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Other › anyone having problems removing blade grips?
03-28-2005 07:04 AM  13 years agoPost 1
Buznee

rrVeteran

Palm Beach Gardens, FL

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Cant get those darn things off.

~Danny

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03-28-2005 09:18 AM  13 years agoPost 2
synchro505

rrApprentice

Topanga, CA

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Main blades or tail blades? If main, are you refering to the hex screws inside the feathering shaft? Maybe too much R48 on the threads?

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03-28-2005 10:45 AM  13 years agoPost 3
chappers

rrApprentice

north east of england

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ive got the same problem, ive given up trying and decided to replace stock head with upgrade if/when i damage it.

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03-28-2005 12:36 PM  13 years agoPost 4
Buznee

rrVeteran

Palm Beach Gardens, FL

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the screws come out fine... but the blade grips dont budge at all. ive tried everything. prying it with allens and all sorts of stuff. Its rediculous.

~Danny

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03-28-2005 01:47 PM  13 years agoPost 5
Kaos2800

rrNovice

Cary, NC

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I had the same problem. I got a litte of the R48 on the feathering shaft. Luckly, that only happened on one side so I was able to pull the grips off the head. Since I was replacing the feathering shaft anyway, I then turned it over and lightly tapped the feathering shaft and offending bearing out the front of the grip.

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03-28-2005 03:07 PM  13 years agoPost 6
tanasit

rrApprentice

Philly

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I had exactly the same problem and finally got them out by using the gear puller wedged slot and the $19 1/2 ton arbor press from Harbor Freight. The arbor press is the best investment I spent for the past many years. I wish I had it long time ago so that I didn't have to hammer the pinion gear onto the motor shaft and bend them sometimes. I use it to press the heatsink onto the motor and use it to remove the parts.

I used to have trouble adjusting the shaft on the tail drive of my Hornet II with a hammer (either too much or not enough) but with the arbor press, it is a one shot deal. The drill press can do similar job and may be a good invesment for around $50.

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