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11-03-2004 03:11 PM  13 years agoPost 1
JBolt

rrNovice

Mountain View, CA

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Hello all. I've decided to pick up a Raven, hopefully this weekend. I have been flying Concepts forever (can't seem to wear them out) and think it's time for a change. I'm looking for any building tips or things to watch out for. Power will be an OS50 sx-h, 401/9253, JR4131s

Thanks,

J

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11-03-2004 04:51 PM  13 years agoPost 2
SteveH

rrProfessor

Texas

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J,

You're gonna love the Raven. I used to fly Concepts also and the flight performance improvement and the quality difference is unbelievable.

The book is quite good that comes with the Raven, so you won't have any trouble. Pay special attention to the building "hints" during construction such as locktiteing the bearings to the shafts, etc. All of the hints will help build a very long lasting heli.

The government cannot give you anything without first taking it from someone else.

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11-03-2004 09:16 PM  13 years agoPost 3
Wisdom-Seeker

rrVeteran

Danville, CA

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Unless the manual has changed, there's two corrections I would make:

1. The instructions never tell you to put the bolt into the upper body about an inch under the bar for the canopy.

2. The measurements listed for the tail pitch pushrod are completely wrong. If you used the measurements, the pushrod would go all of the way to the forward servo tray. The tail pitch servo is just under the tail boom clamp.

--

Wisdom-Seeker
Protest letter to insurance co.: What do you mean "Act of God"?

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11-04-2004 12:26 AM  13 years agoPost 4
JBolt

rrNovice

Mountain View, CA

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Hey Steve, thanks for the reply. General building is not an issue. I was just wondering if there were any quirks or bugs with the raven or century in general that need special attention. No issues with any of the plastic molded parts, parts fit things like that.

J

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11-04-2004 01:13 AM  13 years agoPost 5
Buzzin Brian

rrProfessor

College Station, Texas

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Parts quality and fit were never an issue when I was flying Hawks way back when. The only issue I had was the counter gear shaft in my ARF Hawk 30 SE was not locktited to the bearings. So the shaft was turning in the bearings, which destroyed the shaft over time. That and I never cared for the wire drive. But you will not have that issue at all with the Raven 50 (Shaft drive), so that is a non issue. I have been looking at one of these myself. But am undecided on it. I am looking for REAL good detailed pictures of a brand new one. Then I will decide if I think I want one. So far the PICS have eluded me.

Build it, fly it, crash it. Repeat as often as needed.

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11-04-2004 01:45 AM  13 years agoPost 6
Gearhead

rrMaster

Vt

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JBolt,,, it's great to hear that your buying a Raven I'm very sure you'll like it,,,

let me just mention a few things that may help,,,

make sure you screw the linkage balls in the middle holes on the tail blade grips, the older tail blade grips did not have a middle hole so I don't know if Century has updated the manual for this, so just keep it in mind that you may "may" have to adjust the tail linkage on your first flight,,,

when you go to mount the motor mount in the frame (with motor)~make sure you push the mount "up" pretty-much as far as it can go so the clutch-bell gear is completely on the counter gear, and try to push the mount back so the 2 gears mesh tight,,, these new OS 50 motors are quite powerful, and if you get full gear contact and a good tight gear mesh these 2 gears should last at the very least a couple years,,, (I don't think it will~but don't let the top of the counter gear rub on the clutch bell, if it does loosen the motor mount and raise it up),,,

don't use to much blue locktite on any set screws that holds parts like the main shaft uper collar, to much locktite will make it hard to remove the collars/parts, only put locktite on the setscrew, if you put locktite in the threads on the parts the setscrew will just push the locktite in-on the shaft between the part and shaft, again this will make it hard to remove the part later-on, all this goes for the setscrews for the flybar control are as well,,,

use a tiny bit of red locktite on the screws for the wash-out arm bearings and bellmixer bearings, this will glue the screw to the inside of the bearing and reduce play, do NOT over tighten these screws because the bearing could get notchy, don't worry these bearing will last for years if setup right, mine are 3 years old and have no sign of wear or play,,, just make sure you don't get locktite in the bearings,,,

I use the rear rudder servo mount, this one mounts to the back side of the frame using the same screws that clamp the boom, it mounts on the left side and the rudder's servo is put on from the right, I like this mount because it is a lighter mount than the type that clamps to the boom,,,

if you ever get a glitch, first look at the 4 screws that mount the boom supports,,,


good luck, I feel your getting the best 3Ding plastic heli there is, let us know how you like it and ask what you need !!

Jim

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11-04-2004 01:48 AM  13 years agoPost 7
Gearhead

rrMaster

Vt

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ooopss,,, B Brian is right, you need to use red locktite on the top bearing on the counter shaft.


Jim

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11-05-2004 01:20 AM  13 years agoPost 8
jackheli

rrProfessor

Vancouver - Canada

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Since you are at the start of the build, consider substituting the angel screws with stronger ones.

I had the lower screw of my raven sheared off two weeks ago during flight and was lucky to manage to auto down, with only a couple of teeth lost on the main gear.

What I did as a suggestion from a friend was to cut longer screws down to size, which allows for the solid part of the screw (without threads) to take all the stress. Just keep enough thread at the end in order to have a good lock on the nut. You will maybe need to add a couple of washers to either side of the screw.

Also, consider extending the lower servo tray platform in order to move the battery upfront as much as possible.

Jack

It's easy to find an excuse to do wrong. Hard is not to find an excuse to do right.

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11-05-2004 05:46 AM  13 years agoPost 9
Gearhead

rrMaster

Vt

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Jack,,, do you mean the screw under the main gear that holds the hub on the main shaft,,, I had 2 brake off, so I posted, and I was told not to tighten them so much, LOL, well I have not had that problem in over a year.


Jim

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11-05-2004 07:57 AM  13 years agoPost 10
JBolt

rrNovice

Mountain View, CA

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Hey guys thanks for the pointers. I picked up the kit today on my way home from work and......well....er......ah....it's 2/3s completed.

I have to say I'm pleasently suprised at the quality of the kit. So far all the bits and pieces are there and it all fits together very nicely. The only thing I've run into so far is the cooling shroud has to be trimmed by the engine exhaust.

I was digging through my box of odd heli parts I've collected over the years and found a metal cooling fan, clutch and bell for a Hawk so you know where the fan is

With any luck I should have it together tomorrow and ready to fly by Sunday.

Jay

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11-05-2004 05:42 PM  13 years agoPost 11
jackheli

rrProfessor

Vancouver - Canada

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Wasp,
do you mean the screw under the main gear that holds the hub on the main shaft
Yes, that's the one. With the solid screw and some washers to shim it, it seems I will not need to test my panic autos in the short term....

One thing is to do planned autos, the other is to see if you react accordingly when you hear a loud bang and automatic engine rev-up, which you know is coming from your heli but you don';t know why!

It's easy to find an excuse to do wrong. Hard is not to find an excuse to do right.

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