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HomeAircraftHelicopterCentury Radikal G20-30 N640 Hawk Predator › Photo of the Torpedo drill / tap mod ??
03-29-2005 08:15 PM  13 years agoPost 1
lakespinner2

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north carolina

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I think the drill and tap mod on the Torpedo muffler is an evil hoax.

No matter which way I try to get a bolt long enough to go thru the header and the muffler, the round muffler itself gets in the way. If I put the bolt thru from the other direction the nuts won't sit flat because of the curvature of the mounting flange on the muffler.

It seems to be a physical impossibility but I've read at least half a dozen threads where it has been done successfully. I haven't been able to find ANY pictures. Anybody got a closeup picture? Pleeeeze ?

I have run those 4 bolts in and out with highly modified (ground down) wrenches several times and still no love. What a PAIN !!!!!

I thought I'd hit every snag possible building the first predator. Little did I know what a JOY it was to have the Hatori on the first one.

What's the trick? There's always a trick.

thanks

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03-29-2005 08:43 PM  13 years agoPost 2
JKos

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Redondo Beach, CA

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> If I put the bolt thru from the other direction the nuts won't sit flat

I used that to my advantage as a locking mechanism for the nuts. Just keep tightening them and they will dig into the metal. By the time you have them nice and tight, they are pretty much locked on.

- John

RR rules!

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03-29-2005 10:38 PM  13 years agoPost 3
lakespinner2

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north carolina

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Thanks John,

I finally got it on; I just hope it stays on. Whew !

If my math is correct it took about 120 wrench cranks per bolt to get each one installed. 480 total cranks to install all 4 bolts. 960 cranks for a round trip--4 bolts in and then back out. I've had the pleasure of two and a half round trips today. No wonder I'm cranky !

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03-29-2005 10:40 PM  13 years agoPost 4
JKos

rrProfessor

Redondo Beach, CA

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> it took about 120 wrench cranks per bolt to get each one installed.

Are you referring to the original mounting method? Surely it doesn't take that many after the mod. It is very quick and easy after the mod.

- John

RR rules!

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03-29-2005 10:59 PM  13 years agoPost 5
lakespinner2

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north carolina

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I guess I don't know what the proper mod IS. What I have now is as frustrating as the original method, although perhaps it's now more secure with lock washers and nuts on the back side.

I shoved 4 hex head bolts thru the header FROM the engine side and installed lock washers and nuts on the muffler flange. I drilled and tapped the muffler for 4 mm bolts.

I have never actually seen one that has been done so I'm sure there has to be an easier way.

I started to tap the header instead but I couldn't see any way to get the bolts thru the muffler holes because the round muffler body is SO close to the holes the screws wouldn't line up to go thru.

Like I said, I'm sure I'm not getting the jist of the proper method.

I could only get a wrench to turn approximately one facet of the hex head bolt each turn, hence the 6 cranks per turn X approximately 20 turns to lock the bolt down = 120 cranks per bolt. I tried all my sockets but I couldn't get them on the bolt head (except for the top bolt nearest the fan, that one had some clearance around it).

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03-29-2005 11:03 PM  13 years agoPost 6
JKos

rrProfessor

Redondo Beach, CA

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The "correct" mod is to tap the header and install the 4 mm bolts from the engine side using red LocTite (because you don't need to take them out anymore). You then drill out the holes in the muffler so that it slips on to the 4 mm studs. Put on the nuts (and lockwashers if you wish).

There is enough room between with the mounting flange and the muffler body for the bolts and nuts. If you size the 4 mm screws correctly, you can slip the muffler on and then put the nuts on, spinning them by hand and finishing with a few turns of a wrench.

- John

RR rules!

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03-29-2005 11:17 PM  13 years agoPost 7
lakespinner2

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north carolina

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That makes SOOOO much sense now !!

Well, it's too late for me to do that now unless I move up to 5 mm and frankly I'm sick of looking at it. It IS on and hopefully I'll not have to remove it any time soon.

If/when I do have to remove it I'll probably look into stepping up to the 5 mm or even trying one of the newer, hopefully non-peeling, torpedos.

Thanks John, I completely understand now. I don't know why it didn't click when I read the other threads about it. I think my gray matter may have sprung a leak.

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03-30-2005 03:03 AM  13 years agoPost 8
AGRAV8

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Mosquito Coast......Houston Texas

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From one of the originators of this.......

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03-30-2005 03:32 AM  13 years agoPost 9
lakespinner2

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north carolina

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They say a picture is worth a thousand words. That sounds about right. I can only imagine how much less 'Agrav8ing' it would be if there was a VIDEO showing all this!!!

A little picture or video would have saved me at least half a day today (and I'm just referring to 4 muffler screws).

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03-30-2005 05:50 AM  13 years agoPost 10
AGRAV8

rrProfessor

Mosquito Coast......Houston Texas

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Randy
I'm working on it. Promise.

Of course, I could have just sent you my spare to duplicate.....you really need to consider your resources

GOOD guy list-39, BAD guy list-0

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03-30-2005 12:33 PM  13 years agoPost 11
SteveH

rrProfessor

Texas

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I did mine a little differently, it seemed fairly easy, and it's working good.

James drills and taps the muffler 4mm and inserts studs and then uses nuts on the back side.

Instead of drilling and tapping 4mm, I just got some long threaded 3mm bolts, cut them off to use as studs, inserted them with red locktite, and put 3mm nuts on the back side. The installation is made just as easy in that you use a wrench instead of an allen key to install.

The government cannot give you anything without first taking it from someone else.

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