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HomeAircraftHelicopterThunder TigerOther › R60 Auto std hub
11-07-2004 05:14 AM  13 years agoPost 1
Peter65

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Roxby Downs, South Australia.

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Hmmm

For the last few weeks while practicing autos I was noticing a big slow down in head speed while coming down. Today I found out why. My auto hub had siezed. Somehow the stainless steel collar had frozen to the bronze bushings?

I managed to free the two, re lubed and all seems well again. I never landed any of these practice autos because I knew head speed was too far down Lucky I haven't had the need to do a forced one.

In future first sign of anything a miss, investigate.

Laughing at yourself will lengthen your life. Laughing at me will shorten it...

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11-07-2004 06:41 AM  13 years agoPost 2
Tek

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Yukon, OK USA

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I tend to just lube everything with sewing machine oil. Work great to prevent problems later on any heli.

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11-07-2004 11:21 AM  13 years agoPost 3
Skillmaster

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LA cali

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same here i use the same oil it works great i lube every bearing and sliding part

1992 3000gt vr4

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11-07-2004 02:10 PM  13 years agoPost 4
Jeff Swartz

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Ohio

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probably going to do it again.

when you need to get a new one, clean real well with brake (not break) fluid or simular, then use atf (automatic transmission fluid) to lube real well. I have had good luck with my hubs not locking up since I began to do this method.

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11-07-2004 04:04 PM  13 years agoPost 5
AMainMaker

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Nappanee,IN

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I use the same method with mine and haven't ever had a issue.
Jason

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11-07-2004 05:20 PM  13 years agoPost 6
Buzzin Brian

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College Station, Texas

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I know I will get the crap flamed out of me for saying this, but I think the part in gerenal is a POS. I cleaned mine as has been suggested, and used atf, and it is locked right now. I think a new design is in order. I would be very happy to see a sprague bearing in this area, much like the one that MA and now Century uses. The machine itself is very nice, and a solid design IMPO. But I think this little problem needs to be eliminated once and for all. But that is me. All it is going to take is someone at TT getting of their butt and doing it.

Build it, fly it, crash it. Repeat as often as needed.

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11-07-2004 07:08 PM  13 years agoPost 7
daren

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Hampshire Sponsored by Quick UK

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Been running a Raptor 60 sized ship fitted with os91 for about 2 years now and have gone through endless auto hubs, This year i was thinking about fitting the plastic upgrade hub but due to not being in the UK at the time i managed to get my hands on a standard Raptor 90 hub, I cleaned and oiled it using triflow and have not had a single lock up since.

Daren
Using the ground to reverse engineer

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11-07-2004 11:29 PM  13 years agoPost 8
Peter65

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Roxby Downs, South Australia.

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Well I cleaned and oiled and it froze again
I have tried to find the upgrade one on Helikraft but the only one I could find was the stock one plus the R90 upgrade which does not seem so different.
This hub has lasted almost 8 months. I guess it did ok?

Laughing at yourself will lengthen your life. Laughing at me will shorten it...

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11-08-2004 12:45 PM  13 years agoPost 9
Drunk Monk

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Preston, UK

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Mines stuck twice so far in the past few months and i've had to strip it down to sort it out. It's a real pain. I think mines only had a few gallons through it so far.


Stephen

I only open my mouth to change feet.....

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11-08-2004 08:09 PM  13 years agoPost 10
AMainMaker

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Nappanee,IN

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MIne is the 90 one but I do have a hardened main shaft which might make a difference on the smoothness of the surface the needle bearings are riding on. I have heard some bad stuff about the upgrade one with the bearing stuck in a plastic casing. I would suggest getting the 90 one with the retainer ring and a hardened main shaft. It seems to work for me hopfully it will do the same for you.
Jason

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11-08-2004 08:34 PM  13 years agoPost 11
Joe Ubaldo

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Grand Rapids, MI USA

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My experience has been that once the auto hub locks up, it's shot. No amount of cleaning and relubing will fix it. All of my hub failures had the same failure point. See the picture below.

If the hub is less than a year old, contact Ace (Jeff Fassbinder) and he'll get you a new one... especially if your failure looks like mine.

Jeff specifically told me NOT to use the auto hub upgrade that locks directly on the hardened main shaft. He said that part is no longer sold in the US because it is a faulty design that fails.

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11-08-2004 09:01 PM  13 years agoPost 12
Notarheli

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Phoenix, AZ

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Has anybody ever modified the setup to use a sprag?

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11-08-2004 10:05 PM  13 years agoPost 13
Peter65

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Roxby Downs, South Australia.

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I stripped and oiled the bearing again last night. It was loose and freely rotating until the first flight then it felt real notchy. Not like it had chips or anything but like it was catching on each individual bearing.

I am thinking that it may be the insert is getting deformed when I do up the jesus bolt at the bottom. I'll try backing off the tension a 1/4 turn tonight and see how it goes.

Is the any benefit to getting the R90 bearing over the R60 one? The only difference I can see is the R90 has a thicker base.

As far as I can see it has not broken as your has in the photo. But I will have a better look next time I strip it down.

Laughing at yourself will lengthen your life. Laughing at me will shorten it...

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11-08-2004 10:35 PM  13 years agoPost 14
AMainMaker

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Nappanee,IN

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From my experience if the insert gets deformed it is extremely hard to remove form the main shaft and it pretty much is permanently deformed and won't retunr to its original form.
Jason

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11-08-2004 10:48 PM  13 years agoPost 15
Peter65

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Roxby Downs, South Australia.

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The insert slides over the shaft with ease but I may have just a little too much tension on the bolt. It would only take a bees dick to cause it to be enough out of shape to jam?

It does seem strange though how after rebuild it's free till the first flight then goes off again

I did see the thread about the upgrade hub being a bad design but at the end of that thread it was found to be the builders error I belive?

I guess though my R60 is now 8 months old and things will need replacing. I have been lucky till now that I have had no major mechanical failures.. Touch wood

Laughing at yourself will lengthen your life. Laughing at me will shorten it...

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11-09-2004 12:19 AM  13 years agoPost 16
Buzzin Brian

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College Station, Texas

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No it was not builders error. That product is no longer being produced due to the deffect. I was the one that had the failure, and rest assured, I am not a begginer builder. I did find out later that some were greasing the outside of the bearing to help avoid failure. But I built it to spec as per the instructions, and it failed catestrophicly. I did not know of the "home" fix at the time. I actually think it was a decent design if the housing would have been made out of aluminum. But it is plastic. Which is what failed. If it were aluminum I would give it another shot. But I will not go there again with a plastic one, thats for sure! I actually think I am going to spring for one of the euro ones with a sprague bearing in it, and be done with it. But that is me.

Build it, fly it, crash it. Repeat as often as needed.

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11-09-2004 12:22 AM  13 years agoPost 17
Peter65

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Roxby Downs, South Australia.

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Sorry Brian. It was a while back and a long thread. It has since been discontinued.

Laughing at yourself will lengthen your life. Laughing at me will shorten it...

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11-09-2004 12:43 AM  13 years agoPost 18
steve9534

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yakima, wa.

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Raptor auto hubs
One of the reasons that people have multiple failures is that they replace only the one way bearing and not the sleeve it rides on. Mine started locking after many flights and I bought a new auto bearing, only to have it lock up on the second flight. The problem was the sleeve had worn to the point that the needles could rotate over center, and once I replaced the sleeve and bearing, all was well again. Another thing that can destroy the bearing is overtorqueing the cross bolt at the bottom of the unit. This bolt just acts as a dowel pin and doesn't need to be very tight. Overtightening will distort the sleeve and cause a failure. However, none of this fixes one of the Raptors weak links in that the T/R drive has lots of drag, and consequently it's not the best autoing heli ever made. I resolved the problem for good by modifying an auto hub from a Tsurugi to fit. The hub itself is made of metal with a different style of one way bearing and 2 ball bearings. It's nearly a bolt on project - I had to drill and tap a couple of holes in the hub to bolt on the Raptor main gear, then cut the sleeve to the length of the red gear with a Dremel and used a plastic bushing from the hardware to keep it from riding up and hitting the frame. I've had no more problems, and the drive train is a lot smoother now. Hope this helps. steve.

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11-09-2004 12:45 AM  13 years agoPost 19
Buzzin Brian

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College Station, Texas

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I closed it because it got a little nasty. I have since have decided not to harp on it. I only responded to what you said to simply clarify what happened. Nothing more. Here is a look at the failed part. Basicly the bearing spun inside the plastic housing.

Build it, fly it, crash it. Repeat as often as needed.

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11-09-2004 01:15 AM  13 years agoPost 20
RotorHead486

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England

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I've noticed in UK kits that they are coming with a part extra, this part is the (PV0351) One Way Clutch Reinforcing Ring.

Duno if this is anything to do with this problem, are they failing with this part on or is this the cure?? Duno

Cheers!
Rotorhead486

One Reason For Crashing'Rogue Servo Bent on World Domination'!!
FLP Flight Team

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