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HomeAircraftHelicopterCentury Radikal G20-30 N640 Hawk Predator News  NEW! Hawk Pro
05-03-2005 07:39 PM  13 years agoPost 181
marked23

rrKey Veteran

Lynnwood, WA

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That upgraded muffler is a smart choice. It's not that the upgrade is that good. It's just that the stock one is that bad. If you also got a OS37, you're going to need/want the upgraded muffler anyway.

I'm still flying my OS32 and a buddy loaned me his upgraded (century) muff. It was actually a noticeable improvement.

Good deal to get the upgrade!

-Mark

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05-03-2005 09:06 PM  13 years agoPost 182
NewHeli

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Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA

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lol Lucky you!

NewHeli

Nathaniel Rice
Team YS Engines

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05-04-2005 03:44 AM  13 years agoPost 183
Scooterpilot

rrKey Veteran

Southern, California

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Hawk Pro
Ok,

Finished building the Pro.

I upgraded the freathering spindle to 6mm, added thust bearings, and the red dampners.

I changed the counter gear and modified the main for constant tail drive for autos.

First hover was done tonight.. Lasted about 30 seconds. I shut it down and will start to break the motor in on Saturday. Some pics of the assembly are in my gallery. I'll post the finished pics next monday when I can upload them

I was amazed how quit the OS 37 is with that huge Hatori muffler hehehe

Regards,

Chuck

Two G-4's & X50's YS60SR,Futaba 18SZ/12Z/14FG, ,Rail Blades Rep

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05-04-2005 04:01 AM  13 years agoPost 184
AGRAV8

rrProfessor

Mosquito Coast......Houston Texas

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Cool

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05-16-2005 11:11 PM  13 years agoPost 185
HeliNick

rrApprentice

Bay Area, CA

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I almost finished assembling after completely disabling first my new Hawk Pro with a Toki engine-muffler combination. I found 2 missing set screws from 2 collars with multiple set screws. Also some bolts fastened on a metal surface did not have any Loctite. The Toki's engines shaft does not give you enough length to use all the suggested washers. I installed the washer/spacer between the engine bearing and clutch but I had to omit the washer with the top nut. I had to install the carb arm facing down because was interfering with the metal frame therefore the throttle servo ball is on the bottom too and the throttle is reversed on the radio. I am still working on the clearance issues I have with the aileron linkages hitting the pitch lever.

If you have any solutions on the above issues please let me know.

Nick

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05-17-2005 02:35 AM  13 years agoPost 186
BC Don

rrElite Veteran

Calgary, AB Canada

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Yup, can't use the top the washer.

Yup, you either have to bend the carb arm down and then out in ordre to clear or do as you did (and I did too), mount it upside down. But, now that I've done that and mounted the arm on my servo pointing down as well, the servo arm is rubbing against the canopy so I have to build a small balsa stand off to hold the Canopy out.

I had to use a plastic arm and cut it way down for my for / aft cyclic otherwise it hit my left / right cyclic servo.

I don't have the last clearance item you mentioned (that I know of).

Got Money? Send it to me, I'm a Heli Addict.

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05-17-2005 05:48 PM  13 years agoPost 187
HeliNick

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Bay Area, CA

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Good points Don. By the way, I mounted the throttle and pitch servos from the inside of the servo tray and I did not have any clearance problems.

I downloaded the Hawk Sport manual from Century and I found out that it has a lot more details on some items. The interesting thing is many of the linkage dimensions are way different between the Pro and Sport. I thought the Pro is a Sport with some upgrades.....


Nick

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05-17-2005 06:27 PM  13 years agoPost 188
BC Don

rrElite Veteran

Calgary, AB Canada

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Nick, thanks for reminding me. On the Hawk Sport they have the throttle and collective mounted from the inside but on the pro they are on the outside. When I got my rubbing I never even thought to put them back on the inside. I'll do that tonight so I don't have to build some kind of standoff.

Got Money? Send it to me, I'm a Heli Addict.

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05-22-2005 07:21 AM  13 years agoPost 189
HeliNick

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Bay Area, CA

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TOKI plug?
Does anyone knows what other plug can be used on the TOKI 40H?


Nick

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05-22-2005 09:40 AM  13 years agoPost 190
AGRAV8

rrProfessor

Mosquito Coast......Houston Texas

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OS8

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05-22-2005 11:01 PM  13 years agoPost 191
vladn

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NJ, USA

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Is Hawk Pro suitable as a low cost 3D trainer ?
Does it require any upgrades to have quick and reasonably precise cyclic response ?

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05-23-2005 02:39 AM  13 years agoPost 192
AGRAV8

rrProfessor

Mosquito Coast......Houston Texas

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Yep
an anti-rotation guide for sure.

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05-23-2005 04:30 PM  13 years agoPost 193
oldfart

rrProfessor

Vancouver, Canada

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vladn,

Yes, it sure is - right out of the box. See this threadstarted by a big JR Vigor fan. Up to getting the Hawk Pro he only flew the JR big block helis:

http://www.rotory.com/ubbthreads/sh...sb=5&o=&fpart=1

Phil

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05-23-2005 06:42 PM  13 years agoPost 194
HeliNick

rrApprentice

Bay Area, CA

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TOKI plug?
Thanks AGRAV8 for the info.

The original TOKI plug I blew because my glow plug starter amperage was too high so I adjusted the amperage to be just orange and not white!!!!

Then I put in an OS #8 and the engine started fine had a nice idle and run great with a lot of smoke as I am ½ a turn over the factory carb setting for the break in period (TOKI manual recommendation). The temp. infrared gun showed 235* F. This is my first nitro heli and I am not familiar with the temperature range for these engines. At the next run with the OS #8 the engine run fine for 2 minutes and I shut it shut it down for a break in cooling cycle. I took out the plug for inspection and the filament was badly distorted. From other nitro applications as far as I know that means that the engine is running hot or/and the plug is too hot for this application.

I use 30% Cool Power Heli fuel and I was wondering if it is too high nitro content? I wanted to run 15% but they were out (of course!). Any suggestions?

The last OS #8 blew during flight (oh no!!!) with almost empty tank ( I am getting a header tank) but it was hovering 2 inches from the ground and the rotopod did its job. I highly recommend it for beginners, training and new setups

Any suggestions/ recommendations?


Thanks again,

Nick

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05-23-2005 06:48 PM  13 years agoPost 195
SteveH

rrProfessor

Texas

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Nick,

When you are blowing plugs, that usually means you are running lean. 30% fuel will normally take an additional 1/2 turn on the mixture screw than 15% of a given fuel.

Additionally, don't know where you are taking the temperature on the engine, but 235 sounds a little hot to me, which would also support the theory of too lean.

The government cannot give you anything without first taking it from someone else.

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05-24-2005 06:11 PM  13 years agoPost 196
HeliNick

rrApprentice

Bay Area, CA

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Hi Steve,

I take the temp. measurements straight from the plug on the head with an ifrared gun. This is the 1st time I use 30% nitro. I will increase the needle another 1/2 a turn, thanks. I thought the mixture was good from the amount of smoke I was getting which was a LOT!!!!

By the way, what will be a good temperature for this engine?

Also, should I run OS A3 or A5 plugs instead of #8?

Thanks,

Nick

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05-24-2005 09:12 PM  13 years agoPost 197
NewHeli

rrKey Veteran

Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA

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Don't know about the A5, but the A3 I use in my planks, I think it is rated "hot" or something. Don't know anything about the Toki either.

NewHeli

Nathaniel Rice
Team YS Engines

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05-24-2005 09:44 PM  13 years agoPost 198
SteveH

rrProfessor

Texas

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Nick,

You are taking the temperature at a hot place. The only place hotter would be the exhaust port.

I would look for 180 to 200 degrees on the back of the cylinder, below the head.

The number 8 OS should be a good plug for your engine.

The government cannot give you anything without first taking it from someone else.

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05-24-2005 11:05 PM  13 years agoPost 199
Gearhead

rrMaster

Vt

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you can find OS plug's heat range in this link..

http://www.osengines.com./


Jim

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05-25-2005 10:53 PM  13 years agoPost 200
HeliNick

rrApprentice

Bay Area, CA

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Problem solved !!!!!!

Any guesses?

I turned the needle another half turn for reacher mixture and I got about 200 deg. F. At this point something else has to be wrong. Looking around the engine I found that there is a LOT of oil under the head near the cylinder join. Hmmm! I take my hex key and guess what .... the head bolts got loose. Just for a quick test I torqued the 4 hex bolds and I restarted it. Much less smoke and the temperature ..... 145 deg. F. After that short run I took of the engine/ fuel assembly and clean the bolts and threads and loctite them.

Thank you all for the info.

Nick

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