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HomeAircraftHelicopterThunder TigerOther › Upgrade clutch failure at 20 flights!!
07-18-2002 02:49 AM  16 years agoPost 1
vortechZ230

rrElite Veteran

U.S.A.

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Got a Raptor 30 ARF, last Christmas, with the O.S. 32 upgrade engine, I also ordered the heavy duty clutch, and the clutch shim from Heli Proz, just to be safe., At about 20 flights, of normal flying, The clutch broke!, So I think I will try the stock clutch this time and see what happens. What really ticks me off is whoever built this " ARF", Put red locktight on the pinion gear which screws into the clutch bell, I tore the clutch bell up trying to remove it from the pinion! , I finally had to split the frames, take the whole assembly out, and use channel locks to get the clutch bell and the pinion apart, Whoever did this to my heli, I curse you!!, you must be a real idiot!!!. Now I have to order a new clutch bell also!, I hope your happy, you MORON!!

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07-18-2002 03:15 AM  16 years agoPost 2
steve9534

rrKey Veteran

yakima, wa.

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Clutch
The new clutch will fail in short order if you don't put a new liner in the bell with the correct .010" clearance. Even some of the new ones were apparently too loose.
I'm not sure why you think you need to remove the clutch bell from the pinion gear. Unless the liner is completely gone and the inside of the bell ground away, you should never have to remove this. If you do, heating the bell with a torch for a minute or so will soften the Loctite and allow it to come off very easily. Steve.

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07-19-2002 12:55 AM  16 years agoPost 3
vortechZ230

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U.S.A.

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What A Let Down!!!
I was taking the clutch bell off so I could install a new liner..., I thought it would be easier to install, rather than try to do it while it was still in the heli., The other liner was tore up due to the clutch failure of the so called high carbon upgrade clutch, and the failure proof shim I got from Heli Proz, This combo proved to be quite useless, after failure of only around 20 flights of normal flying, I called Heli Proz and told them about this, and guess what they said: WELCOME TO THE RAPTOR CLUB!!!

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07-20-2002 01:56 PM  16 years agoPost 4
Michigan PI

rrApprentice

St Clair Shores, MI

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Alignment is the key to clutch longevity. Buying and installing the Heliproz "Fool Proof Shim" will actually cause the clutch to fail quicker if there is an alignment issue so take that shim and see how far it will sail when you throw it.
Although a 0.010" clearance is nice to have, it is MUCH more important to have a perfectly coencentric liner. If there is an irregularity in the liner, usually induced during installation, even a perfect alignment can have a failure. Contrary to popular belief, misalignmnet and/or a non-coencentric liner is THE sole cause of the tonal wah-wah (not the lean condition wah-wah). Many people claim that shimming the maingear will solve it but that remedy is like placing electrical tape over a trouble indicator light on your vehicle, it treats the symptom, NOT the cause. It is very important to ensure the clutch liner is true and the best way to do this is with a lathe

Vortech, I see that you are in Grand Blanc, feel free to contact me (my number is on the Ace site) and would be happy to help you out.

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09-20-2002 03:37 AM  15 years agoPost 5
billgraptor30

rrNovice

North East, Maryland

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i guess i got lucky with my heli proz clutch.
Haven't had a problem with it at all. By the way, I do not use the clutch shim. And, the only reason I had to replace the TT part is because the throttle linkage popped off on the ground, and engine went wide open. I burnt the clutch out kinda early that day.

Jeff. I haven't yet heard that the engine clutch is the cause of the wah wahs. I will add that to my 'troubleshooting list'. I have found that its caused by the auto hub. Either tail belt tension is too tight, or the maingear jesus bolt is too tight, and binds up the auto hub. Both will cause the auto hub to drive the maingear, and therefore drive the engine (since the engine clutch is still engaged, it will remain engaged due to the high RPMs. )

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09-20-2002 03:42 AM  15 years agoPost 6
billgraptor30

rrNovice

North East, Maryland

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Red Loctite...
is my friend. Its Very good stuff! I use it almost exclusively, and I DO use it on my clutch/pinion assembly. Personally, I do not want it to come apart, or even drift apart slowly. It really does not take a lot of heat to soften it enough for removal, and, unfortunately it doesn't work on the exhaust components. I tried that a few times no luck. (JB Weld does work though.) Helis just don't want to be helis. they prefer to be kits.

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09-20-2002 04:54 AM  15 years agoPost 7
Raeland

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NE Ohio

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A guy at the field has a butane soldering iron. I figured I would try this out for $4. The bidder is not me btw.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...&item=960358486

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09-20-2002 06:12 PM  15 years agoPost 8
kram

rrNovice

Arkansas

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heavy duty clutch
I got 24 flights on the heavy duty clutch prior to it breaking. I went back to the stock one, and while I dont recomment this, Ive got over 75 flights on the stock one without using a clutch liner. No problems, no glitches. I am using a clutch shim in both instances.

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