hole at the top of the canopy but the outlines of a second is already marked so I dremmeled that one out too. I think this is actually needed as the motor with box does not sit right under the big original hole.

Had two test flights yesterday and all I can say is WOW! This heli feels so nice and controlled in the air! Did some very basic stuff with throttle only at 50% to break in the batts but you can really feel the power potencial. It looks SO badass as well!

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04-20-2005 06:58 PM  13 years agoPost 19
rcman

rrKey Veteran

Logan, Utah

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Cool, get out there and fly
What pinion are you using with the box?
David

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04-20-2005 07:00 PM  13 years agoPost 20
dnamrrVeteran - Herndon, VA - USA - My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Here are the promised pics of the radio.


Beside my "old" JR9303. This Futaba is just SO smooth, even my T-rex feels better with it. I can actually hold even the small T-rex (Shadow 1 Rx) in a steadier hover and have a more connected feel to it although I am not using the G3 PCM Rx with it!


The flash makes it look a little grainy. It is actaully a lot smoother than this.


The battery door is racheted is stays open in any position, and feels so nice and smooth when moved. I guess it adds to the quality feel. You can even comb your hair looking into the very shiny side of it!


Picture doesn't do it justice. The screen is very nice with very good contrast.

All in all I am very happy with this purchase as well. It has so many nice touches and features it definitely hightens my enjoyment of the hobby!

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