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HelicopterGasser Model RC HelicoptersOther › Radikal G20 Canopy / Parts
03-10-2017 12:55 AM  6 months agoPost 1
bclark

rrNewbie

Johnston, South Carolina, USA

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Hi, can someone help me with locating a Radikal G20 canopy and the front mounting hardware. Just purchased a heli and am in need of one.

Also if anyone is still messing with these helis, where is the best source for parts. I need a few other things as well.

Thanks, Bill

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03-10-2017 02:00 PM  6 months agoPost 2
RM3

rrElite Veteran

Killeen, Texas - USA

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Heli-world still sells some parts (what they have in stock)...

Other parts such as the tail rotor can be swapped for an Align 600 unit as can the main rotor and swash (you may need to re-drill the jesusbolt hole).

What items do you need?

showing a preference will only get you into trouble, 90% of everything is crap...

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03-10-2017 02:29 PM  6 months agoPost 3
bclark

rrNewbie

Johnston, South Carolina, USA

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I need a canopy and the front mounting hardware for the canopy and the heli.
Tail drive gear.
I also need replacement drive lugs for the heli world pull start if available. They are rounded off and it slips sometimes.

That would be a good start.

It is running but is in need of some fixing up.

Thanks, Bill

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03-10-2017 05:07 PM  6 months agoPost 4
RM3

rrElite Veteran

Killeen, Texas - USA

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I also need replacement drive lugs for the heli world pull start if available. They are rounded off and it slips sometimes.
DavesDiscount Motors has these parts... all sorts of starters/parts for Zenoah engine... get many of my parts from there for mine.

http://www.davesmotors.com/1160-752...PUH-Pulley.html
http://www.davesmotors.com/ddm-meta...cy-engines.html
http://www.davesmotors.com/zenoah-5...g-07323-14.html

showing a preference will only get you into trouble, 90% of everything is crap...

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03-10-2017 06:07 PM  6 months agoPost 5
oldfart

rrProfessor

Vancouver, Canada

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I would try sending an e-mail here:

orders@leisuretech.ca

They still have a fair amount of Century parts.

Phil

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03-11-2017 12:24 AM  6 months agoPost 6
bclark

rrNewbie

Johnston, South Carolina, USA

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My starter adapter that goes on the motor doesn`t look like Dave`s. It is longer so it reaches further away from the motor.
The previous owner said he just put the pull start on. I don`t know if it was new or used. As bad as the lugs look, I would say it was used.
Anyway, I went out today to do some more testing on repairs, and the starter has all but quit. It also doesn`t look like the lugs are engaging deep enough.
The sticker on the engine says G200PU. I didn`t see that engine listed on Dave`s site.

Is anyone familiar with this engine and what I need?

I have a lot of wrinkles to iron out, but I have to get the starter fixed first. My glow starter won`t crank it.

PS: The muffler came loose today! So another repair. Are gaskets used on it or just hi temp silicone?

Thanks for helping, Bill.

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03-11-2017 05:59 PM  6 months agoPost 7
RM3

rrElite Veteran

Killeen, Texas - USA

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If you need specific engine parts go to Advantage Hobby online
http://www.advantagehobby.com/?cat=...ine_brandid=303

they have the 20cc engine parts as well as others

Daves used to carry stuff for the 20cc but closed out on them a few months ago. But all the starter component links still work with the little 20cc pull start... if the starter pawl on the engine looks to be too short, you can add a washer to it to extend it a bit more. otherwise your starter may need to have the pawls on both ends replaced.

as far as te muffler, I have tried both silicone and gaskets, copper and the stock unit... the copper was really good as it transfered heat away from the exhaust port and lowered engine temps...

the key to a good seal there is to make sure both mating surfaces are perfectly flat... if they are not a leak will result despite silicone or a soft copper gasket.

the threads on the mounting bolts must be clean (no oil residue)... bring te engine up to temp, then tighten while its hot.

I have worked quite a bit with the 20cc engine in the Radikal (see my gallery)
as well as have others here on RR... so dont hesitate to ask any questions should you have some.

showing a preference will only get you into trouble, 90% of everything is crap...

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03-11-2017 11:51 PM  6 months agoPost 8
bclark

rrNewbie

Johnston, South Carolina, USA

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RM3, Thanks for the info. You have already been generous with the help!

On the starter pulley, I saw on the Advantage site a pulley for a G23 that looked like mine except it was shorter. there was a spacer right beside it on the page that had no description. it looks like if you put the two together that would be what I need. Are you familiar with this?
How can I learn what will work on my engine that's listed for another?

On the exhaust gasket, my muffler has a adapter plate between the engine and the muffler. Is this the norm, and where did you get the gaskets?

One more thing that I thought of, what spark plug should I be running? It has a Champion Y82 in it now.

Thank you again for all the information!

Bill

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03-12-2017 06:20 AM  6 months agoPost 9
RM3

rrElite Veteran

Killeen, Texas - USA

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the G20 engine is designed to use the Y82 spark plug specifically... you can use another plug (like on the G23) BUT you have to change the plug boot from the CDI (the y82 uses a smaller head) and add a spark plug spacer otherwise the piston will come too close to the electrode is some cases. So its best to just stick with the Y82, they work just fine.

yes spacers are sometimes needed as the gap between the engine and pull start can vary thus requiring an extension (like when using a removable pull start or the frame onto which the engine mounts may be thicker)

As for exhaust items, anything that fits the G23 will also work with the 20 as they share the shame exhaust bolt spacing and bolt size/thread...

Sounds like your running a Hatori type muffler? the V2 century muffler does not need any adapter plate... Daves does sell "headers" that improve the performance of the heli type and X-can box mufflers, and they fit between the muffler and the exhaust using longer bolts.

showing a preference will only get you into trouble, 90% of everything is crap...

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03-18-2017 01:13 AM  6 months agoPost 10
bclark

rrNewbie

Johnston, South Carolina, USA

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Went out for another test drive today with the Radikal. Still waiting on pull start parts, so I used my 20v drill. It worked, although I think it will eventually tear up the drill.
So I worked on tuning. Got it flying around and it seemed to run ok. It does tend to die going from idle to increasing throttle. Seemed to get better when I leaned the low needle a little.
After about a half tank of gas I noticed the tail shake coming back. One thing I found was the belt was loose . I have tightened it three times since I have been working with it. The tail box keeps moving, I guess from a vibration.
Is this an issue with this heli?
The other problem I found was the main gear isn`t freewheeling. It is quite snug to turn. It has definitely tightened up since I have been running the heli.

Any input will be welcome.

Thanks, Bill

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03-18-2017 01:45 AM  6 months agoPost 11
Gearhead

rrMaster

Vt

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Bill C,, if this helps>>,, I don't think you know of the other Bill M that helped designed the Radikal line, he said that his tests has shown that the ZG20 Mid Range ran best with a Spark Plug Gap of .018"

check your plug, set gap, fly and tune.. my plug was set from the factory at .025

I hope this helps

Jim
Buzz Buzz Buzz

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03-18-2017 03:11 AM  6 months agoPost 12
RM3

rrElite Veteran

Killeen, Texas - USA

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ah yes the infamous tail belt issue. This is one that has several solutions to it. You can try to use a medium sandpaper to remove the gloss from the aluminum tail boom that contacts the inside of the mount... then wrap the boom end with 1 layer of 1000 grit sandpaper as well to essentially give it a grippy surface that is bigger as well so that the mount does not bottom out on it before effectively grabbing it.

Now the needles need to be set up so that going from idle to full throttle is clean and does not result in the engine dying or hestitation. In idle the carbs butterfly should be open by about the thickness of a creditcard. It should also quit the moment you fully close it.

A bench test setup with a Prop (14X6 is best) is very effective at getting initial needle settings for both idle and wide open throttle that end up very close to the final setpoint.

keep in mind that tail shake is closely tied to engine smoothness and stability as well as belt tension... if the belt is too tight it will also cause issues so dont over tighten it either.

The main gear should spin easily, if it doesnt, something is binding, the gear mesh may be too tight between it and the pinion block or tail drive or the main shaft bearings are no longer in good condition, the pinion block as well must be set up right and not be binding up due to being overtightened. A tail belt that is too tight will also result in a binding tail gear drive and extra load on the main gear train. best to check all bearings in the drive train to be sure. Any bearings that feel notchy must be replaced. The plastic pinion block is a known weakness as tightening it can result in crushing the clutch bell bearing and causing binding. So it must be setup just right to avoid significant issues. I got around that issue with a custom aluminum pinion block.

here is a vid showing my setup for engine testing...

Watch at YouTube

showing a preference will only get you into trouble, 90% of everything is crap...

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03-23-2017 01:30 AM  6 months agoPost 13
bclark

rrNewbie

Johnston, South Carolina, USA

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I hovered about 4 minutes Sunday and set it down to adjust carb a little. As soon as throttle was raised, it shut off. I found the main gear tight to turn again, so I quit with it for the day. The gear was tight vertically to install when I got the heli. I cut down the brass washer a little, but I guess not enough. Is this a common problem as well? Also, I still don`t have enough backlash on the gear to suit me. The pinion blocks are all the way forward in the slots now.

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03-23-2017 02:15 PM  6 months agoPost 14
RM3

rrElite Veteran

Killeen, Texas - USA

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I have never had an issue with a lack of vertical play in the main shaft... if anything trying to get all the extra play out is what resulted in the whole thrust bearing / split collar issue a while back. I would remove the main shaft and main gear assembly (main gear, tail drive, OWB etc) and check that it is indeed assembled correctly with no extra parts (or missing parts) and ensure that your bearing block are installed correctly (not upside down). Also check the upper and lower main shaft bearing blocks to check both the bearings and their position, they should be fully seated in the blocks and the bearings should be smooth, clean and within spec.

locate a manual for the radikal if you can, it will be a big help in determining if it assembled correctly.

In the three radikals I have, I have never had any of the pinion blocks fully forward or backward in the slots... and thats testing with a 13, 14 and 16 tooth pinion.

showing a preference will only get you into trouble, 90% of everything is crap...

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04-11-2017 12:02 PM  5 months agoPost 15
bclark

rrNewbie

Johnston, South Carolina, USA

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Pinion block

I removed the pinion block for inspection. Found a notchy brg. When reinstalling the pinion block, I also loosened the motor. Once I tightened everything, the mainshaft was tight to turn. The gears had backlash, so I started working with the pinion block. Eventually, I found that it is a vertical end play problem with the pinion block. If I pry upwards on the clutch bell and tighten the screws, it is almost ok. It feels the best since I have been messing with it. But it seems that it may need some more clearance. Is there something that might not be assembled correctly on the motor?

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04-11-2017 02:24 PM  5 months agoPost 16
RM3

rrElite Veteran

Killeen, Texas - USA

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Is there something that might not be assembled correctly on the motor?
actually yes...

in this case if the motor/clutch shoe is rubbing the upper inside of the clutch bell thereby requiring you to pull up on the pinion block... then you have to remove the clutch shoe from the fan hub... the kit came with two narrow brass washers that served as spacers that set the distance between the clutch shoe and fan hub, which in turn affected the clearance between it and the clutch bell. by removing one (or two) of these washers you can reduce the height of the assembly. That should give you the required clearance.

the other rare issue may be that the fan hub is not seated all the way onto the motor output shaft, but this is unlikely as you would have noticed significant wobbling here.

the rarest issue I have come across is the fan hub not threaded all the way in OR buildup of threadlock compound keeping the clutch from fully seating into the hub.

showing a preference will only get you into trouble, 90% of everything is crap...

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04-12-2017 10:32 PM  5 months agoPost 17
Gearhead

rrMaster

Vt

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I removed the pinion block for inspection. Found a notchy brg
I had a bearing go bad just setting on the bench, the front block was all assembled yet was not installed in the frame, and the bearing under the Hex Cup went bad just setting there for a few months

Jim
Buzz Buzz Buzz

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05-02-2017 09:35 PM  4 months agoPost 18
main rotor

rrNovice

Pomona NY USA

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check helifreak someone just listed one complete -receiver for 300 in the fuel heli section

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05-03-2017 12:50 AM  4 months agoPost 19
bclark

rrNewbie

Johnston, South Carolina, USA

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Thanks for the replies.
I removed a shim last week and I think that problem is solved.
Got it back together after installing new tail drive gear (still wobbles but not as bad), removed clutch shim, plate sanded muffler and milled muffler adapter, sanded tail housing halves for better grip on boom. Replaced starter drive on recoil and welded and remachined dogs on starter hub on motor.
Went out for a test hover Saturday with high hopes of getting engine tuned and seeing the other issues fixed! I worked with the high needle until I felt it was close.
It still has a lot of vibes in it. The higher the headspeed the smoother it is. It is quite ugly while spooling up! I thought I was making some headway and then the muffler came loose. The adapter came loose from the engine. So that was it for Saturday evening!
I`m starting to get aggravated with it, and having to dig for parts on top of that.
As for the one up for sale, I just can`t make myself buy another one.
I really want to get into the gassers, but with something more modern and with parts available.

Thanks for the help!

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