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Century Radikal E640 - Swift 16 NX
› Upgrade Hummingbird to lithium
11-02-2004 02:55 PM  13 years agoPost 1
docnascar

rrVeteran

Maryland, USA

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Besides the possibility of the tail motor burning out, will my stock electronics handle lithium?

Century mixer/gyro
Century 6 ch rcvr
Century Hi Perf 370
Stock tail motor

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11-02-2004 02:58 PM  13 years agoPost 2
Saint728

rrProfessor

Honolulu, Hawaii

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Should be fine if you use a 7.4V LiPo. Anything bigger will kill your tial motor and maybe your mixer as well.

Take Care,
Cheers, Patrick

Check the hotties in my Gallery
http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/gallery/9019/?all=photo

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11-02-2004 03:23 PM  13 years agoPost 3
docnascar

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Maryland, USA

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What do I need for 11.1V?

I want longer run times but I don't want to go backwards from 8.4V.

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11-02-2004 03:41 PM  13 years agoPost 4
rob10000

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Western Massachusettes

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I can't get my HB Elite FP off the ground with 2S packs!

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11-02-2004 03:46 PM  13 years agoPost 5
Saint728

rrProfessor

Honolulu, Hawaii

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To be able to use an 11.1V LiPo, you will have to go with separate ESC's one for main motor and one for tail motor, a DD tail motor with 3030 or 3020 prop and a separate gyro of your choice. I would also get a heat sink for both motors and a head stiffener to keep the blades from bowing.

Take Care,
Cheers, Patrick

Check the hotties in my Gallery
http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/gallery/9019/?all=photo

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11-02-2004 03:48 PM  13 years agoPost 6
Saint728

rrProfessor

Honolulu, Hawaii

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I can't get my HB Elite FP off the ground with 2S packs!
How much does yours weight? If it weights too much you won't have enough power to get it off the ground.

Take Care,
Cheers, Patrick

Check the hotties in my Gallery
http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/gallery/9019/?all=photo

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11-02-2004 03:51 PM  13 years agoPost 7
rob10000

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Western Massachusettes

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My HB FP Elite weighs 237G without the battery

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11-02-2004 03:54 PM  13 years agoPost 8
Saint728

rrProfessor

Honolulu, Hawaii

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Well what's the weight with battery? You can't fly it without a battery.

Take Care,
Cheers, Patrick

Check the hotties in my Gallery
http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/gallery/9019/?all=photo

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11-02-2004 04:34 PM  13 years agoPost 9
pigs dont fly

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City, State - Country

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I have almost the same setup except for separate century gyro and Hummingboard, I run 3s 1500mah for about 7 months now, the tail needs swapping to GWS IPS motor I used IPS-1DXC with 3020prop. The Hummingboard needed a separate BEC as its own BEC wasnt man enough for the job (I used another old ESC wired into the main powersupply for the BEC supply) However you may be ok as the combined Gyro/Hummingboards are supposed to have a better BEC than the standard boards.
Rgds
E

Warning...This hobby is very addictive and may damage your wealth

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11-02-2004 05:57 PM  13 years agoPost 10
docnascar

rrVeteran

Maryland, USA

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I'm very new to RC electronics. Sorry about all of the questions.

Sounds expensive if I have to replace everything and not just get a new battery.

So how do I hookup separate ESC's?

What is the BEC (battery eliminator circuit) for?

What can I keep and what do I need new?

How does the mixer get incorporated?

Do I need a new rcvr to handle the higher voltage?

I guess I'm looking for a block diagram description, for example:

Ch1 to this
ch2 to that
ch3 to esc 1, esc 1 to main motor
ch4 to esc 2, esc 2 to tail motor
ch5 next to ....
ch6 upside down and around....... (lol)

hopefully this make sense....

Thanks for teaching me.

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11-03-2004 03:00 AM  13 years agoPost 11
Saint728

rrProfessor

Honolulu, Hawaii

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Go to this link and it will tell you how to change to separates. It also tells you how to put everything together. It also tells you what you have to buy.
http://www.helihobby.com/html/separate_electronics.html

Take Care,
Cheers, Patrick

Check the hotties in my Gallery
http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/gallery/9019/?all=photo

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11-03-2004 12:23 PM  13 years agoPost 12
docnascar

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Maryland, USA

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That's a great link. Thanks.

I was looking at Century's website and if you scroll down the page to "Li-Ion Battery-For Hummingbird," you'll see that they say you only need to upgrade to the HP370 with heat sink. Since that's coming from the vender does that mean the century mixer/gyro board will be ok?
http://www.centuryheli.com/newitems/index.html

The links below from heli-world (the actual link came from Century's web page) show the same thing.

CNE057 11.1v 700mah
http://www.heli-world.com/Merchant2...uct_Code=CNE057
CNE058 11.1v 1400mah
http://www.heli-world.com/Merchant2...egory_Code=Batt

I want to save money if possible here, but I don't want to destroy my existing electronics. Going seperates will definetely boost performance but I'm just looking for run-time at the moment. The helicopter is fast enough.

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11-03-2004 12:53 PM  13 years agoPost 13
Saint728

rrProfessor

Honolulu, Hawaii

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The problem with Li-Ion batteries they are a lot heavier. You can buy a LiPO with the same amount of mAh, but at half the weight. I wouldn't use a 11.1V battery with the stock ESC/mixer or the tail motor. I don't think they can handle that much voltage?

I would just buy a GWS ICS50 and 100 ESC for $37.00 and get a cheap used GWS PG-03 gyro for $20.00 and a 11.1V 1020 mAh LiPo battery for $29.99. For a little under $100.00 you can get your Hummingbird LiPo set up and flying well.

Take Care,
Cheers, Patrick

Check the hotties in my Gallery
http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/gallery/9019/?all=photo

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11-03-2004 03:09 PM  13 years agoPost 14
pigs dont fly

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City, State - Country

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Hi there

Like I said before, the Hummingboard works fine with 11.1v, its just the BEC that has probs (BEC powers the radio gear in the heli and replaces the radio battery) Its BEC still works and you may have better results than me as you have the combined unit, but with 11.1 but I found the Hummingboards BECs locked up and shutdown easily under loading (ie with lots of servo movements) when testing. The tail burns up on 11.1v, either step the voltage down using diodes or swap out to a DD tail..
The only thing you have to be aware of is that if either of your motors breakdown and stop turning when running 11.1v..do not try and run the heli using the Hummingboard to power them..the Hummingboard will burn up, in flames too (one of mine did)!
As you have a 6ch RX you will easily be able to power the radio from another source, if required, (I used a MS-055 ESC @ £20). Heli wired as normal except for the following: Remove/disconnect the 'red' wire from both the gyro connection and the radio connection of the Hummingboard radio gear plugs. Splice the second esc into the main power wires, connect the second ESC Rx connector into the Rx on ch6, and chop off and insulate the motor wires from the second ESC. To see roughly how I did mine see my gallery.
Hope this helps and makes sense
Rgds
E

Warning...This hobby is very addictive and may damage your wealth

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11-03-2004 04:57 PM  13 years agoPost 15
docnascar

rrVeteran

Maryland, USA

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Thanks for all the great info. I will use this stuff when I go brushless.

Talking about diodes on the tail made me think, why can't I just put them inline with the battery?

I can get 30 amp diodes and put two in line with each other. This will knock the supply down to 9.7V. Viola, EVERYTHING, is safe and I will get longer runtimes.

Remember, my adjective here is just longer runtimes and minimized cost.

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11-04-2004 01:42 AM  13 years agoPost 16
docnascar

rrVeteran

Maryland, USA

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No-one mentioned this to me but I just read it. How do you know when the lithium is done and you should stop flying. I'm seeing that you shouldn't wait for loss of power in the bird. Since I'll be using stock electronics that won't have cutoffs, maybe I can use my timer in my transmitter? What time should I set it for?

I could do some test runs and measure the voltage with my voltmeter. What is the safe voltage (per cell) for lithium? Is it different for Ion or Pol?

Thanks again folks!

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11-04-2004 11:45 AM  13 years agoPost 17
pigs dont fly

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City, State - Country

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Hi there, err dunno if you realised, you said 'this will help when I go brushless' but I am using a stock 370 brushed motor...anywayz you will notice when the lipos are going down as the heli will sink and get wallowy. Its a good idea to get a lipo alarm rather than fly till they go low as this protects the batteries from the power going below minimum voltage under load during flight, thus extending your lipos life. Get a Hrpoly-x they are nice and lightweight and fully programmable.
Rgds
E

Warning...This hobby is very addictive and may damage your wealth

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11-04-2004 02:27 PM  13 years agoPost 18
docnascar

rrVeteran

Maryland, USA

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Thanks for the low volt indicator tip. I may get that one. I ran across the http://www.battsignal.com/ also. A little cheaper and it doesn't have data logging. Any opinions on that one? I like the data logging option though. The hr-poly says you can set it between 2.5V and 4V per cell for the alarm. Where do you set yours?


I'm starting to understand this stuff better. Thanks.

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11-04-2004 10:01 PM  13 years agoPost 19
pigs dont fly

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City, State - Country

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Set it to 3v per cell, min is 2.5v so 3v gives a little margin. It will give your lipos a longer lifespan.

Warning...This hobby is very addictive and may damage your wealth

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11-12-2004 08:02 AM  13 years agoPost 20
synchro505

rrApprentice

Topanga, CA

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Do you think the HBv3 5-in-1 box can handle the current from a lipo-ion (either 11.1 or 7.4) 800MaH max?

synchro

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