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HelicopterFlybarless Rotor Head SystemsBeastX › BeastX Paramaeter Menu "B" (Control Behavior) Preset Values
02-01-2018 02:47 PM  20 days agoPost 1


Kernersville, NC USA

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Hello everyone,

I've searched for information on the Preset Values for Control Behavior in the Parameter Menu B (Preset Expo and Rate) but I haven't been able to find anything so I decided to run the software (Studio X) to see what those values are. If you hover your mouse pointer over the words Normal, Sport, Pro, Extreme and Transmitter while using the Studio-X software, it indicates those values for you.

Here are the values for those who either don't have the Software or the USB Interface:

"User Defined" Option has no Preset Expo or Rate Values so it's totally up to you but it can only be adjusted by using the software.

Normal Preset (For Beginners):

Expo for Cyclic = 50
Rate for Cyclic = 75
Expo for Rudder = 65
Rate for Rudder = 75

Sport Preset (For Intermediate)

Expo for Cyclic = 35
Rate for Cyclic = 75
Expo for Rudder = 45
Rate for Rudder = 80

Pro Preset (For Pros)

Expo for Cyclic = 20
Rate for Cyclic = 90
Expo for Rudder = 35
Rate for Rudder = 85

Extreme Preset (For those who can afford it )

Expo for Cyclic = 15
Rate for Cyclic = 95
Expo for Rudder = 30
Rate for Rudder = 90

Transmitter Preset (Yes, there is an Expo even for Transmitter Mode, Surprised me too!)

Expo for Cyclic = 5
Rate for Cyclic = 100
Expo for Rudder = 10
Rate for Rudder = 100

If, for example, you choose the Transmitter Preset, and you set your Expo and Rate at:
Expo for Cyclic = 35
Rate for Cyclic = 75
Expo for Rudder = 45
Rate for Rudder = 80
You have essentially matched the Sport Preset.

The nice thing about using the Transmitter Preset is that it allows you to set it up for a Control Behavior between Pro and Extreme (for example) without having to connect it to the software.
It's essentially the same as User Defined except you can't eliminate the Preset 5% and 10% Expo that's in the Transmitter Preset.

It is not recommended to use more than a minor adjustment of Rates in your transmitter unless you choose the "Transmitter" Preset.
They also do not recommend any additional Expo with the Presets unless you choose the "Transmitter" Preset
Doing so can cause issues with the Control (PID) Loops if you use too much (especially while performing more aggressive 3D maneuvers).

Note: I have tried using a fair amount of Rate reduction and Expo increase while using the Sport Preset and it worked good until I started getting more aggressive with 3D maneuvers, then it wasn't as precise as it was with mild flights so it does seem to be important to follow their guidelines for Expo and Rate.
I will admit that since I quit adding Rate and Expo to a Preset (as well as insuring I get the Blue status lights in menu points J and L), my helis seem to be more stable even for mild maneuvers.

I'd like to clarify the term "Rate"
In this case the term "Rate" refers to the number of degrees per second that your heli will roll, pitch or yaw (which also refers to how far the servos will travel while in flight, also known as Servo Throw).
Some are getting the idea that "Rate" refers to how fast the servos move but in reality, it has all to do with how far they travel "When" your heli is in flight (not while sitting on a bench or table).

It is true that when your heli is sitting still, the servos will go to their extreme end points of 100% without moving the stick all the way out as far as it will go but the way it behaves in flight will be different.
Having said that, it's worth mentioning that a good way to tell if you're close is by how much of the cyclic stick is effective. If the swash goes to maximum throw with only half stick input, that's not enough. it's OK to have a "Dead" zone for about the last 10 to 15% of the stick travel at 100% rate for the setup, in other words, if you move the stick from center position towards the full left or right limit and the swash plate moves proportionally up to about 90% of the stick travel, then it will be fine even if the light is still red but near the point of turning blue (as long as it doesn't bind, be sure to check all possible stick positions including at full positive and negative collective).

I was told by a BeastX Repair Tech that the gyro knows when it's in the air when the sensors in the controller start responding to your transmitter's stick inputs, this is also what activates the control loops, if the sensors cannot respond to the transmitter inputs because it's not moving, it knows that it's sitting still on a bench somewhere and prevents the control loops from activating.
When you tilt and rotate your heli to test the swash and tail sensor directions during a pre-flight inspection, that movement causes the control loops to activate but the control loops aren't operating at maximum (until it's in the air).

Personally, I always use the transmitter preset so I can dial it in the way I want.
One major advantage is being able to dial in cyclic control behavior separate from the tail control behavior.
Lets say you like the way your cyclic handles in the pro preset but you like the way the tail handles in the sport preset, using the transmitter preset allows you to mix them any way you choose.

I Hope this helps others who are wondering what they should use for the preset control behavior.

02-01-2018 05:43 PM  20 days agoPost 2
Pistol Pete


Seffner, FL

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Great post and thanks for sharing!

~~Enjoying the hobby one flight at a time~~

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HelicopterFlybarless Rotor Head SystemsBeastX › BeastX Paramaeter Menu "B" (Control Behavior) Preset Values
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