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HelicopterHIROBOOther › Wheel collars for head balance
04-23-2002 02:16 AM  15 years agoPost 1
STEELGUY

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Ft. Myers, FL

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I'm in the process of building a Sceadu 30, and I'm curious if anyone else has found it neccesary to include wheel collars on the stabilizer bar to help with head balancing? I've built a Shuttle Z and an Ergo 46, and they both needed a little adjusting with collars to get the heads right. Thanks for any help you can give.

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04-23-2002 02:47 AM  15 years agoPost 2
heliman41

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Valparaiso IN. USA

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Yea, thats 1 way to do it.

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04-23-2002 02:52 AM  15 years agoPost 3
ChrisMoore

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Bay Village, OH

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thats how its done.

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04-23-2002 09:59 PM  15 years agoPost 4
HelicopterHead

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Los Angeles

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That's the way I do it too, but it is possible to get it balanced without them by trial and error. Start with both paddles screwed in a few turns from all the way in, and equidistant from the center. Then screw the light paddle in all the way and recenter the bar. Basically, you shift the bar towards the light paddle and keep recentering until they are balanced and equidistant. Big hassle, which is why I switched to the wheel collar method, which can be accomplished in 10 seconds.

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04-24-2002 07:07 PM  15 years agoPost 5
Zach Sparks

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Norton Shores, MI

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04-24-2002 07:29 PM  15 years agoPost 6
HelicopterHead

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Los Angeles

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My flybar was a #%$!@ to balance. I am close to same length bar on each side. One side is like 1/16 inch longer than the other. Certainly not ideal and I would like to correct it.
I hear ya! That's exactly my experience. When I went to wheel collars, I accomplished literally perfect balance in seconds, and exact centering. Not surprisingly, my heli lost a minor vibration in the process. It now runs smoooooooooth.

You could start with the wheel collars in all the way, as this would minimize the effect of their extra weight. Personally, I put mine just to the inside of center on the bar. I did not remove the paddle weight and didn't notice any difference in flight characteristics (except that the hel was smoother). But I'm a beginner, so the wildest I get is loops, rolls, inverted hover. The collars are tiny and don't weigh much. I might remove the paddle weights later.

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04-24-2002 07:32 PM  15 years agoPost 7
rob_jones

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Perry, GA

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zsparks: Correct

I put one wheel collar on each side of the flybar, then put the paddles on. Since most helis use metric flybars and I use DuBro wheel collars n standard sizes, they are a little bigger than the flybar. So be sure they are tight.

I start with both collars as far inboard as they will go. Then gradually move the one on the light side out until it balances. Of course this is done with the flybar centered (equal amounts on either side of the rotor head).

I've used this method for a long time with good results. It may be a little "clunkier" than shifting the flybar, but it's easy, cheap and works!

Blade 550X, T-Rex 450 Pro FBL

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04-24-2002 07:40 PM  15 years agoPost 8
Zach Sparks

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Norton Shores, MI

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04-24-2002 07:52 PM  15 years agoPost 9
rob_jones

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Perry, GA

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Paddle Weight

No, I don't remove any paddle weights. I suppose you could, but we're only talking about a few grams here. I dare say that the vast majority of us will never notice any effect on handling. Curtis or Gary might, but they are in a league all their own.

Blade 550X, T-Rex 450 Pro FBL

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04-25-2002 02:38 AM  15 years agoPost 10
Zach Sparks

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Norton Shores, MI

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04-25-2002 02:50 AM  15 years agoPost 11
HelicopterHead

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Los Angeles

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I really like the KSJ muffler. It has a decidedly more mellow note than the stock muffler, it looks good, makes good power, is light, and has almost totally eliminated the fuel residue I used to get on my machine from the stock muffler (I also use a diverter).

Other upgrades: Third bearing block, CF fins, CF/titanium tail pushrod (nix the plastic pushrod supports!) ,CF tail blades, CF main blades (I like CF ), DBest header tank, DBest aluminum fin/boom brace block, DBest aluminum tail servo mount (sweet) black Hirobo main gear (which I got for free), 1800mAh Rx pack. Whew!

Having said all that, the only ones that have really improved my flying experience are the header tank and Rx pack. Everything else is just for fun and pride of ownership. My next planned upgrade is the aluminum fan.

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04-25-2002 05:47 AM  15 years agoPost 12
Zach Sparks

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Norton Shores, MI

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04-25-2002 03:44 PM  15 years agoPost 13
HelicopterHead

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Los Angeles

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Let me know if it seems to make any difference with engine cooling. I might spring for something else as my next upgrade (perhaps a DTDS?) if it really does not perform any better. Also let me know if it makes the machine run any smoother. I'm thinking that the CNC fan may have a better balance to it (I've never bothered to balance my stock fan, so for all I know it is fine, as my machine runs pretty smooth already).

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04-25-2002 04:17 PM  15 years agoPost 14
kyoshokamper

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HOUSTON, TX, U.S.A.

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I use Hexoganal Raptor weights

I use the metal inserts from the l-shaped raptor 30 flybar control levers because they are a perfect fit for 3mm flybars and the set screws are metric and fit my tools. I tried to use planker wheel collars and all of them were sae! Yuck! Don't want any sae stuf on my birds or any sae stuff in my tool box. Also the collars I found didn't fit the shaft well and the ugly misfit was obvious. If someone has found 3mm wheel collars with metric set screws plese respond with manufacturer and maybe part#'s because I'm running out of the hex inserts.

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HelicopterHIROBOOther › Wheel collars for head balance
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