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HelicopterGasser Model RC HelicoptersEngines › Zenoah G260PUH condition?
01-07-2018 07:28 AM  3 months agoPost 1
PaulBowen

rrKey Veteran

Victoria, Australia.

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Hello fellow Gassers

I’m just looking for opinions on this engine after about 35 hours of operation?

Too rich?
Too lean?
Too much oil or maybe not enough?

Futaba T18SZ, JR Propo XG14, Hirobo fanatic!

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01-07-2018 01:48 PM  3 months agoPost 2
banshee rider

rrApprentice

n.e. illinois

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I would say its been run lean with a little to much dinosaur oil

ageing is manditory maturity is optional

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01-07-2018 02:02 PM  3 months agoPost 3
fastflyer20

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N. Tonawanda, NY

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Piston looks great so it has not run lean. Throw on a new ring to restore some power. Pull wrist pin and replace pin and bearing if it shows wear or has play. Only use OEM Zenoah parts, this has been a weak link in a few engines.

Looks like a lot of carbon buildup. Clean it all out of ports, head and piston top. A high quality full synthetic oil should have less carbon.

May want to replace crank seals while it is apart and check crank bearings. The con rod and lower con rod bearing are ballistic, check but should be in good condition.

Tom
CAUTION - my posts are based on my experiences, yours may be different.

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01-07-2018 02:31 PM  3 months agoPost 4
Professor Fate

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Goose Creek S.C.

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I don't fly a gasser but have been around 2 strokes for years. I only use Klotz oil. I have an Echo blower that's 25 years old and still going strong. Always mix the gas/oil exactly. Don't think that more oil is better. More oil can cause a lean condition. Less oil well...
Always use good oil and mix exact.

Welcome my son, Welcome to the machine

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01-07-2018 07:23 PM  3 months agoPost 5
JuanRodriguez

rrProfessor

The Villages, Florida

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How about a little more info such as the type of oil and the mix ratio....

To me, looks like possibly the wrong type of oil ??

When I had my gassers (and gas lawn equipment) I used Amzoil 100 % synthetic mixed at about 60:1

I agree that the piston looks great , no lean run there that I can see....

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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01-07-2018 10:09 PM  3 months agoPost 6
PaulBowen

rrKey Veteran

Victoria, Australia.

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Thanks guys. I gave no other information initially to just get your gut feelings before giving away more.

This is my first gasser engine and has run on mineral oil at 40:1 for about 4 hours, then Motul cart racing full synthetic for about 15 hours then the rest of the time on Stihl HP Super 50:1 for the rest of the time. I believe the carbon buildup was from the first 5-10 hours. I stopped using Motul because of the foul smelling exhaust.

The engine has been installed in my GSR260Z running at about 9-10k engine rpm. This gives a head rpm of 1300-1400. The blades are 810’s. The engine failed at the 35 hour mark due to either a carb or ignition coil issue.

I have installed a new engine which I have run for 4 hours on Stihl mineral oil at 32:1 and am now running Stihl HP Ultra full synthetic oil at 32:1. I use Stihl oils because I also have a Stihl chainsaw and blower that I run on 50:1.

Where I fly is at 2000ft above mean sea level with density altitudes between 0-4000ft but mostly 2000-4000ft. I’ve chosen 32-1 to give more protection at leaner mixtures at this altitude and also partial throttle descent where the rpm is high but with little fuel flow. My new engine is set at 1½ H 1⅜ L as I am paranoid about running lean.

All opinions welcome. Just remember many US oil brands are not available in Australia.

Futaba T18SZ, JR Propo XG14, Hirobo fanatic!

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01-08-2018 01:35 AM  3 months agoPost 7
rbort

rrProfessor

Franklin, MA - USA

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Stop using mineral oils to break in
They can be dirty and cause alot of the carbon. Also, you might be running it hot as to the cause of why you see all the tarnish on the sides of the piston.

Stihl oil is good, just use the 100% synthetic at 32:1.

What carb is on it? 990 or 643?

-=>Raja.

MA 1005 Hanson 280, 4187 flts
Spectra 27 3DMax, 3252 flts
Whiplash V1-2 Hanson 300, 1503 flts
Whiplash V2 Hanson 300, 349 flts

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01-08-2018 02:31 AM  3 months agoPost 8
banshee rider

rrApprentice

n.e. illinois

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Check the top of the new engine to see if it has all that build up on the piston if it does clean it off

that carbon can come off the top and jam/damage a ring

stop using the mineral oil for break in
use a dino oil

switch to almost any name brand 100% synthetic oil after break in
of 1 to 2 gallons of fuel with dino oil

ageing is manditory maturity is optional

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01-08-2018 02:57 AM  3 months agoPost 9
PaulBowen

rrKey Veteran

Victoria, Australia.

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stop using the mineral oil for break in
use a dino oil
Sorry but what is a dino oil? I thought it was mineral oil?

Futaba T18SZ, JR Propo XG14, Hirobo fanatic!

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01-08-2018 04:17 AM  3 months agoPost 10
Gearhead

rrMaster

Vt

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but what is a dino oil?
Crude oil

Jim
Buzz Buzz Buzz

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01-08-2018 02:29 PM  3 months agoPost 11
RM3

rrElite Veteran

Killeen, Texas - USA

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DO NOT REPLACE THE RING....

that piston ring has already broken in with the cylinder walls as well as the ring groove and formed a wear pattern that will give you the best compression seal... a new ring will not seat as good as one that is already worn in with the nikasil plating on the wall.

showing a preference will only get you into trouble, 90% of everything is crap...

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01-21-2018 09:11 PM  3 months agoPost 12
PaulBowen

rrKey Veteran

Victoria, Australia.

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I will probably just clean and re-assemble the engine.

Stihl fully synthetic at 32:1 is my current oil of choice. Next time I run one in it will be on fully synthetic as the mineral oil just isn’t worth the mess and I’m in no particular hurry.

Futaba T18SZ, JR Propo XG14, Hirobo fanatic!

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01-22-2018 02:16 AM  3 months agoPost 13
Dawiev

rrApprentice

Middle East

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KLOTZ RC MODELUBE® GASBURNER® ( the gold label) is rated for 9,000 RPM only. I would suggest one of their other more applicable products, if you consider this brand.

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HelicopterGasser Model RC HelicoptersEngines › Zenoah G260PUH condition?
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