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Other › TRex problem - flybar control arm
12-09-2004 06:28 AM  13 years agoPost 1
11290

rrApprentice

Evansville, IN and Orlando, FL

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Stripped out the aluminum insert in the flybar control arm. Didn't even lean on it trying to tighten. Almost as if it was already bad. Who knows. Set screws were already in the arm.

Anyway to fix other than ordering a new one?? Currently it will not get tight enough on the flybar to work.

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12-09-2004 06:38 AM  13 years agoPost 2
marked23

rrKey Veteran

Lynnwood, WA

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I'm not sure what that part looks like... but maybe you could tap it out for a larger size screw... then get a larger size set screw. Done.

-Mark

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12-09-2004 06:57 AM  13 years agoPost 3
steph280

rrElite Veteran

Irvine, California

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I had the same problem. Just drop some CA into it.

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12-09-2004 06:59 AM  13 years agoPost 4
mdttb

rrApprentice

Anaheim, Calif USA

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I havent had that problem yet but I did replace the flybar with a bike spoke and used paddle blades and 3D alu holders from one of my extra shoguns.

Had a small mishap with the T-Rex.

Was heading to work stopped at a red light and the T-Rex flew forward along with my Shogun both hit the floorboard the oem flybar on the T-Rex bent. I was totaly shocked that the flybar bent so easy when I tried to bend it back. I thought great my shogun was going to be the same way. I was surprized the Shogun survived with no damage.

Anyway I agree tap for a bigger size set screw.

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12-09-2004 10:03 AM  13 years agoPost 5
cbr-dude

rrNovice

Christchurch, New Zealand

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Same
I had the same problem, only one one of them.... Looks like there might be some fault with them maybe. Which side was it on your one?

I have just ordered another kit, which will be here tomorrow that I am going to use for that spare part until another arrives.

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12-09-2004 10:54 AM  13 years agoPost 6
Peter65

rrKey Veteran

Roxby Downs, South Australia.

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Hmmm. I did it too

Laughing at yourself will lengthen your life. Laughing at me will shorten it...

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12-09-2004 01:46 PM  13 years agoPost 7
11290

rrApprentice

Evansville, IN and Orlando, FL

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AFTER FURTHER REVIEW, actually stripping out the plastic. The threads still exist in the aluminum but the setscrew does not get there when the flybar is in place. The only threads that hold it are the plastic ones.

I have had similar problems with the Raptor helis but got the upgrade that adds the "hoop" type arms similar to the Hirobo shuttle. Those work great on the Rappy.

Maybe someone with some machining talent needs to make a different type arm as an upgrade. Are you listening Fung???

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12-09-2004 05:35 PM  13 years agoPost 8
Flipflyer

rrNovice

Riverside, California

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Go to your friendly hobby shop and look for a standard set screw (not metric) that is slightly larger than the stock metric one. That one will fit and thread into the stripped hole created by the stock one. I had the same thing happened on mine and was able to fix it with the standard screw.

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12-10-2004 01:11 AM  13 years agoPost 9
rotaryguy

rrApprentice

Florida

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just drill and tap the other side
I did the same thing on both sides, just drill and tap the other side, worked great for me still holding.

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12-10-2004 03:19 AM  13 years agoPost 10
Lancelot

rrNovice

Lincoln, Nebraska

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That's what I did too, while I was waiting for the replacement parts to arrive.
Seems a pretty common problem.

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12-29-2004 07:18 PM  13 years agoPost 11
rcisfunrem

rrNovice

Erie, PA

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I just had the same problem with mine, barley tightened the screw.
Has anyone tried to grind a flat spot on the flybar for the set screw to sit against?
RCISFUNREM

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12-29-2004 07:23 PM  13 years agoPost 12
PicoFlyer

rrApprentice

Littleton, CO

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Same problem with mine. What I did was simply grind a small flat spot on the flybar and also ground the end of the set screw slightly to allow the threads to seat in the aluminum. Worked great, very tight now.

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12-29-2004 07:29 PM  13 years agoPost 13
rcisfunrem

rrNovice

Erie, PA

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Thanks PicoFlyer for confirming the grinding, I'm going for the dremel right now!

RCISFUNREM

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12-29-2004 07:34 PM  13 years agoPost 14
PicoFlyer

rrApprentice

Littleton, CO

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No problem RCISFUNREM. I slowly ground just enough for it to seat well. I didn't want to grind more than necassary to weaken the flybar. Actually grinding the set screw made a big difference. I think combined we should not have any more problems.

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12-29-2004 07:35 PM  13 years agoPost 15
bugsb

rrVeteran

rothwell//northants UK

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as i was reading the posts here
i had a look at mine
and the same thing
so i made a mark on the flybar made a flat with a small file also took the file to the grub screw just to flatten it a bit
refitted the arms and a little ca
works a treat also lets the grub screw get a better bite
ron

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12-29-2004 08:09 PM  13 years agoPost 16
rcisfunrem

rrNovice

Erie, PA

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Here is a photo of what I did, it works like a champ, this should hold things now!

RCISFUNREM

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12-29-2004 10:46 PM  13 years agoPost 17
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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Same thing here. Waiting for a set of replacements to arrive. The threads in the aluminum are gone. The aluminum insert must be very soft material. One arm only, the other is fine.

I'd drill and tap, but don't have ready access to metric taps here.

Dave

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01-02-2005 08:45 AM  13 years agoPost 18
derekandjennys

rrApprentice

Cedar Rapids, IA

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I have some metric taps that came with the tools as a combo with my first heli. The Concept 60. They are probably at least 10 years old by Dubro but I am almost positive they still have them available. They have been very handy quite often.

Derek

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01-02-2005 09:30 PM  13 years agoPost 19
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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I had a problem, found a 3mm tap in my box o'taps and fixed the bad one. Meanwhile, I had ordered a set of replacements.

It appears that the Align manufacturing folk are using the wrong kind of tap to thread the hole. A standard tap that starts out with a tapered end that eventually works its way up to the ful thread appears to be what they are using. Unfortunately, when you use one of these taps on the flybar collar, the tap cannot go deep enough to fully cut threads in the collar, as the tip of the tap runs into the opposite wall of the bore for the flybar, before the full thread cutting portion of the tap has done its job.

Take a new flybar control arm and simply try to turn the set screw into it, without having the flybar in place. The set screw is bound up just about the time the point protrudes through collar, as the threads in that region are not properly cut.

There are two solutions.

First, the Align folk should be using a bottoming tap -- one that allows you to cut full threads up to the end of the tap.

The other solution would be for them (or us) to drill the pilot hole for the tap clear through the collar. Doing so allows a standard tap to go further into the collar, and into the hole on the opposite side of the bore for the flybar. This allows the full thread cutting part of a standard tap to do what it needs to do all the way through the pilot hole.

Dave

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01-02-2005 09:51 PM  13 years agoPost 20
derekandjennys

rrApprentice

Cedar Rapids, IA

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makes sense. I suppose grinding the set screw would increase risk of stripping it as you would turn it in further. I did not have a problem but I remember being extra careful as it all seemed a little fragile.

Hey, had an idea last night. Has anyone tried a CARBON FLYBAR? I have some 2mm pieces cut off of the camera ships tail control rods. The only way I can think of installing is drilling out paddles slightly to 2mm and glue one on and install then set perfectly the other paddle and secure. Any ideas? Have not weighed fly bar yet as it is installed but remember if feeling quite heavy.

The carbon one I cut weighs 1 gram!!!

Derek

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