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HelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters › Hirobo Bell UH-1B Iroquois HUEY SOLD
04-28-2004 06:18 AM  13 years agoPost 21
flipped2left

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indianapolis,in.

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something this size i'm not going to risk shipping!i would rather meet him at a halfway point with a truck. hope it fits!! who knows i might show up at I.R.C.H.A. with it! ken

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04-28-2004 11:43 AM  13 years agoPost 22
cp8

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Buckeye State

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I am sure everyone would understand that unless an agreement of sale or trade is made the first buyer with the cash gets it. It's the only way I can do this.

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04-28-2004 05:47 PM  13 years agoPost 23
flipped2left

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indianapolis,in.

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I understand completely.. ken

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04-28-2004 10:24 PM  13 years agoPost 24
cp8

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Buckeye State

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Thanks Ken, It is true though that shipping this beast is not something I look forward to. Delivery or pickup is really the way I prefer.

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03-05-2012 06:13 PM  5 years agoPost 25
jones007

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Monterey, CA - USA

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I know this is a really, really old thread, but I have one of these very old Hirobo gasser UH-1Bs that has been in storage for nearly 20 years in a half-built state. I'm in the process of finishing it up, replacing all the internal mechanics with an electric drive system. I would be really interested to talk with anyone that has flown one of these to discuss setup; blades used, headspeed, pitch range, etc.

--Kevin

Trex 700N, Trex 600ESP, Trex 500, Trex 450Pro

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03-05-2012 11:48 PM  5 years agoPost 26
dgoss999

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UK - Lancashire

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UH1B

Hi Kevin,

This is my Huey flying in the UK last summer.

It started life with with me in 1997 with an OS60SX for about a year, then I converted it to 4Stroke with a Saito 90 - running fine until last spring, now it's converted to Electric and has a Scorpion 4035 running on 8s x 5800 Lipo. I get about 12 - 14 mins on this setup.

/David.

"Believe none of what you hear, and only half of what you see." • Benjamin Franklin

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03-06-2012 12:13 AM  5 years agoPost 27
jones007

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Monterey, CA - USA

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Hi David,

It's beautiful. I can't tell from the photos - was this the 60-sized fuselage or the huge gasser? Mine's the gasser. I bought it from a friend, partially built back in the late 80's. He picked it up in the UK on a whim (from Len Mount I think), but quickly realized that he didn't have the patience for such a project. I worked on it while I was in school, basically doing ridiculous amounts of scale detail work, then stored it at my parents house for 20 years when I graduated and got a job. I finally retrieved it and decided to go electric. I'm fitting all the mechanics behind the back seats so that I can have a full scale interior, front and back. I'm a little worried about CG, as everything heavy will be at or behind CG.

I still have the stock Hirobo head, which I like because it looks pretty scale (except for the paddles), but I'm a little nervous about using heavy CF blades on the head. The original twisted wood blades were very light. I plan to keep headspeed under 1k to get it to sound somewhat real. I noticed one company selling an 800 sized head that ditched the paddles and has scale weights in their place. I'm curious how they rig that up - if the weights are still connected to a Bell/Hiller mixer, or just free, and they depend on a flybar-less mixer for stability.

--Kevin

Trex 700N, Trex 600ESP, Trex 500, Trex 450Pro

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03-06-2012 12:22 PM  5 years agoPost 28
dgoss999

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UK - Lancashire

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Kevin,

I'm not sure if this is Gasser or 60 size as it was virtually empty when I got it from the same source as you (Len Mount) in 1996. Len had part fitted a GMP Mechanics.

It's about 60" nose to tail, to give you an idea of the size. I have it flying on 760mm 'wide chord' Sitar blades turning around 1200 RPM.

Pitch range with the 4035 400Kv Scorpion is about -3 to +11 (+13 with Throttle hold) Controller is a Castle Creations 120 (Low Volt with BEC) the Lipo is 8s as I said previously

Is the head you describe is the old Vario 'Scale' head, (used on the Huey and Bell 47), then the bob weights are dummies and have no effect on the geometry.

I think there were 2 types of the Hirobo head with flybar like I have - This one here which was the FAI style and then there was a 'Scale' head which added about 3-4deg of fixed coning angle. My one is flat/zero coning.

/David.

"Believe none of what you hear, and only half of what you see." • Benjamin Franklin

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03-06-2012 05:39 PM  5 years agoPost 29
jones007

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Monterey, CA - USA

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The head I have is the cheaper one that GMP sold for the Cobra, with the coning built in. It's what shipped on the larger Hirobo model, probably the small one as well, although I don't know this for sure. It's fairly scale for the UH-1B, except for the paddles, and of course the CCPM for collective/cyclic.

From another thread, I found this head: http://www.justscale.co.nz/catalog/...products_id=365, but it seems to really be flybarless, with free flying dummy weights. I'm curious if anyone has tried the flybar weights (without paddles) still coupled to the Bell/Hiller mixers. I think the real head had dampers on the flybar, and perhaps this is a critical element. I think I'll start with the paddles, and then maybe start reducing them to notion to see what happens.

I've only tinkered with flybarless systems. I've recently started flying an Align UH-60 with their 4-bladed head. I started with the Align 3GX mixer, but didn't really trust it, as I had some weird, unpredictable binding issues with the Spektrum satellite receivers. I recently switched to the Spektrum/BeastX RX, but haven't flown it yet. With my limited experience with flybarless, I have to say that I'm disappointed with their performance at lift-off and touch-down. Not a problem for 3D, but it seems to be very difficult to have scale lift-off and touchdown, as contact with the ground wreaks havoc on the heading-hold functionality of the mixers. Many years ago, we flew the GMP Legend with the flybarless head, and of course no gyros, and it actually pretty well, even with the old light-weight wooden blades. I'd be interested to hear how many folks flying scale, flybarless helis have skipped the stabilization units.

--Kevin

Trex 700N, Trex 600ESP, Trex 500, Trex 450Pro

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03-06-2012 07:00 PM  5 years agoPost 30
dgoss999

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UK - Lancashire

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Just curious, but the Huey head when I got it had an 8mm centre hub which I finally machined out to 10mm.. Although, the mainshaft in the original model had a 10mm shaft, the shaft was stepped from 10mm to 8mm to fit the head!! I wanted the rotor to be high in the scale position, so the supplied stepped shaft had to be abandoned for an alternative!

As far as FBL heads go, typically they are rigid so the fuzz will pitch with the rotor rather than to ride smoothly beneath any damping system. Also you will find the FBL system less forgiving in the hover in wind. I find I have less accuracy in my hovering on the FBL heads in a bit of wind than I do with the Flybar machines.. It's a choice to consider whether you go flybar or not.

I also fly a 22yr old KKK Robinson that was flybarless from way back then - nice to fly, and unusually well damped for a FBL head so doesn't pitch too much.

/DG

"Believe none of what you hear, and only half of what you see." • Benjamin Franklin

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03-06-2012 08:14 PM  5 years agoPost 31
jones007

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Monterey, CA - USA

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My main-shaft and head are the same - 8mm where the shaft goes in the head, and also 8mm at the bottom where it bolted into the gearbox. I'd have to go back and check, but I believe the GMP cobra and super cobra were the same, and we flew those pretty aggressively back in the day, not 3D as CY was just inventing 3D at that time, but I never really damaged one much even in a crash. I was tempted to drill out the hub for 10mm, but the hub is cast out of material of dubious strength, so I wasn't sure if I would really gain anything from that. Did you fly the stock cast Hirobo head drilled out to 10mm? Guess I could have one machined out of real metal. I'm a little nervous about a 10mm shaft that long as well. I toyed with bumping up to a 12mm shaft, but swashplate selections get limited.

--Kevin

Trex 700N, Trex 600ESP, Trex 500, Trex 450Pro

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03-06-2012 10:50 PM  5 years agoPost 32
dgoss999

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UK - Lancashire

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Kevin,

My main shaft is 10mm and shade under 13" long and quite hard. It has been fine for the past 15yrs.... Don't be tempted to drill out the Rotor hub, without setting with zero runout in a 4 jaw chuck.. Any run-out/off centre and you'll have vibration you will never get rid of.... I know, as I had the problem of run-out (only a few .01ths of a mm), so eventually machined out a new centre hub from a block. It was the only way I could get it all true again.

The other cheaper alternative is to get a 10 or 12mm shaft ground down to 8mm to fit your current hub size. Not the best solution and I was dubious about doing that.

What you should also consider with the rotor hub is how you now clamp it to the Main shaft.. I made the hub with a collar round its base to clamp it to the shaft. You can see the lump on the head in the pictures of the machine against the sky. With the bug heavy blades, it did tended to rock back and forward on the shaft before the mod!!

Once it was all the 'Scaling up' was done its a great machine to fly..

Its based on the 'Cliffhanger' Machine, although that was a UH1-D I believe - the longer version, but it still looks OK..

I have an underslung load hook which works and also the Rescue Winch that swings out and runs up and down.. All a bit of a handfull to do while hovering in the wind and not something I would like to try as FBL...

/DG

"Believe none of what you hear, and only half of what you see." • Benjamin Franklin

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03-07-2012 12:19 AM  5 years agoPost 33
jones007

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Monterey, CA - USA

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Thanks for the photos. You're absolutely correct, I would never dream of manually drilling out the hub for 10mm. I have a machinist that would do it if I decided to go that route, I'm just not all that confident in the strength of the material they use on the hub, and I think it's a toss up as to whether it's better to used the stepped main-shaft or a drilled out hub. I have the original stepped (8/10mm) main-shaft, and planned to use that. I'm glad to hear that your very long 10mm shaft has held up well.

Looks like you are using some old Schluter/Robbe gearing. I'm opting for Trex 700 gearing for the main, and custom gears for the tail-drive. I really wanted all the mechanics to be hidden behind the back wall of the back cabin. The Trex 700 main gear is too large for that, but I can hide it in the amo case under the back seat. The tail drive gear is way up high, and has to be small diameter to remain hidden. I'm having a little bit of trouble finding Mod 0.7 plastic gears of the right size (96 tooth). I found some with a 6mm face, but I would prefer a wider face for those big tail blades. Presently I'm thinking about stacking two to get a 12mm face.

The original heli used a flex shaft for the tail drive, but that thing was heavy, draggy and noisy. I've replaced it with torque tube drives and an old 45 degree gearbox that Schluter sold for the BO105. It's a bit heavier than I would like way back in the tail, but it's built well with hardened steel gears. The tail gearbox is the original Hirobo unit that GMP used on their shaft driven helis. It actually looks pretty scale. The pitch change uses a center shaft through the drive shaft, common back then, but rarely used these days, and I replaced the stock, slotted pitch change arm with a ball-bearing arm with a ball fit on the pitch change wire to remove slop. Not quite as nice as some of the modern tails, but it looks good, and works much better than before.

I'll upload some photos as the design comes together.

--Kevin

Trex 700N, Trex 600ESP, Trex 500, Trex 450Pro

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01-26-2013 08:18 PM  4 years agoPost 34
Andy Herbert

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Wales UK

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Hi Guy's just found this site a few minutes ago and have signed up.
I see the Huey Bell UH-1B Iroquois sold really fast"
I had mine about 10 years now and bought her second hand from Bob Johnston.
Its a 25cc the same as the one here.
When I bought her she had some work needed doing and I still need spare parts.
Main Shaft has a slight kink in it and the bearings in the tail rotor, and the air filter assembly.
Also need the fins on the fuselage.
I have had her up and flying and its a real site to see,she 's been sat at my fathers house for a bit.
Can you still get the wooden blade or not?
I'd love to hear back from you.
Best Regards

Andy Herbert

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HelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters › Hirobo Bell UH-1B Iroquois HUEY SOLD
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