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HelicopterMain Discussion › Appealing to RR brains on micro fasteners to prevent ball link pops off. *An Idea*
05-15-2018 08:55 PM  4 days agoPost 41
InvertedDude

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USA

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Ball link size and screws
Rotor Grip
HMJ2-10N self tapping screw (M2x10) QTY 2 <-- M2 means 2mm x10 means 10mm but is it .04 pitch thread?

BK0075 Linkage Ball Size 4.71mm ball sized.

Pitch thread? Is this .04 pitch thread?

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05-15-2018 09:02 PM  4 days agoPost 42
JuanRodriguez

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The Villages, Florida

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InvertedDude
Humm...yeah I am! Why didn't you say something else earlier? Is there another options such as using mikado metal balls/Ball links/screws?

I have some rocket city fasteners links.
I hadn't said anything till now because it wasn't apparent what you were using until I saw your pic on post #37 !!

First thing we did all did was to throw all those cheesy screws in the spare screw bin to "possibly" use for some other application. We attached the balls to the arms by using a 2.5 mm socket head or button head machine screw with a nut on the back of the arm to secure the screw. I'm not home at the moment so I'm going from memory on the size of the screw...That size is just right to go into and through the plastic arms especially if you sharpen the end of the screw slightly to a point. I used a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel . Thoroughly cleaning the screw AND nut with a degreaser such as break clean spray.

https://www.zoro.com/crc-brake-part...ASABEgJrnPD_BwE

People say they use alcohol to degrease but IMO, alcohol is not strong enough to do a thorough job....

I mentioned before that Rocket City links are far superior than the TT links and they afford you the ability to make half turn adjustments whereas TT links do not.....

And if you install a TT link on backwards (if you did on that tail rotor push rod) that itself may have been the reason it popped off.....

To set up a helicopter using that method takes time..... the socket head screws need to be trimmed to the correct length so that it doesn't fowl on anything during use..... but to me, it's worth the little extra effort....

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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05-15-2018 09:07 PM  4 days agoPost 43
InvertedDude

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JuanRodriguez
Just admit it, you wanted a n00b like me to crash!

Anyways, I am willing to do the extra time to get it right. Don't think the link was on backwards. The TT name is always on the opposite side of the fastener.

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05-15-2018 09:17 PM  4 days agoPost 44
JuanRodriguez

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The Villages, Florida

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What I described may be overkill but I think that someone with a "heavy hand" can easily over tighten the self tapping screw and weaken the thread that is made in the servo arm... but if that was the failure point , you would wind up with the ball still inside the link after the carnage....

If you want more "security", do the machine screw deal..... if not, just be careful not to over torque the ss screws.....

I hate for anyone to crash..... it makes my stomach turn !!!

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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05-16-2018 12:09 AM  4 days agoPost 45
JuanRodriguez

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The Villages, Florida

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Inverted,

Here is a "visual" as to what I was describing..... I can't recall what heli I had this on years ago....

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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05-16-2018 12:13 AM  4 days agoPost 46
InvertedDude

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USA

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Juan
Yes, I see the nut....I have that too!

I am ordering some balls and new links to tighten up the whole helicopter. Probably will still use the flat washers, I like how they work.

Looking for some 2mm allen screws too with nut.

2mm x 10mm

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05-16-2018 12:14 AM  4 days agoPost 47
JuanRodriguez

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The Villages, Florida

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Anything you can do to improve your chances is good !!

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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05-16-2018 06:32 PM  3 days agoPost 48
Pistol Pete

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Seffner, FL

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InvertedDude
Looking for some 2mm allen screws too with nut.

2mm x 10mm
https://www.microfasteners.com/sear...&keep_https=yes

~~Enjoying the hobby one flight at a time~~

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05-16-2018 07:09 PM  3 days agoPost 49
BeltFedBrowning

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Kansas City

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05-16-2018 07:20 PM  3 days agoPost 50
InvertedDude

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USA

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Exactly what I need gents!
Thank you, still prepping the machine. It is close to flight time but I am low on Cool Power 30%....I am thinking of moving on to VP fuels. I am tired of supply constraints.

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05-19-2018 06:08 PM  17 hours agoPost 51
InvertedDude

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USA

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Update on problem solving
I was able to obtain full swash movement without any binding.

Longer screw with 7mm washer and nut between ball and washer.

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05-19-2018 07:00 PM  16 hours agoPost 52
KC

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WA

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Invert, I used to use rocket city links and MA balls back on raptors, Mikado's balls oughta work too now or whoever is left making anything decent.

For any of the links that can't be replaced, like the oval links on the flybar or triangular elev links (can't remember if Titan had these too) or the tail arm, "double ball" it.

Put the link on the innermost ball and if it pops the outer ball will stop it without binding. You'll still have a half connected link and an intact chopper.

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05-19-2018 07:30 PM  15 hours agoPost 53
InvertedDude

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USA

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Full Flybar movement without binding update

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05-19-2018 07:42 PM  15 hours agoPost 54
InvertedDude

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USA

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KC
Invert, I used to use rocket city links and MA balls back on raptors, Mikado's balls oughta work too now or whoever is left making anything decent.
For any of the links that can't be replaced, like the oval links on the flybar or triangular elev links (can't remember if Titan had these too) or the tail arm, "double ball" it.
Put the link on the innermost ball and if it pops the outer ball will stop it without binding. You'll still have a half connected link and an intact chopper.
Good ideas here! Thank you on the suggestions!

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HelicopterMain Discussion › Appealing to RR brains on micro fasteners to prevent ball link pops off. *An Idea*
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