Hey everyone, the new plastic framed Mikado Logo 700 is here. I got to see this machine in person in prototype form at Rotor Live earlier this year and from then on there was some sleepless nights until it was in my hands
I decided to do a build thread on this heli to let you guys see the new features and give you some insight on the build. Hope you enjoy it!
So this is Steve Hubert and I picking up our kits from Mikado USA in West Palm Beach. I was so excited to get this kit that I drove down 4 hours to get it....yep.
On to the build!
Mikado decided to take a different route when they designed the New 700. They made the frames in an Upper section and a lower section. The upper frames house the servos, motor, NEO and other electronics while the lower frames contains the ESC mount. As you can see the frames is really easy to assemble as it snaps together like the older frames and it held together with nuts and bolts. Mikado included a little threaded bolt to facilitate the installation of the nuts in the right side frame. You just push it through, lightly thread the bolt on, then pull it back into place and unscrew the bolt. The nut is firmly in place awaiting the screw.
Next you install the elevator and tail servo, then the front TT gear assembly, CNC bolt parts, and boom holder. Then you snap it together and put the screws in place. Once done it is solid as a rock but super light. ***Comes with Futaba/Savox splined Mikado arms for the servos in the kit***
Not much to them, you install the battery plate retainers (2), place the nuts in the frames like the upper frames, then screw then together. The Landing skids are next, normal Mikado install on these guys.Joining the Frames
Now you slide the top and bottom frames together and put the screws in place. Once done the frames is finished. Mikado chose this way to make it easier in crashes. If you break just the bottom frames, no need to remove all the electronics any more, just replace the bottom frames! Very nice idea to get you in the air faster...
Installing the Cyclic Servos
Mikado decided to include the silver screws that I typically replace with allen screws for consistency and a more firm mount on the older frames but this time I decided to use them. I was pleasantly surprised to see that Mikado BEEFED up the servo mounting spots and the stock screws held extremely firm. There is zero servo movement with the carbon plate installed (I supplied those and use them on every build). No worries at all on that mounting system.Main Gear/Main Shaft Install:
The new main gear is a different pitch than the older ones so the older pinions will not work. You have to purchase either a 13 or 14T pinion. For my setup (Scorpion 4530-500), I went with the 14T. The OWB IS NOT the same as the OWB from the Extreme series. It has a smaller mount and if you want to use the larger gear, you need to have the Extreme assembly. The main shaft is 14mm, like the XXtreme and the collar is beefy. Installing the pin for the tail drive gear is the same as how it was on the XXTreme but Mikado added a small piece of tubing that help facilitate the install. Nice little idea that works very well. Just take your time and follow the instructions.
Motor mount/Motor Install:
I chose to use the Scorpion 4530-500 and at the time of the build I did not have the 6mm shaft so I went with the larger XX gear and OWB assembly (not shown in pics, stock one is pictured). The motor mount is a two piece one just like the XX was and it aids in keeping the pinion aligned well with the main gear. Also helps with setting the mesh. All aluminum and held together with large bolts. Once the assembly is build, you slide it into the frames, set the mesh, bolt it down.
***Note*** When setting the mesh, you want to install the pinion on the motor shaft so that it slide but does not come off. Align the pinion with the gear and PRESS the assembly against the main gear, and tighten the motor mount bolts....all of them....this sets the pinion height. Now tighten the pinion grub screw down, then loosen the motor mount so that you can set the MESH. Find the high spot on the main gear and make sure there is ZERO lash at the high spot. DO NOT PRESS the motor up against the main gear, just make sure there is no rocking of the main gear/pinion combo at the high spot and tighten the motor mounts down. When done, there should be a little lash at the low spot but none at the high spot.***
Tail Rotor Assembly:
This is the new tail box by Mikado. When built you never have to worry about the mesh of the TT gears, and the boom and tail box are indexed so that you never have to worry about the tail being straight. The tail assembly is directly off the proven XXtreme so the build is straight forward and looks like a 450 sized hell's head when done
The tail fin is painted with a bright stripe for visibly as well.
I am sorry I did not get more pics of the head as I was building it but I got so engrossed with the head, I only had the final product to snap at the end
The head is all new and is a very nice, sturdy, well machined work of art. The tolerances and dead on and when assembled, it is smooth as silk. Head button s included as well which is very welcomed in my book.The VBAR Logo is etched on the head and makes it stand out nicely.
Boom and TT:
The TT design is the same but uses a different method to install the bearings. Instead of epoxy to hold the bearings there is a cool little heat shrink that you cut into eight pieces. You mark the TT with the correct distances, slide the bearing into place and then put the heat shrink on both sides of the bearing. When you heat the shrink, a glue comes out of the shrink and locks the bearings into place. Next epoxy the ends of the TT and install the screws. Then you oil the bearing rubbers and slide the TT into the boom. Goes in nice and smooth, no need to press. Finally install the boom, tail assembly and slide that into the frames and lock them down. Then build the Boom supports and tail pushrod and install.Swashplate:
This is the beefy XX swash and build so easily.
Install the Head and Linkages:
The head looks good on that machine!!! The linkages are a little different. The rear link os longer to accommodate the upside down elevator servo. No need to worry as it works well and the geometry is spot on.
Now the Electronics:
Mikado made a nice little oath to install the electronics inside the frames so the whole thing is neat when done. I used my YGE 160 and the NEO is mounted on the rear tray. The WR BEC is actually tucked inside the frames in a nice little pocked Mikado made. Works VERY well and keeps everything neat and clean.Finally the Canopy!
The new candy is slimmer, sleeker, and more functional. It comes with clear edge protector so you can cover the edges and not knock your canopy when taking it on and off.Screenshot of the U/I sensor data:
I hope you enjoyed this thread, the new 700 is a BEAST. I set this heli up like I did my XXtreme and it is a much more agile and fast heli. Ot does things at 1900-2000 that I needed 2200 on the Extreme to do! I actually have to slow it down a little as it just does not need all that extra power, it is just nimble and agile by design.
You will enjoy this heli for sure, get one!
Team MikadoUSA 480XXTreme, 550SX, 600SX, 700XXTreme, 800XXTreme!!