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HelicopterAntiques or Out of Business › Picking up a competitor ?'s
05-20-2017 08:53 PM  5 months agoPost 1
DeeBee123

rrNovice

Rossville, GA

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In the above photo you can see a modern looking anti- rotation bracket running to the swash. Anyone know if this is custom or a manufactured upgrade? Who from?

Has a long stroke Roy d head OS .61
Looks to have an all metal head and auto gear.
I will likely have to modify the tail drive / gearbox . Would love to go to a tt/ running straight off the side of the main gear setup.

Picking it and basically a full nitro accessory kit (starter, glow charger, fuel transfer pump, flight box ,etc.) up this after noon .

Hoping to get it up to fully running condition as it looks like the handful of true antique enthusasists already have most of what they need.

Other than an old shuttle which I let a friend trade me out of before rebuilding, this will be my first antique nitro bird.
I believe I can manage the carb tuning as I have plenty of experience with gas 2t motors from weed whackers right on up. Seems like these nitro motors like to run quite rich on the main needle, just lean enough to run smooth with an occasional bit of four stroking at light load.

Seems like their isn't a ton of info still out there, found vhrc, MP heli, and a few other sites , but most of the useful info has come from the forums , especially here.

An help ,advice, tips, or knowledge that you guys can share with me would be greatly appreciated.

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05-20-2017 09:11 PM  5 months agoPost 2
R.J.

rrVeteran

SF bay area, CA USA

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The anti-rotation bracket on your heli is homemade.

More Competitor info here:
http://www.vrhc.co.uk/rc%20helicopt.../Competitor.htm

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05-21-2017 03:43 AM  5 months agoPost 3
DeeBee123

rrNovice

Rossville, GA

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OK picked up the heli and brough it home , engine was a bit stiff but thankfully only due to old gummy oil residue. Cleaned it up and all is well, the piston barely had any carbon on it ring looked new .

The engine is a vintage HP gold cup with a Mack's heliball. I can't find carb instructions as it is a HP square carb with the flat idle mixture adjustment against the carb body and under the high speed needle. I found square HP carbs with totally different needle setup and "h and b ? Carb with a similar needle arrangement but no idle stop screw.
If anyone might possibly be able to ID it I can post some pics. I mainly need to default idle mixture and HI speed needle positions.
EDIT: carb is a vintage rotomix and of HP design and manufacture that makes this motor a true vintage and dates it to within a couple years. It was tested to 1.6hp with 5% nitro , rated at 2hp with a Max of 20% Nitro.

I realize that the competitor had about 50% hirobo parts I wonder this one might actually have been born as a hirobo. The flybar cage is Hirobo, the grips, the Tank Hirobo, and the clutch a two shoe (not 3) hirobo clutch.

I have a 6 channel micro receiver, esky piezoelectric rate gyro and 5 amp bec to use with a 3s 2200 lipo. I could go with a smaller 2s but I will need to replace the weight of an old school reciever, dry cell AA batteries and case, as well as the mechanical gyro.

It does still have the stock wire drive on the tail. I need any help or info I can get on modding to use a custom tt.

Before I do any flying I want to at least run the wire through a cf or metal tube of a slightly larger diameter than the wire and possibly a thicker stronger wire. This should only require drilling out the plywood supports to fit the guide tube and maybe drilling the drive and tail boxes connector to fit a larger wire as was suggested above.
Ideally I want the tail drive strong enough to use a HH mode if I choose to.

The blades on it seem decent and I have an unfinished set of period correct tail blades.
Can anyone tell me what kind of main blades I would be best to use. I want to keep the stability and auto capability of the vintage blades, but I am not looking to build ,weight and finish a set of woodies. I believe these are 600mm blades

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05-21-2017 04:54 AM  5 months agoPost 4
slickporsche

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American/Philippines

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DeeBee123

Post some pics of the carb! It sounds like a "Perry Carb". Also you cannot run a heading hold gyro with a wire tail drive. Use the old gyro if it is in reasonable condition, as they work just fine, and it will give you an idea of what it was like to fly back in the day. If you use micro equipment, you will end up tail heavy. You will need belt drive or shaft if you want to run HH Gyro.

As to blades, I would run carbon FAI blades. They will drastically improve the flight of this heli. First time I tried glass blades was the last time I ever used Woodies, and have never looked back. I hate woodies! I spent many years building the darn things, and get them done properly, but it is too much work.

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05-21-2017 06:56 AM  5 months agoPost 5
DeeBee123

rrNovice

Rossville, GA

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I was able to ID the carb it is a HP rotomix and works very similar to the perry.
Without trying to find the article again I believe the carb dates this engine to the early 80'S. The serno. Of the engine is engraved on the mounting tab
2 1741

This engine shows nearly no signs of use looks to me like someone fired it up once, left the fuel/oil in it and called it a day. There was no internal corrosion although the carb , wrist pin and crank were all stiff with a small amount of gum or varnish.

Thanks for the info.

Quick question when going to carbon blades do I go to spacers in place of the plastic root supports or do I use the supports minus the second bolt.

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05-22-2017 01:09 AM  5 months agoPost 6
slickporsche

rrVeteran

American/Philippines

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DeeBee123

What head and blade grips does this machine have?? What is the measurement on the blade grips for blade thickness? pics?

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05-22-2017 04:38 AM  5 months agoPost 7
DeeBee123

rrNovice

Rossville, GA

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It's has what I believe to be the single dampened GMP pro head with overslung all metal Hirobo labeled flybar cage.
Metal Grips and plastic root supports are labeled Hirobo as well.
Current blades are 8mm thick wood only and about 12mm thick including the plastic root supports.

Current blades are vintage woodies 23" or 585mm bolt hole to tip and right at 598mm root to tip.
I believe it uses 4mm bolts for the blades.

I have got the motor lined out and have to go get some low nitro methanol to run it in on the bench.

Amazingly enough an empty half gallon of BIX stripper (methyl alcohol "methanol", Toluene and Acetone) with a hand cranked fuel pump was included in the field box. By this I am gonna guess early hobbyists used BIX stripper along with most likely castor oil, both found locally, to run old school glow engines.
Probably easier on the engines than high nitro fuel but man what a gummy mess that castor oil can be. Makes me happy that the included vintage HP .61 shows little to no running.......neither the dykes L ring ,nor the cylinder wall look to have been run in, although a very small amount of carbon was on top of some of the piston and less than 1/2 of the head.

We got it good these days 30-40 years ago very few people had access to the goods and/or money to fly a heli. Many had to spend thousands in today's money and hours upon hours setting manual radio pots, one sided Expo and rates through servo horns, building blades, etc. just to be able to hover around in rate mode and possibly pull some of today's full scale type stunts. Although I bet a heli properly set up with throttle/cyclic to rudder mix and rate mode was a bit easier to learn basic turns on due to the tail following the heli around similar to a plank, versus today's super small for tail support only find and HH gyros that will fly up, down, sideways and backwards at full speed/ pitch and never loose a degree.
I wonder if head hold gyros got the same "welcome" from then veteran pilots as auto level (safe mode, 6 axis gyro, or whatever you call it.)

Enough babbling from me.

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