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HomeAircraftHelicopterCentury Radikal G20-30 N640 Hawk Predator › Sharing Pics of My Hawk :)
04-01-2005 05:55 AM  13 years agoPost 1
darkfa8

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Brick, NJ - USA

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I just took a bunch of new pics of my Hawk Sport. Thought I'd share them and see what you all think of the setup.

There is a 6mm head axle in there with the thrust bearings and the bushings are lubed with DuPont Krytox..same lube used on the space shuttle seals :P

This is my Du-Bro Kwik-Fill on the feed line to the carb. I will be replacing it with a Slimline Excell Fueler System which is essentially the same thing but will be compatable with my Slimline M4 cap/pump setup. This allows me to plug into the heli and pump in fuel or suck it out. No clamps or valves to screw with, no excessive lines, simplicity and cleanliness. I run a Sullivan crap trap on the pump feed from the bottle and the new Excell fueler has another filter in the orfice that plugs into the port that will be on the heli.

This is my recent cooling shroud mod to fit the OS 32 head so as not to cause any more melting of the plastic...

Polished stock main-shaft in a drill chuck with coarse Scotchbrite pad then some 2000 grit emry cloth, makes everything silky-smooth

This is my transmission gear modification. I drilled a hole, denoted by the arrow, into the plastic molded-in collar and just touched the metal shaft. Then I threaded in a allen set-screw from my Hawk Hardware Kit, then wicked in some thin CA. This took a lot of slop out since this shaft rotates and the pin under there can wear into the gear and just cause more slop. I also took all the slop out of the top part of the shaft by shifting the drive pinion down until it bottomed out on the shims and bearing. I also took out the allen screw, put on blue loc-tite and added a second allen screw to the other threaded hole in the pinion for reassurance. I made sure the pinion still engaged the counter gear properly and all is good-n-tight

I know these should be wrapped in foam.. BUT, I'm going to be getting Castle Creations soon-to-be-released redesigned Berg 7-channel receiver and I'll get a new battery to compensate for all the weight loss. The stock Futaba receiver weighs in at a portly 43 grams, the new Berg 7 should be less then 10 grams and my removing of the rear horizontal stab and stock vert stab with just my 0.8oz. aluminum stinger (making another out of thinner material soon should make for a effective weight loss of 30+ grams

- Dan Goldstein
Team Revolectrix

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04-01-2005 06:09 AM  13 years agoPost 2
wedge

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Victoria BC, Canada

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Looks really nice man, real clean setup. Mine is just going through a complete revamp now, still unfinished. Maybe I will post some pics when done too.

Victoria BC, Canada, Century Swift,Trex SA 450, Hummingbird V3.

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04-01-2005 01:41 PM  13 years agoPost 3
Scooterpilot

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Southern, California

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Hawk
Dan,

Very useful information on the model. I'll refer back to this post when I'm building the Hawk Pro.

Keep up the good work

Scooterpilot

Two G-4's & X50's YS60SR,Futaba 18SZ/12Z/14FG, ,Rail Blades Rep

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04-01-2005 03:13 PM  13 years agoPost 4
NewHeli

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Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA

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Very nice pictures! But while you're at it, why not make a runryder gallery?

NewHeli

Nathaniel Rice
Team YS Engines

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04-01-2005 04:37 PM  13 years agoPost 5
BC Don

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Calgary, AB Canada

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A couple of things different from my setup:

1) I put my gyro right behind the Rx, I feel it is more protected in the servo cage plus it puts a little bit of weight more forward.

2) I agree, get a larger battery for weight up front (or an extension) so you don't have useless lead up front.

3) I thought of polishing the main shaft but I go through them too often still. Once I'm in a position where I can go a few months without crashing I may do more "pretty up" work.

4) I have the Dubro fueler in my Funtana, hadn't thought of putting it in my Heli. Like others, I have the 3 way with the filter in place and I have clamps between the 3 way and the engine (and between the muffler and tank) - with the clamps I can shut off all fuel flow for storage / transportation or when I'm working on the Heli.

However, NICE setup. What's your Canopy look like?

Got Money? Send it to me, I'm a Heli Addict.

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04-01-2005 06:27 PM  13 years agoPost 6
darkfa8

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Brick, NJ - USA

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Testors Flourescent Racing Yellow paint on canopy with Testors Metallic Black on windshield. I flashed the canopy and then put on Duplicolor Adhesion Promoter (auto body stuff) and then spary on my color for the canopy. It's getting a bit sticky from the fuel and sorta orange peel, but it's not flaking or chipping off. I think I might try Top Flight's paint next since it is outright fuel proof....

BC Don, polishing the main shaft literally takes about 15-20 minutes, if that. It really smooths out the swash movement since the psuedo-hardned coating they have on there from the factory is junk. I put one drop of Tri-flow on the main shaft above the swash and that's it. I wipe it down after every day of flying to keep it clean and debris free. You disconnect the linkages from the cyclic arms at the base of the swash, take the one allen screw out of the rotor head, pull that assembly off, then loosen the two set screws in the aluminum collar under the mainshaft bearing block, then take out one allen screw under the counter gear, pull it out.. polish, assemble in reverse, make sure to re-apply blue loc-tite to the collar set-screws and set for the least amount of clearance possible... easy and effective :P

If you really want to go nutty, you can do the same thing to the tail rotor shaft...

I just got my Slimline Excel Fueler today. I'm gonna make a lil bracket for it to secure it to the frame. It's a bit more bulky then the Du-Bro Kwik-Fill, but it's compatable with my Slimline M4 fueling cap/pump setup....so that'll work.

As for the gyro placement... my buddy Brent who helped me set this heli up placed it there. It seemed to be a good spot since the trim pots were accessible through the side of the frame.

I suppose if I put it up on the servo tray and behind the power switch, with my tail rotor servo being on the boom, i could position it so i could reach the pots with a long flat head screw driver...but.. for the time being, the most i'd do is move it a lil farther back towards the fuel tank...away from the engine.

BTW, on the radio tray, I have all the wires and such looped together and then covered with 3:1 heat shrink tubing available at Home Depot or Lowes in their electrical section. Keeps them tidy.

Thanks for all the comments I'm a clean/organizational freak .. so my heli is a good reflection of that... oh, that and I have a penchant for modifying, but it's not like this is some P-Gasser...that'll be the next ship I own once I master this one

- Dan Goldstein
Team Revolectrix

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04-01-2005 06:58 PM  13 years agoPost 7
BC Don

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Calgary, AB Canada

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I found that I could do a quick polish the main shaft in just a couple of minutes by using some (I think it is 800 grit, could be more or less) wet/dry emery cloth with a couple drops of tri-flow on it. Just that I haven't lasted very long without crashing. Think I'll redo this before I put it back together (still waiting for parts).

Yes, with the gyro where I have it I can't easily get to the pots and I've used a longer screwdriver but I'm able to move the pots further than I should. I now just take the elastics off the battery and Rx and reach in with the little stubby black 401 screwdriver.

I'll post pictures of my old canopy (new paint) once I'm finished. It will be ugly, just a spray can. I flashed it, was going to bumper prime it but forgot so just sprayed it. Waited 24 hours to do the 2nd colour which had me mask the first but the paint hadn't adhered that well and some came off. So, I'm going to cut a cardboard triangle stencil and old that over the while part and spray it somehow.

I've found that flashing, then putting 3 coats of the bumper primer on then 3 light coats of Lexan paint (the kind used for RC cars) seems to hold really well as long as you let it dry for a few days and cure well. Stays flexible. I've tried the duplo automotive paint instead of the lexan but it isn't nearly as flexible.

I generally like things nice and neat and clean but this is my "learner Heli" so I'm not all that concerned with it (although I keep getting the purple boom cause I like the look of it).

Hopefully the parts are here soon.

Got Money? Send it to me, I'm a Heli Addict.

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04-01-2005 09:04 PM  13 years agoPost 8
NewHeli

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Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA

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Dan, I would suggest putting your battery and reciever in foam rubber.

NewHeli

Nathaniel Rice
Team YS Engines

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04-01-2005 09:30 PM  13 years agoPost 9
Gearhead

rrMaster

Vt

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darkfa8, nice photos, nice camera (what camera is it ??), I paid $280 for my digital camera 2 years ago, it was rated the top camera in it's price range at that time and it wont take photos like that.

Jim

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04-02-2005 12:29 AM  13 years agoPost 10
Syclic

rrApprentice

Northern Hemisphere Ont.

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darkfa8,

Some nice pictures. I noted in your picture #3 that shows the side on view of your throttle and pitch servos and the position of the throttle barrel arm, the collective arm and the roll cyclic (aileron to the plankers)bellcrank.

I hope you are not flying with it configured that way. When your collective stick is at half (with a 50% output) your pitch servo arm should be pointing straight up and the lower section of the L shaped pitch arm should also be pointed straight down (parallel to each other). Then with the swashplate level, the aileron bellcranks on each side should be set so that they have one side pointing pointing straight down (90 degrees to the center line of the long side of the L shaped pitch arm).

Then with your swashplate and flybar being level, you continue up the mast adjusting the links so the washout arms are level and the bell mixer is level. Now you should be at 0 degrees pitch at half stick and have an almost linear (one cannot get a perfectly linear set up here because the lower part of the L-shaped collective arm is not long enough) travel up from there and down from there. Now use your radio software to dial in 5.5 to 6 degrees at 3/4 stick, 9 degrees at full stick and -1 degrees at 1/4 stick and -2 degrees at full down stick for a good training curve.

Then for an idle up 3D curve you will only have to chang the 1/4 point for a -5.5 degree of the stick travel and change the bottom stick setting to a -9 or -10 for a 3D setting.

Of course the throttle curve will have to be set to correlate these points to maintain the Rotor Speed one desires.

Albert

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04-02-2005 01:13 AM  13 years agoPost 11
westcoastchoper

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Denton, Tx

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Looks great! BC Don had a good point about the protection of the gyro being under the servo tray. But he didn't mention another good reason to move it. Every time I fly my hawk there is a puddle of oil right where your gyro is currently mounted. It is going to get soaked. In forward flight it won't be so bad, but while hovering(learning) everything outside the canopy gets oil on it.

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04-02-2005 02:23 AM  13 years agoPost 12
darkfa8

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Brick, NJ - USA

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My camera is a Olympus C750 4.0mp and I bought it for a discounted $400-something in 2003 while I was working at Circuit City. Normal retail was around $500. I use it for taking pics of Ebay items, web site photos and other odds and ends.

These pictures were taken with the heli rx and tx off, so all the servos were in a off-state and all the cyclic/collective settings were moved as result of my taking the blades out of the blade holder.

My gyro area doesn't seem to collect any sort of major residue. I do have a Du-Bro exhaust deflector pointed out and away from the machine. I wipe down the area after every flight anyway. I've thought about making a lil plastic-dip cover for the gyro also.

Here is pic of the milled out tail stinger. I know the upper slot is not straight. I'm going to make another out of thinner .090" and make it right.

Here is a pic of the .090" aluminum bracket for the Slimline Excel Fueler port that my friend Morgan and I made today.

I will eventually have these pieces powdercoated black

- Dan Goldstein
Team Revolectrix

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04-02-2005 02:48 AM  13 years agoPost 13
NewHeli

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Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA

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Good point Syclic! However, I would not recommend trying to pull +/- 10 degrees pitch with a 30. Unless you're using the OS 37 or a Toki 40...

Its seems that you were aware of the slop in the countergear assembly. In case you aren't, here is a topic I posted in with suggestions on how to fix the slop: http://www.runryder.com/t149412p1/

NewHeli

Nathaniel Rice
Team YS Engines

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04-02-2005 03:10 AM  13 years agoPost 14
darkfa8

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Brick, NJ - USA

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of course I'm aware of the slop in the counter gear assembly lol

that is why I pinned the bottom end of it with a allen screw, slid the pinion down on the shaft till it bottomed out, and added a second allen screw to the other tapped open hole on the pinion itself.

it's all good.

...and again, the pictures above were taken with the machine OFF and the blade holder had been taken off so everything was out of whack as compaired to where it is when its in ready-to-fly mode.

- Dan Goldstein
Team Revolectrix

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04-02-2005 01:04 PM  13 years agoPost 15
NewHeli

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Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA

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Good thing you fixed that. After a couple of months, that slop ruins the bearings and you get horrible glitching problems! So anytime you get a glitch with your hawk sport, go to the countergear assembly first!

NewHeli

Nathaniel Rice
Team YS Engines

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04-02-2005 11:22 PM  13 years agoPost 16
Syclic

rrApprentice

Northern Hemisphere Ont.

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NewHeli,

Note that for 3D I said to set at +9 / 0 / -10. The reason for the -10 for inverted is because of the softer trainer type of damping in the 5mm spindle system of the Hawk means the floating spindle has a lot more vertical movement then in a harder damped system (probably why they are now offereong the special 5 to 6mm spacers and harder dampers on the Hawk Pro). The result of the system on the Sport is that when you are inverted you will lose at least one degree of effective pitch
(probably more) due to this vertical travel, so setting it for -10 on the bench will mean that when airborn and inverted you will really only get about -8.5 to -9 degrees of effective pitch.

As for the "slop" you guys are discussing in the primary gear, under load this is taken up naturally the same way your mainshaft takes up slop against the auto one way bearing (Note: with a one way bearing you have an infinit amount of slop one way and none the other).

What can cause the bearings to fail over a long period of time is the VERTICAL play of the primary shaft and the play between the shaft and the inner race of the support bearings. This can be taken up by using bearing/sleeve thread lock or even blue threadlock between the shaft and the inner race of the bearings and by either adding shims between the primary pinion and the inner race of the upper bearing until all verytical play is taken up or elongating the flat spot downward at the top of the primary shaft so that the primary pinion can be slipped down further to take up any play.

The mod you are talking about is irrelevant. There are a lot of Hawks Ravens and Falcons locally that are all very high time (500 plus flights) and none have any modes to the plastic primary gear, but all have the vertical play addressed and none have ever had bearing failures.

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04-03-2005 12:42 AM  13 years agoPost 17
NewHeli

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Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA

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When did I say that I modified the countergear? Or are you talking about darkfa8's "mod"?

All I did was eliminate the Vertical play by elongating the flat spot on the shaft and sliding the pinion further down. Yes you are correct that the vertical play will eventually cause bearing failure--it did for me. However, the threadlock only goes so far (tried that) and the glitching came back. So what did I do? I loosened the pinion gear set screw and tightened it up again.

Sorry I missed your detail there on the the +9 and -10. I put the trustbearing upgrade (6mm shaft) in my Hawk Sport, so the dampening has been tightened up a bit. I'm considering getting the new hard dampers for it, too.

NewHeli

Nathaniel Rice
Team YS Engines

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04-03-2005 12:47 AM  13 years agoPost 18
darkfa8

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Brick, NJ - USA

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ok, so were on the same page, using Century's terminology out of the Hawk manual...

The pinning I did was on the 55T Counter gear on it's drive shaft to eliminate the rotational play from the M2x12 pin moving back and forth horizontally in it's elongated slot.

I also moved the Alloy Drive Gear down on the shaft and installed a second allen screw into it's second tapped opening, blue loc-tite on both allen screws. There is no perceivable horizontal play in the Counter Gear Assembly once installed into the frame.

On the Main Gear and Shaft Assemlby I could see how the Mast Stopper could wear into the inner race of the top Main Shaft Bearing. I believe Century's thrust bearing kit would eliminate this and distribute the weight of the heli that the Mast Stopper endures.

In stock configuration it seems that the inner-race of the upper bearing for the Main Shaft has a side load applied to it and not a radial load of sorts. The thrust bearings are better suited to handling a side load in my opinion.

Currently, I just have the stock Mast Stopper set so there is little vertical play as possible.

I also have the 6mm head axle setup with thrust bearings. I will eventually will get the harder durometer dampners and also slide some fuel tubing onto the head axle portion that goes inside the rotor head to keep movement to a minimum.

- Dan Goldstein
Team Revolectrix

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04-03-2005 10:59 PM  13 years agoPost 19
Buzzin Brian

rrProfessor

College Station, Texas

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Move the gyro for sure. You might not notice an issue with fuel being there now, but you soon will as you advance. The fuel is NOT good for the gryo, and it will destroy the gyro tape in SHORT order. And the end result of that is NOT good in the least. Trust me, you do not want that gyro where it is. I also use deflectors on all of my helis, and all of them are covered in fuel at the end of the day. So do not think that you will not eventually have the same issue. I am just trying to save you from a real big future issue.

Build it, fly it, crash it. Repeat as often as needed.

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04-04-2005 03:42 AM  13 years agoPost 20
darkfa8

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Brick, NJ - USA

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i relocated the battery to under the radio tray, put the gyro at the front of the radio tray and perpendicular to the main shaft centerline, and wrapped the receiver in several layers of MLC Ensolite foam and slid that sideways behind the collective & throttle servos.

I am going to buy a heavier and higher capacity battery to give me more nose weight since the heli is still slightly tail heavy even with a empty fuel tank.

- Dan Goldstein
Team Revolectrix

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