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HelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters Docs  MIL Mi-8
03-09-2017 05:20 AM  6 months agoPost 41
goodhunting

rrApprentice

Slovenia ... somewhere in Europe

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Peter

check HeliTech
https://derblattschmied.com/epages/...l/5_Blatt/840mm

they do have these listed yet no picture at their site. Email them, Kai is usually fast to respond.

Klem

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03-09-2017 07:26 AM  6 months agoPost 42
pkotatko

rrNovice

Prague, Czech Republic

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Yes, Kai is making these blades for as. Three sets are in order, so contact him ASAP and he can make one more set for you.

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03-22-2017 02:48 AM  6 months agoPost 43
Peter WalesrrElite Veteran - Orlando Fl - My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

I asked Michael how much the mechanics were, and was very pleasantly surprised at the price. When I looked closely at them the whole arrangement was so simple, it would be much easier than using the old ones from the 145. I persuaded him to sell me a set even though they were not fully tested yet. After waiting for a while the mechanics arrived and then I had to go through them to see which Goblin parts were needed to complete the build. Eventually some of them arrived and I could get started on the assembly. First up was building the Goblin 3 blade hub and blade holders and fitting it to the custom gearbox

The gearbox was already pinned to the tail tube and the short drive shaft cut to size and fitted with Align couplers.

Next I had to cut a 25mm hole in the top of the fin to take the gear box. That meant nearly cutting all of the top out, but there was about 1mm left

The scale gear box looks great snugged down, but it comes out for the next part.

Put it all to one side and pick up the tail tube with the drive shaft already installed. Slide the 45 degree gear box on and tighten up the clamp. Then I had to remove a screw, drill a 2.5mm hole through the tube through the screw hole and replace the screw. This locked the angle gear box in place. Then clip on the pre built pushrod.

The next step was to fit the tail servo to the servo mounting brackets and slide them on the tail tube. Don't worry about the split servo lead, I'll explain that later

The pivot at the rear has to be in an exact place with the servo arm at right angles to the servo and then the clamps are tightened down. Then a 2.5 mm hole is drilled through the center screw hole. This locates the servo in the perfect position

Now the servo comes off and the tail tube is slid into the tail boom with the push rod. The hole for the push rod needed a little sanding to allow the thick rod to go through. Its the bottom eye shaped hole.

Now the drive shaft can be inserted into the tail gear box and the gear box pushed into the tail boom. Couple up the push rod and check it's free to move.

Now the servo can be slid on the tail tube and located over the hole I drilled, clamps tightened and a locking screw fitted.

Now comes the really clever bit. The whole tail drive train is rigid but nothing is fixed down. The same clamp and locking screw arrangement is used on the mechanics and the tail tube, and the mechanics are bolted to the woodwork, or at least, they will be when I get the rest of the parts and I can finish the mechanics assembly. So now everything in the tail drive is rigid and wont move. I like it and it is that arrangement which made me discard the intermediate gear box and dog bone couplers which I was going to use.

Now for a little educating. The tube is actually a torque tube. The inside piece is a drive shaft. For some reason we have been calling the drive shaft the torque tube and retaining the name tail boom on a pod and boom heli. Hence the above references to tail boom, the fiber glass piece of the helicopter tail, the tube, the torque tube fixed at each end and supporting the intermediate gear box and hence the tail rotor gear box, and the driveshafts, all the way down the middle, transmitting the rotating force. Here endeth the lesson

Peter Wales
http://scalehelicopters.org

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03-22-2017 04:23 AM  6 months agoPost 44
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Very nice setup Peter! The mechs look to be very well designed and engineered. I have to say that the only thing I'm not a fan of is the "Z" Op rod with end links at each end for the TR pitch slider. They tend to (for lack of better terms) flop/squirm when under load. You may not have this issue if the rod runs through a slot in the tail fin, as that would lend it more support. Let me know if you find this to be the case.
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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03-22-2017 04:30 AM  6 months agoPost 45
pkotatko

rrNovice

Prague, Czech Republic

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Michael did some test flights yesterday and tail have no problems. The "Z' link is obviously strong enough.

Petr

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03-22-2017 01:24 PM  6 months agoPost 46
JuanRodriguez

rrProfessor

The Villages, Florida

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Peter W,

I'm not into scale but I sure do like to follow your write ups....

Nice Job !

Been there, done that and old enough to know better.....

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03-22-2017 02:15 PM  6 months agoPost 47
Peter Wales

rrElite Veteran

Orlando Fl

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Thanks Juan, this is an easy one to write up as its such a nice build. Well thought out and everything that is difficult to do is already done.

It's going to get trickier when I start to add more scale details, as there is already so much on there, everything I add will be small.

Barry I don't get the feeling that the z bent push rod is going to do anything untoward. I don't like it as it will have to come out of the tail cover, but before I can even consider changing it I have to get the thing flying. That can be done without fitting the tail cover. Then I will have a look at it but frankly, from the rest of the model, I will probably find that the z bend supplied is the best solution. They seem to have thought of everything and if Michael has successfully flown his model, it must work.

Peter Wales
http://scalehelicopters.org

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03-23-2017 03:22 AM  6 months agoPost 48
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Hi Peter, I really like the heli and I didn't mean to suggest that the Z Op rod wasn't strong enough. Only that they have a tendency to rotate about the axis of the ball when under load. I had a very similar set up in another heli and the tail would hunt. I switched to a straight link and the issue went away. It's good that you aren't having this issue. I would guess that it's because you're running a very short ball at the bell crank, which limits the amount that the link can rotate.
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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03-23-2017 01:36 PM  6 months agoPost 49
aashu

rrKey Veteran

scotch plains, NJ

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great thread

Is this kit ever going to be available in states ?

Great to see something very different.

Garden State, NJ

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03-23-2017 04:44 PM  6 months agoPost 50
pkotatko

rrNovice

Prague, Czech Republic

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No, this kit must be ordered from Europe.

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03-23-2017 09:56 PM  6 months agoPost 51
pkotatko

rrNovice

Prague, Czech Republic

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One of the maiden flights. Sory for low quality video.

Watch at YouTube

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03-23-2017 11:00 PM  6 months agoPost 52
Peter Wales

rrElite Veteran

Orlando Fl

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Isn't that sweet? Nice and smooth and calm. I cant wait to get mine in the air.

If you want one of these kits, they will take paypal and ship fast, Shipping will probably cost you the same as if you were shipping across the US

Peter Wales
http://scalehelicopters.org

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03-24-2017 01:56 AM  6 months agoPost 53
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Nice flying machine... It's definitely on my short list.
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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03-24-2017 03:22 AM  6 months agoPost 54
rcheli808

rrApprentice

Mililani,Hi-USA

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I agree...what a nice complete quality project...!
Congratulations Petr...

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04-01-2017 09:37 PM  5 months agoPost 55
Peter WalesrrElite Veteran - Orlando Fl - My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

The next stage was very time consuming and expensive. I bought and set up all the electronics in one of the most comprehensive control systems I have ever put together.

I think some explanation is required. I bought the servos, but at the top of the sales page it said be sure your power supply is up to par as these servos suck up the power and will cause glitches. So I invested in a CB200 power box for the Jeti. It came with a remote switch so I could turn the system on from the transmitter and 2 3 channel receivers. The idea of the system, once it is on, it that the receivers take the signal from the transmitter and feed it to the high power servo outputs. This was not what I needed, so one of the receivers was disconnected from the CB200 data input and connected to a servo output, just to provide it with power. Then a single wire UDI output went to the V-bar input. Another 2 core wire went there as well to provide separate power and ground, just in case. Now I had good outputs to the servos from the V-bar, but it was not going to be able to provide the necessary power. So, I split the signal wire from the servo and found another servo plug to put it into. That got plugged into the V-bar servo output. The power connector from the servo now went into the CB200, so now I have 40 amps of power capability from the CB200 available to the servos, and no load on the receiver or V-bar. I have to thank James at Esprit, Ron at Mikado and mainly Sandy Jaffe for their help in figuring most of this out.

The blades finally arrived and got fitted. I had to press the 4mm ferrules out and fit the 5mm ones, and then do the tracking. Surprisingly 2 blades were 1 turn out, all the others spot on, so they all got numbered.

Tomorrow I will finish the set up of the v-bar Neo and put my expo and pitch curves in, and then await the pleasure of helidirect, to supply me with a new set of batteries. My 6s 5000's have been purloined for use in Marcus's 407. Then I have to balance it and that will not be a small job. Meanwhile the 3D printer is thundering away making turbines for the inlets and generators for the APU. I must finish the design for the winch, but none of that will stop the first test hover. I wish those b@stards at Soloshot would get their fingers out and deliver what they promised months ago!

Peter Wales
http://scalehelicopters.org

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04-02-2017 01:10 AM  5 months agoPost 56
TailKiller

rrApprentice

Panama City, FL

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AWESOME!!

,Dennis
http://pcrcheliclub.com/
700 Astar Super Scale T-600 Bell 206 Trex 600 Naza H DX8

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04-02-2017 02:50 AM  5 months agoPost 57
chopper37

rrVeteran

NJ and Long Island

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That's amazing can't wait to see it in a hover

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04-08-2017 09:16 PM  5 months agoPost 58
Peter WalesrrElite Veteran - Orlando Fl - My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

It's all done and I threw some batteries in there (literally) and it balanced just right, so it was time for a hover. Marcus was there with his trusty I-phone camera and not sufficient memory for all of it so it ends a bit abruptly, but I can assure you I did not leave the helicopter up in the air.

Watch at YouTube

The reason the top was not on was that when I spooled it up, the low pitch was so low the pitch arms were hitting the doghouse. When I reprogrammed the pitch curve, the push rods just cleared the dog house nicely.

Considering it was its first flight, it inspired enough confidence for me to go into FF with it. I like this heli!

Now for paint....

Peter Wales
http://scalehelicopters.org

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04-08-2017 11:38 PM  5 months agoPost 59
chopper37

rrVeteran

NJ and Long Island

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Congrats there Peter, very realalistic love it!!

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04-09-2017 02:07 AM  5 months agoPost 60
TailKiller

rrApprentice

Panama City, FL

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Fly's very nice. Very impressive, great work.

,Dennis
http://pcrcheliclub.com/
700 Astar Super Scale T-600 Bell 206 Trex 600 Naza H DX8

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