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HelicopterHIROBOHirobo Freya › EX2 SWM SSZ-111 to SSL FBL
12-23-2016 03:36 AM  6 months agoPost 1
iyoy

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Bacolod City, Philippines

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Hi,

I have the metal OP SSZ-111 head. I intend to stay with nitro for now but would like to attempt to convert my EX2 SWM to FBL. RCJapan sells the SSL-11 yoke (25mm shorter) for $90. What other parts do I need to convert? I read something about requiring a 135 degree swashplate. I have a 120 degree on mine.

Also, which FBL unit would you suggest? I fly Futaba and am currently using Microbeast Plus on my TRexs.

Thanks.

iyoy

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12-23-2016 04:16 PM  6 months agoPost 2
NIKOS PAPISTAS

Senior Heliman

KOZANI-GREECE

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Hi.For best results my opinion is to change the head with the new one ssl-ii and the swash plate with the new one from eagle 3 wc (800 size heli new).If you don't want to you need to change the yoke from ssl-2.....keep the blade grip and buy and the the washout arm from ssl-2.
For fbl unit i fly with vbar and futaba 750.My opinion is futaba 750.For me its the best choice.

Hirobo SDX D3 Fbl - ALIGN T-REX 700 F3C V3 FL HEAD-ALIGN T-REX 500 DFC

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12-23-2016 11:33 PM  6 months agoPost 3
iyoy

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Bacolod City, Philippines

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Nikos

"Hi.For best results my opinion is to change the head with the new one ssl-ii and the swash plate with the new one from eagle 3 wc (800 size heli new).If you don't want to you need to change the yoke from ssl-2.....keep the blade grip and buy and the the washout arm from ssl-2.
For fbl unit i fly with vbar and futaba 750.My opinion is futaba 750.For me its the best choice."

Please correct me with the part numbers if there is something incorrect or missing. So I get the yoke 0414-571, pitch arm pair 0414-573, EX2 swashplate 135 degrees, 2522-044 strengthened 2mm adjust rods M2x55 to mechanically convert to FBL using my existing grips?

Then I will get the 750. BTW, this is still for a nitro EX2 with OS 91 SZH.

iyoy

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12-24-2016 12:46 AM  6 months agoPost 4
iyoy

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Bacolod City, Philippines

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Transmitter

Nikos,

I forgot to mention, for my EX2 I am currently using Futaba R617FS receiver and 14MZ. I also bought a Futaba 14SG so I have more updated programming and I use this for my electric TRex Dominator 500L, 550L and 700L TOP. All are using BeastX Plus. My question is, which Tx and Rx should I use for the Freya EX2 SWM .91 nitro if I convert to SSL and CGY750?

iyoy

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12-24-2016 06:06 AM  6 months agoPost 5
JLF92677

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Southern California

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Iyoy,

If you are going to use CGY750, I would suggest using an S.Bus receiver. I would suggest as first choice to use your 14SG along with R7003SB receiver and as second choice 14MZ with R6303SB receiver. My preference would be the 14SG with R7003SB because of telemetry capability.

Joe

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12-24-2016 07:52 AM  6 months agoPost 6
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KOZANI-GREECE

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Hi.
The Futaba 750 he play ONLY SBUS.14SG with sbus receiver it's best choice.
If you want to use the 14mz you need one 6008sb futaba receiver.

Hirobo SDX D3 Fbl - ALIGN T-REX 700 F3C V3 FL HEAD-ALIGN T-REX 500 DFC

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12-24-2016 08:10 AM  6 months agoPost 7
NIKOS PAPISTAS

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KOZANI-GREECE

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Hi.
This is the PDF manual from New eagle 3 wc with ssl-II head.
In last page you see the codes parts number.
https://www.hirobo.co.jp/group/mode...jm2-0307903.pdf
I know that the head is expensive but it's the best way to make the conversion it's to buy new.The only thing that maybe it's same with your old ssz-3 head that you have it's maybe the blade grip....maybe.
Anyway...
Be careful.....if you buy new the head don't forget to buy and the pitch rod because the head he don't have it into the head box.
Check from manual if it's same with your part the other from ssl-2 etc main must.....blade grip .....spindle....dumper head especially the washout arm with plastic radius arm.

Hirobo SDX D3 Fbl - ALIGN T-REX 700 F3C V3 FL HEAD-ALIGN T-REX 500 DFC

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12-24-2016 11:56 AM  6 months agoPost 8
iyoy

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Bacolod City, Philippines

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Tx/ Rx

Thanks for the quick replies guys. I have the 14SG and R7008SB. I think this should work fine with the CGY750. I also spoke with my good friends at Hirobo Headquarters and thanks to Mr Kobayashi, it looks like I'm going to get a good deal on the acquisition of parts. To this effect, the purchase of the SSL-II rotor-head assembly 0414-578 by itself will cost me an additional US $200 more than the cost of the other bits and pieces SSL-II yoke 0414-571, 2 pcs ELS 14 pitch arm 0414-573 required to convert my existing SSZ-III to a hybrid SSL. The rest of the parts like the EX 135 degrees swashplate 0414-576 and the strengthened 2mm adjust rod M2x55 2522-044 will be a common requirement anyway. So the first question is, should I even bother upgrading my SSZ-III to a hybrid SSL or should I just go for the SSL-II assembly for US $200 more?

Another question is regarding 0414-431 E3 SWM elevator lever and 0414-434 E3 SWM elevator arm. Will I be requiring these parts? I will try to post pics of my EX2 SWM and SSZ-III head for reference.

My last comment is regarding the newly released kit 0414-949 FREYA Evolution OP SWM SSL-II R/H. It seems I can get a really good deal on one and for about twice what it would cost me to convert the EX2 with the 0414-578 SSL-II Rotorhead assembly, I can actually just go and buy myself a kit!

Merry Christmas guys!

iyoy

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12-24-2016 12:34 PM  6 months agoPost 9
NIKOS PAPISTAS

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KOZANI-GREECE

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Hi.
The head its something that he dont have to do with other parts like elev arm and ail arm.
You need to change the swash because i see in your pics that you have the old one.The new one he have more space from under to have more cyclic before the swash stuck in main must in full ail-elev stick move.
Like i said and before my opinion is the head to replace with new one ssl-ii and dont make the old one convert to ssl.

Hirobo SDX D3 Fbl - ALIGN T-REX 700 F3C V3 FL HEAD-ALIGN T-REX 500 DFC

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12-24-2016 01:54 PM  6 months agoPost 10
iyoy

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Bacolod City, Philippines

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0414-434

On the E3 SWM, this part 0414-434 E3 SWM elevator arm is what holds the swashplate in front. This is in turn connected to 0414-431 E3 SWM elevator lever. If I understand correctly, you are saying these parts aren't required for the EX2 SWM to convert to the 0414-576 swashplate? The old EX2 SWM in the photo has a radius stay in the rear. I need to retain this for the new swashplate correct?

iyoy

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12-24-2016 02:47 PM  6 months agoPost 11
iyoy

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Bacolod City, Philippines

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E3 SWM WC SSL-II EP Manual

Here are some relevant pages from the manual:

iyoy

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12-24-2016 03:29 PM  6 months agoPost 12
NIKOS PAPISTAS

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KOZANI-GREECE

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Hi.
The radius stay he dont required.Also he dont required the elev arm etc.
You need only from swash plate and above.Nothing else.If you want to put radius stay in the back from swash check the metal one (i dont remember the code.

Hirobo SDX D3 Fbl - ALIGN T-REX 700 F3C V3 FL HEAD-ALIGN T-REX 500 DFC

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12-24-2016 09:20 PM  6 months agoPost 13
iyoy

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Bacolod City, Philippines

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Radius arm stay

Hi Nikos,

Okay I will look again at the heli when I get home. No problem with the radius arm stay as you can see in the photos, I have the part installed. It is a metal OP so I will keep it installed as long as there is no mechanical interference. I will keep you updated. Thanks!

iyoy

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01-29-2017 06:30 AM  4 months agoPost 14
Bugcatcher

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Perth, Australia

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Hi Ivoy,

Just remember that the Freya is only 120deg not 135deg like the Eagle, D3 and SDX. The elevator linkage shown will not work for the Freya.

Personally I would if you can afford it, buy the complete SSL-II head. The blade grips on your Freya are the shorter versions I think, (need to cross check manuals) used on the D3 V1 or SSZ-4 head. SSZ-5, SSL, SSL-II use different blade grips and along with it a different spindle. You will need 0414-460 as used on the SDX and D3V1. Plus any bearings, shims, o-rings, spacers etc. It will all add up plus the radius block assembly listed in next post.

Personally I would not worry about changing the swash plate. All it does is give you a little more resolution by moving the balls in slightly. I have worked out the geometry and differences and would not worry unless it's primary competition heli.

On another inspection, you actually cannot use the new swash plate anyway as it only has 135deg on it. No option for 120deg. Keep the one you have, if you need a new one, use the swash plate from the D3. Same except with either 120deg or 135deg. Still use 120deg just better for future use.

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01-29-2017 06:56 AM  4 months agoPost 15
Bugcatcher

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Perth, Australia

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If you can buy a new Freya with SSL-II head for good price then that may be the best way to go.

I have asked to see a manual for it for comparison to the Eagle SSL-II.

If you convert you will also need

0414-561 D3V2 radius block
0414-543 SSL washout control arm x 2

To be safe you need this version of the radius block for the shorter main shaft. You may be able to use the SSL radius block as well 0414-542 as there is a gap.

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01-29-2017 07:54 AM  4 months agoPost 16
iyoy

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Bacolod City, Philippines

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Bugcatcher

Hi, thanks for replying. It looks like I am going to leave to old flybar EXII s alone and go for a new kit Freya SSL II. I have another post for this.

iyoy

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04-03-2017 11:48 PM  81 days agoPost 17
iyoy

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Bacolod City, Philippines

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FREYA Evolution OP SWM SSLII Kit Build

Here is my progress so far...

iyoy

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HelicopterHIROBOHirobo Freya › EX2 SWM SSZ-111 to SSL FBL
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