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Electric General Discussion
› Temperature limits on motors and esc's
06-27-2017 04:09 AM  4 months agoPost 1
Dbchopper78

rrNewbie

South jersey

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I have heard how hot is to hot? It is hot to the touch?

I have a Align 470LM. Using a pulse 1800 mah 65c, flying pretty hard 3D ( I was not the pilot, lol) for just under 5 min. Temperature was about 85 and sunny. Mechanically the heli was good i.e. Gear mesh etc. The stock motor came in at 127 and the hobbywing was at 135.
These temps were hot to the touch but not burning. On a cooler day maybe low 70s motor was slightly warm to the touch.

So my question is does the heli need a cool down time. Running back to back batteries is ok?

What temperature would be to hot?

I thought others would be interested in this topic so here it is.
Thanks guys.

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06-27-2017 05:15 AM  4 months agoPost 2
EEngineer

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TX

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The motor or ESC?

Logo 600SXs, 800XX, TDR IIs

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06-27-2017 05:36 AM  4 months agoPost 3
Danny Calderone

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South Jersey

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Hey Green Van Dan...

From the Hobbywing sight:

"Generally, our ESC is designed for the performance at temperature range up to 70 ℃, the highest at 80 ℃ (150F-175F). Any higher temp will result in damaging ESC.

For HOBBYWING brushless Motor, 90-100℃ (194-212F) is within threshold"

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06-27-2017 11:55 AM  4 months agoPost 4
Dbchopper78

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South jersey

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Thanks for your research.

So it sounds like no matter what your flying, with summer temperatures, a cool down time between flights would be very necessary.

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07-04-2017 11:12 AM  4 months agoPost 5
Richardmid1

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Leeds, England

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The Hobbywing ESC have 'Multiple protections' including 'ESC thermal'.

To me this means the ESC would shut down or reduce RPM when the temp gets too high. However it may just emit a tone or LED flash after an over temp flight, im not sure.

There are ways you can keep the ESC cooler:

Move it to where it will get better air flow.
Add a fan.
Decrease motor timing.
Decrease head speed, best done by increasing gear ratio.
Decrease pitch.

60% of the time, it works every time!

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07-05-2017 12:01 PM  4 months agoPost 6
learnedthehrdwy

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Saginaw, MI

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Like Richard mentioned, making sure you're using the correct PWM and timing for your motor/esc combo is very important..

There is a bit of a range you can run especially with timing but setting it to manufacturers spec's will keep it as cool as possible. The Xnova motor in my Mini Protos recommends different settings for different brands of esc's so that's something to watch out for.

Higher settings will yield more power but also more heat. A lesson I learned the hard way when I got greedy with a cheap 6s HobbyKing motor. Its power was disappointing so I maxed out timing and PWM in the esc to squeeze everything I could out of it.

Was ripping sky like a champ for about 2 minutes until it disintegrated lol. Knew there was a good chance that would happen but it was a cheap POS so I went for it anyway. Although I figured it would puke after 20-50 flights, not 2min into flight #1

Esc getting hot can be a sign you have a bad solder joint somewhere. Using a battery with too low of a C rating for your application can heat things up quite a bit as well

MSH P380/Lynx'd Mini Protos×3/Chase 360/Trex 450/180cfx/230s/SK540's,YGE,MKS,KST, Xnova,Scorpion,Switch,RJX/UMX Pitts/Valiant 1.3/RochobbyMX

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07-05-2017 12:08 PM  4 months agoPost 7
Richardmid1

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Leeds, England

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.Using a battery with too low of a C rating for your application can heat things up quite a bit as well
That would heat the pack up more but would have the opposite effect on the motor and esc.

60% of the time, it works every time!

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09-03-2017 02:17 PM  76 days agoPost 8
learnedthehrdwy

rrNovice

Saginaw, MI

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True but on my helis it also transfers quite a bit of heat to the esc that's directly on the other side of the battery tray. Almost the whole heli feels hot after having a giant heated brick under the canopy for 5min but you're right that it doesn't effect the motor much if any.

Guess I should have said battery and esc instead of "things"

MSH P380/Lynx'd Mini Protos×3/Chase 360/Trex 450/180cfx/230s/SK540's,YGE,MKS,KST, Xnova,Scorpion,Switch,RJX/UMX Pitts/Valiant 1.3/RochobbyMX

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09-03-2017 03:07 PM  76 days agoPost 9
EEngineer

rrProfessor

TX

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Esc getting hot can be a sign you have a bad solder joint somewhere.
I would think that a bad/cold solder joint would lead to a ESC or motor connector becoming hot.

A cold joint will have excess resistance.....and when high currents are passed through it, the connector will dissipate more power as resistive heat(P = I^2 * R).

The battery's internal resistance will cause the battery to get hot in a similar fashion. More IR leads to a hotter pack.

Logo 600SXs, 800XX, TDR IIs

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09-03-2017 08:48 PM  76 days agoPost 10
learnedthehrdwy

rrNovice

Saginaw, MI

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Yup more resistance= more heat. Don't know if it also makes me esc work harder, if it's heat transfer from the heated wire or both.

One day I noticed the esc on my little 180 was getting quite a bit hotter than usual but I couldn't find anything​ wrong with it. Couple dozen flights later it started randomly losing power. Plugged it in then wiggled the wires around and found it cut out when I wiggled the connector and the pos battery lead from the esc.

That's when I noticed the female pins in the connector were wore out so the male pins were barely making contact in them. Also found that the pos battery lead from the esc was almost cooked in half except for a few remaining strands about halfway between the connector and esc.

Guessing​ power arcing across the loose connection cooked the wire and the resistance from all the power going through those few strands was making the esc get hotter than usual. Exactly what happened and in what order I'm not sure

What I really don't understand is why the esc was noticeably hotter but the wires weren't.

Probably because the wires are pretty small to be running 3s power and combined with a crappy jst connector they always got pretty hot so it wasn't as noticeable as the extra heat in the esc was

MSH P380/Lynx'd Mini Protos×3/Chase 360/Trex 450/180cfx/230s/SK540's,YGE,MKS,KST, Xnova,Scorpion,Switch,RJX/UMX Pitts/Valiant 1.3/RochobbyMX

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