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HomeAircraftHelicopterThunder TigerOther › Which Carbon Blades for Raptor 50 and Why?
12-07-2004 02:36 PM  13 years agoPost 21
blade3d

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New Jersey USA

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Thanks for the info, I think I might try them,, I was looking to try some 700 on my R60 which have a webra 75 that have a lot of power Im presently running 680, so I'll change the boom and get some 700
thanks

Blade3d
Rupert

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HomeAircraftHelicopterThunder TigerOther › Which Carbon Blades for Raptor 50 and Why?
12-07-2004 07:26 PM  13 years ago •• Post 22 ••
Scooby_Don't

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Dunipace, Stirlingshire, Scotland

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G.Man,
where are you buying the MAH's for £34?
Ta.

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12-07-2004 07:29 PM  13 years agoPost 23
raptorheli2

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rip off britain and no changing it

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weston uk sell the MAH for that price.

does anyone know who sells the rotortechs in the uk? i have them for the pmax and they are superb. would like them for the rappy 50.

cheers


www.waterfoothelis.com

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12-07-2004 09:44 PM  13 years agoPost 24
Loc-Nar

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The Basin

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Best R50 3-D blades...
The 600MM wood blades. Why? They work just as well as the blingers and cost $23. If you are going to do "mad 3D" in "the far future" why are you interested in anything but wood blades, especially now when you are not doing 3D? Those wood blades are great for any kind of 3d stuff and autos anyway. I am not sure how someone could even tell the difference between wood blades and FG's and Carbons on the 30-50 toy size helis.

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12-07-2004 10:57 PM  13 years agoPost 25
blade3d

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New Jersey USA

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OOOOOOO big difference my friend big difference,, try it and you will see less drag for FB and CB.and less flex.

Blade3d
Rupert

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12-07-2004 11:11 PM  13 years agoPost 26
Loc-Nar

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The Basin

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..
Been there, no difference... If there is I can't tell. I am using v paddles and cx dampers, high headspeed and the blades tight. Furious 3D, well, As good as I can get it, which isn't saying much . Flex where? Are there not tons of force pulling the blades straight at those speeds? What can I do to witness this flex? I mean I am tic-tocing in every direction, backflipping, piroflipping, etc...?

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12-07-2004 11:30 PM  13 years agoPost 27
Loc-Nar

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The Basin

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...
What I am saying is... What can I do to flex or break the blades in flight? I have been flying this thing for years and I can't seen to get them to fail. If it is some trick I cannot do I will give it to Rappytappy and let him bust the blades, but I have a feeling that is is impossible, if they are assembled correctly and shrunk before flight. As far as drag.. it's not like it is bare wood or something. I could understand if the blade covering is loose and you hear "that funny blade covering noise", but with them shrunk good and tight the surface is pretty much just like the surface of a composite blade.

So:
Drag? where is it coming from, if it is there what is it doing? Slowing the headspeed? I don't think I could even have a higher headspeed. If I run it any higher the teeth are going to fly off the main gear.

Flex: What can I do to flex these things, or outright break them in flight without a boomstrike (which I can't see happening w/ the cx dampers anyway).

If there is a difference I can't see it, and is it worth it for the extra $50 or so on a .50?!?

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12-08-2004 03:39 AM  13 years agoPost 28
Spitfire_mk5

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Canada

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Yes its worth it: a local guy here was running woodies on a venture 50 after a month the warp in them was, well, scary (and all it was, was loops and rolls)!

Plus even just hovering you can notice a good pair of CF blades

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12-08-2004 04:44 AM  13 years agoPost 29
Loc-Nar

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The Basin

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>>>after a month the warp in them was, well,

Come on, you have to admit that is just non-typical. I mean I have been wringing out that raptor 50 for a couple of years and the blades never came apart or warped. I have seen hundreds (if not more) sets of woodies come through the basin and they all end up failing the same way : The ground gets in the way of the heli. With all the .50's and .30's out there flying wood blades can you really believe this kind of problem is common? I have had blades last months and some last..well..not as long but there was never a failure because of the blades. A couple of ther things failed, and I have had a boomstrike (carbons) and another boomstrike (FG's) but that was the a: R90, my bad, loose blades and loading the head, and b: R:50 stupid v1 damper.

Sure , a wood blade can fail, I am not saying it never happened. Just imagine the volume of wood blades on the small helis per failure. I have heard of the root pulling out but the discussion ends with "no, I did not have glue on the ends".

>>>Plus even just hovering you can notice a good pair of CF blades

Now you have to be kidding me. What the hell is anyone hovering their heli for unless they are a: learning or b: inverted. I will agree, the carbos hold up better for scraping the pavement, but hovering?!? Please...

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12-08-2004 07:37 AM  13 years agoPost 30
blade3d

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New Jersey USA

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What about the shrink wrap over the blades, do you reshrink them because they do stretch out and with all the pull on them there is no way they can be as smooth as FB or CF no way,, you can't really be serious about this your pulling our chain,,right.

Blade3d
Rupert

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12-08-2004 12:49 PM  13 years agoPost 31
nojohnny101

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10 miles north of Cincy, OHIO

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sry submitted twice!

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12-08-2004 12:51 PM  13 years agoPost 32
nojohnny101

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10 miles north of Cincy, OHIO

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hey
i kind of agree with lco-nar ....did u guys see that vegas funfly 2003 i think it was...with Alan Jr. flying stock raptor 30v2 with STOCK WOODIES
it can be done!
hey up LOC-NAR.....you shrink the wrap on your woodies with heat when u get them....i've never heard of this being done?

Let me know

Thanks
~Will~

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12-08-2004 02:24 PM  13 years agoPost 33
da_man

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Central NC

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I started flying wooden blades again only because I got a good deal on them. They to me fly fine. For doing aerobatics they are fine.. With wooden blades I can do flips , inverted foward flight, rolling circles , deathspirals and more. I even tried a choas, but it almost resulted in a crash. I haven't had a bad experiance with wood blades yet. To me getting a gv1 helps more than carbon blades.

The fiberglass blades or carbons are more efficiant because they maintain their shape and have a smoother surface. The efficiancy is slightly noticable to me. They are very noticable during autorotations because mainly because they are usually heavier than wood blades.

I find the difference in price to be good enough to still use wood blades. If carbons cost the same price then I would definatly use them. I have the occasional crash, but I feel I can fly harder because I know if I do put it in it will cost me 50 dollars cheaper to do so.

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12-08-2004 02:41 PM  13 years agoPost 34
blade3d

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New Jersey USA

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Don't get me wrong I never said wood will not do all,, I was mearly saying that FB, CF are smoother and more precise and efficient.

The shrink wrap will stretch because of the pull on them so from time to time you might want to put the heat gun to it .

Blde3d
Rupert

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12-08-2004 03:18 PM  13 years agoPost 35
CrashExpert

rrApprentice

Scotland

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with Alan Jr. flying stock raptor 30v2 with STOCK WOODIES
This is a silly quote. He could fly just about anything great. He is a top pilot so obviously he can make a stock heli fly fantastic.

As someone who is fairly new to the hobby I found a big difference when I switched to carbon blades, even the set of carbons I have which I am not impressed with, fly better than the stock wood blades.

However each to their own, I will continue to fly carbon blades as the woodies in my opinion are no where near as efficent as carbon.

And yes I could and did fly with woodies (even mild 3D) but carbon makes all the difference.



Crash
601 Crew Member
Your about to be Cloned!!!!

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12-08-2004 06:48 PM  13 years agoPost 36
nojohnny101

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10 miles north of Cincy, OHIO

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hey
i know...that is my point....if your truely really good....to a certain point it doesn't matter what equipment you have...if your really good you can fly with any blades....unless their totally out of wack...
that's how i see it


Let me know

Thanks
~Will~

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12-08-2004 06:56 PM  13 years agoPost 37
concept1

rrKey Veteran

Youngstown, OH

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you can use anything and get by with anything, but their is real benifit for quality products. I have use some real nice woodies and some real crappy woodies. same with carbon blades, I have used some carbons that were not as good as some nice woodies. but Yes you can notice the difference inhow they fly, generally you will have to change engine settings and curves when you change blades, but their is nothing wrong with a good set of woodies.

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12-08-2004 08:27 PM  13 years agoPost 38
nojohnny101

rrElite Veteran

10 miles north of Cincy, OHIO

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hey
ok i'll agree with that concept....ummmm yea your right a heli does fly better with carbon but can is definitly flyable with woodies...

Thanks
~Will~

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12-09-2004 12:21 AM  13 years agoPost 39
Lozzyho

rrApprentice

Tropical Ayrshire, Scotland

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CrashExpert

Go with the Black NHP blades - the stickers they send with them go really well with my girly pink Raptor decals that you like so much!

Loz


If your wings are travelling faster than your fuselage, you're in a helicopter, therefore unsafe

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12-09-2004 10:52 AM  13 years agoPost 40
CrashExpert

rrApprentice

Scotland

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Found a set of NHP's that are real nice only the tip of blade and root are black rest are all white, so these will be tried next. Thanks to G.MAN and raptorheli2 I will be purchasing a rather cheap set of SAB's.



Crash
601 Crew Member
Your about to be Cloned!!!!

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